Cubes Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet. That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there. Do remember 1bar through the gt35r will most likely have your injectors nearing their 'safe' 80% max on std fuel pressure. I believe Fatz RB26 thing made 270rwkw on 17psi running a stock rb26 ecu. I forget what it made after a tune. The 90 degree bend.. If it were me i'd simply drop a silicon 90degree bend on there. Then connect the silicon bend up to a piece of pipe that runs *from memory* at a max angle of 15degree's until it matches ic pipe dia. EDIT: Highlighted one paragraph to make it just that little bit clearer. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2079409 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet.That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there. Do remember 1bar through the gt35r will most likely have your injectors nearing their 'safe' 80% max on std fuel pressure. I believe Fatz RB26 thing made 270rwkw on 17psi running a stock rb26 ecu. I forget what it made after a tune. The 90 degree bend.. If it were me i'd simply drop a silicon 90degree bend on there. Then connect the silicon bend up to a piece of pipe that runs *from memory* at a max angle of 15degree's until it matches ic pipe dia. don't wanna pull the head off yet so i think i'll stick with the na valve springs for a while! What do you think about the GTR fuel pump? When i take it to Shaun to get tuned i'm just going to tell him to tune it to within a safe range for my injectors sake, i'll honestly be happy with 250@the rears for now (so i have time to upgrade gearbox and diff)! Do you know if the wastegate on the xr6t is like the rb20 ones where it lets more boost out with things like exhaust etc or will it stick to 6/7psi? Cause i was thinking i might not even worry about a boost controller! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2079445 Share on other sites More sharing options...
R31 POWER Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Sif take head off to do valve springs.You can do it with a regulator and air compresser with a fitting in the spark plug hole. conan7772 you have a rb25det actuator on,put a rb20det one on as it will hold around 10.5psi/11psi with no boost controller.I fiddled with a rb20det and rb25det one on my car and boost comes on quicker with the rb20det one Silver top rb20det i ment Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2079469 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 R31 Power... I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet.That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there. Ash, 250rwkw through an rb20 gearbox...hrmmm BANG!! Mine broke with only 176rwkw. BUT.... Mine making 176rwkw was making the same amount of rear wheel tractive effort (rear wheel torque) as freebaggins 313rwkw Rb25DET. Torque kills gearbox's. If I were in your position.. lol.. I would throw a 14psi adjustable actuator on it from ATS for ~$120 and tune it to that... and take it easy. But still 6-7psi should make an N/A linear feeling 190rwkw without too much trouble. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2079787 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky30 Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Ash, you dont need to take the head off to do the valvesprings, dont make a simple job harder by ripping the head off. What A/R is the exhaust housing, is it a total stock XR6 turbo with internal gate? arent these 1.06 housings, may be a bit laggy, be interesting to compare it to .82. let us know the results. did you sort your oil problem out? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2079969 Share on other sites More sharing options...
daisosasen01 Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 (edited) Hello All I have been following up on this thread since it was in the 110's. I've talked to a few people about sending me a rb30 block plus parts. But so far nothing. Parts I am looking for. - Rb26dett head complete with intake and exhaust manifolds. Injectors, cam's, and valve covers. Camm gears, sensors etc. - Rb30 series II block with all internals and externals. Sensors, pistons, rods, pully's, covers etc. AC, PS Essentually I should be able to bolt the head to the block and get it to work. That's how complete I want the head and block to be. Anyone able to help? Thanks Gus P.S> I have tried in the classifieds/ marketplace section...no dice. Edited April 7, 2006 by daisosasen01 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2080008 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Sorry ppls... I need to make myself clear. I said in not so many words..... IF you have to rip your head off to get to the bottom of the oil issue THEN drop the valve springs in as one would be silly not to take the opportunity to make ones life easier. Low km RB26 valve springs can be picked up cheap. From $100 to $200, if the heads off to check out oil restrictors or bore/piston condition (hence your major oil breathing problem) why not drop them in. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2080143 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craved Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Hello All I have been following up on this thread since it was in the 110's. I've talked to a few people about sending me a rb30 block plus parts. But so far nothing. Parts I am looking for. - Rb26dett head complete with intake and exhaust manifolds. Injectors, cam's, and valve covers. Camm gears, sensors etc. - Rb30 series II block with all internals and externals. Sensors, pistons, rods, pully's, covers etc. AC, PS Essentually I should be able to bolt the head to the block and get it to work. That's how complete I want the head and block to be. Anyone able to help? Thanks Gus P.S> I have tried in the classifieds/ marketplace section...no dice. i picked up a complete SII RB30E for $350 on the R31skyline forums http://www.r31skylineclub.com/ only thing i didnt get was the as for the RB26, keep looking or go to a wreckers and pick one up. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2080577 Share on other sites More sharing options...
