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Ok.. I have a serious question...

What kind of things should I be looking at if I want to get a motor built to cope with 25+ psi?

RB26 top end, RB30 bottom end...

Maybe get some shares in Garrett or HKS.

You'll be going through turbos quick enough. :P

I live in Sydney.

I drive around with the doors locked and windows up.

if someone asks me a question about my car, I take one of 2 options.

1.) 6000rpm, side step clutch, get the fcuk out of there.

2.) get out of car with clublock and beat them till they can't remember who or where they are. and therefore my car is safe as they will not remember the conversation.

What if it's a hot lookin bird..

That's the problem with coupes,

the back seat is f"n useless.

Might convert my GTS-T into a panelvan one day.

Bitches in the front, bitches in the back...

What if it's a hot lookin bird..

That's the problem with coupes,

the back seat is f"n useless.

Might convert my GTS-T into a panelvan one day.

Bitches in the front, bitches in the back...

if it's a hot looking bird, I take the 6000rpm get away option.

if the wife finds out, there'll be more than the car to lose.

:lol:

coupes blow.

get a 4 door.

B)

hey guys. im building an rb30de. and i bought a rb20det gearbox thinking that it would bolt right in and use the same speedo drive and keep the same speedo reading cus the gearbox numbers are the same.

its to go in to an r33 with a rb20e. and i just found out yesterday that the rb20det box is mechanical drive for the speedo and the r33 is electrical drive. is there anything that i can do to make this work my speedo? or will it all just plug in? i havnt taken the motor out yet. i just want to have souluitions to any problems i may have.

thanks,

geoff

hey guys. im building an rb30de. and i bought a rb20det gearbox thinking that it would bolt right in and use the same speedo drive and keep the same speedo reading cus the gearbox numbers are the same.

its to go in to an r33 with a rb20e. and i just found out yesterday that the rb20det box is mechanical drive for the speedo and the r33 is electrical drive. is there anything that i can do to make this work my speedo? or will it all just plug in? i havnt taken the motor out yet. i just want to have souluitions to any problems i may have.

thanks,

geoff

This is an RB30 engine thread, and you are asking a gearbox question. :)

Oh OK, you use the top (electronics) half of the the R33 speedo drive with the bottom (mechanical) half of the RB20DET drive so it fits in the gearbox. Do a search for the R32 speedo drive in an RB25DET gearbox, the thread has pictures. You are basically just doing the reverse.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

it still has something to do with rb30.. the title is r33 rb30 conversion.. so it is related to me. it was mainly just to get a quick and definatant answer

thanks sydneykid :(. iv heard alot of great stuff about you and your advice is always great :)

Fantastic thread guys keep it up.

You've given me the confidence to take the plunge and just collected my donor RB25de today.and I'm on the hunt for a rb30e bottom end as we speak.

So I'm going for the rb25 de head rather than the GTR jobbie.

IT's from a 93 Laurel so I was wondering if it would have the same cams as the r32 or r33? the body is e-gc34 so which would it be as I'd prefer to use the cams from the r33 as the tommei list in the rb30_dohc.pdf(which is excellent by the way) show that these have the largest lift and curation of the standard cams.

Can I use the injectors from the RB25de and afm or will I need det ones as I couldn't find a flow rate for the 25de injector listed (If there is apologies but the whole thread is alot to retain)

I'm going for a mild tune only at the mo untill the whole thing has run in for a couple of thousand K then go for a R32 GTR twin turbo set-up.

I'm still learning the turbo side of things at present so I'm hoping this will do the job for me. Are the twin turbos from a standard GTR the ceramic coated ones and are these good enough for a target of around 400bhp (I'm not greedy and the car this is going into is no spring chicken)

Also I noticed today that the 7 second gdz1la GTR skyline here in NZ has the the cambelt tensioners oposite as per the rb30 block without moving the tensioners. Is the N1 spec block like that?

hi, on the engine mounts for the rb30. im using the r33 rb25de intake pleninum. i just want to confirm what i need to do to make the motor clear my bonnet as i think its going to be a close fit.

do i use rb25de engine mounts? and lower it by how much on each side? will i get to keep my strut brace? or is it easyer to just redesign it to fit? i did a search but i keep getting differnt answers.

Can I use the injectors from the RB25de and afm or will I need det ones as I couldn't find a flow rate for the 25de injector listed (If there is apologies but the whole thread is alot to retain)

RB25DE injectors are only 270 cc = 324 max hp (flywheel)

RB25DET are 370 cc = 444 max hp

guide only

I reckon if you're gonna build this engine it's worth aiming for 520 hp or 300rwkw.

It seems 480cc's or 550 cc's are the go.

High flowed or "re-manufactured injectors" are not recommended due to idle problems.

You need a late model engine management system that is capable of controlling full sequencial injection to overcome this.

I have a Haltech E6K which only supports group or semi-sequencial firing.

Good luck.

Edited by conan7772
hi, on the engine mounts for the rb30. im using the r33 rb25de intake pleninum. i just want to confirm what i need to do to make the motor clear my bonnet as i think its going to be a close fit.

do i use rb25de engine mounts? and lower it by how much on each side? will i get to keep my strut brace? or is it easyer to just redesign it to fit? i did a search but i keep getting differnt answers.

You read the DIY RB30 PDF at www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ ?

These measurements were accurate for us.

Just had to squash down a little the induction and fuel regulator.

Straight strut brace can't clear. Need the Greddy plenum or a new triangulated brace. Can't feel any difference in the front end without to be honest.

We sliced off the back plate on the main mount that lacks meat, continuously welded all round each web a new 10mm plate.

Then, lowered the engine in to mark the holes.

Edited by conan7772
You read the DIY RB30 PDF at www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ ?

These measurements were accurate for us.

Just had to squash down a little the induction and fuel regulator.

Strut brace cleared.

We sliced off the back plate on the main mount that lacks meat, continuously welded all round each web a new 10mm plate.

Then, lowered the engine in to mark the holes.

sweet as. cheers. do you have any pics of what you did?

woops i had passed over those on the pdf file. so 15mm on drivers and 12mm on passangers

how do you relieve the gearbox and center bearing mount as its suggested in the pdf.

cheers

sweet as. cheers. do you have any pics of what you did?

woops i had passed over those on the pdf file. so 15mm on drivers and 12mm on passangers

how do you relieve the gearbox and center bearing mount as its suggested in the pdf.

cheers

Sorry, don't know about the other mounts.

Edited by conan7772

Hi all,

Just was interested in what you all think about stickying a rb30 det turbo upgrade thread????

Thought it would be good to see some results posted up in a sticky section as this thread is way too long now to go through.

It'd be really interesting to see what power levels these rb30's are making!

Cheers

Hi all,

Just was interested in what you all think about stickying a rb30 det turbo upgrade thread????

Thought it would be good to see some results posted up in a sticky section as this thread is way too long now to go through.

It'd be really interesting to see what power levels these rb30's are making!

Cheers

sounds good to me!

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