StockyMcStock Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Cubes i did a map trace earlier tonight - in 2nd gear it is hitting load point 17 at 5200rpm. what does that mean? it's a Q45 AFM too. bloody thing better not hit the ceiling on me before i get the power i want out of it! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081229 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 It means... your right... ~200rwkw possibly a little more. Darrens hits load point 17 and according to the datalogit airflow values is very very close to jumping in to load point 18, his is making 218rwkw. Mine... Hits load point 17 but by 4500rpm+ has dropped back up to load point 16. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081256 Share on other sites More sharing options...
StockyMcStock Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 but if there's only two more load points for him to go into, and it's currently making 218 at the rears, how do people say that the Q45 runs out of resolution up near 400rwkw? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081417 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Load points have nothing to do with the map reference scaling. If you were to run a standard AFM load point 17 may be 5.1v. Drop the Z32 or Q45 on there and voltages may drop to 4.2-4.3v, so you have go tmore head room but to use it you have to adjust the map reference. The reason the RB30's run in to trouble on the std map early is due to making so much more power earlier on in the rpm range. As rpm increases the map references allows you to make more power. If that makes sense. Those last 2 cells may allow another 50rwkw or so. One will only know when they tune it. When Darren was running the stock rb20det map reference he hit load point 20 at 200rwkw, the rb20det's are easily able to make over 200rwkw on the standard map as they make it higher in the rpm, so in a way think of the map reference as a reference for torque, the more torque you make the higher the load point you use. Less torque higher rpm = more power. Got off track there but anyway, once Darren dropped the rb25det map reference in there that gave him a little head room he was able to dial in another 1psi and make 218rwkw. Hope that made sense, I can't be buggered reading over it. lol Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081465 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR-Ben Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 On that note Joel. What is going to happen with my RB20AFM in the 4" pipe.. ? Will it max out at double what it normally would? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081669 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Unsure if it would be double.. Only time will tell. Hows yours going anyway??? Up and running yet? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081673 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 R31 Power... Ash, 250rwkw through an rb20 gearbox...hrmmm BANG!! Mine broke with only 176rwkw. BUT.... Mine making 176rwkw was making the same amount of rear wheel tractive effort (rear wheel torque) as freebaggins 313rwkw Rb25DET. Torque kills gearbox's. If I were in your position.. lol.. I would throw a 14psi adjustable actuator on it from ATS for ~$120 and tune it to that... and take it easy. But still 6-7psi should make an N/A linear feeling 190rwkw without too much trouble. have already started worrying about my gearbox and diff, they will definitely be the next things i do! Do you think that its possible though for the 14psi actuator to max out my injectors though, was thinking i'd just hook up my boost controller then it can be tuned to 10/12/14 psi! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081675 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Ash, you dont need to take the head off to do the valvesprings, dont make a simple job harder by ripping the head off.What A/R is the exhaust housing, is it a total stock XR6 turbo with internal gate? arent these 1.06 housings, may be a bit laggy, be interesting to compare it to .82. let us know the results. did you sort your oil problem out? ye it is the 1.06 housing, not really too worried about the lag, the things great off boost and will hopefully improve my fuel economy too! I guess it will be a good comparisson to yours once tuned! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081682 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR-Ben Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Unsure if it would be double..Only time will tell. Hows yours going anyway??? Up and running yet? Yeah have it all running. Just have to get it on the dyno and see if it can be tuned up all right.. Waiting on my wheels etc and have been fitting my wide bodykit, A LOT of work in this.. regretting it as I would have been driving it if not for that.. but will look mean when it's all on Sounds awesome though, can't wait. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081686 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 So is anyone out there able to help me out with these things? 1.) So far i've worked out i need a new dump pipe (different flange!) 2.) New oil and water lines (not sure where to get these from or what exactly to ask for!) 3.) 90 degree bend welded on the inducer/cooler pipe so it faces the front of the car for the standard cooler piping. (figure this would be better than using a 90 degree bit of silicone hose) 4.) do i need to rotate the front housing on the exhaust housing?????? 5.) The other thing i have noticed today is that i'm running the standard afm rubber pipe and its too small at the end where you hose clamp it to the front compressor, so what do people do in this situation running bigger turbo's with an AFM? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081687 Share on other sites More sharing options...
conan7772 Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 15psi = 294rwkw yet with 3250rpm full spool?Almost sounds too good to be true, if thats really the case stick with it as a GT35R will be laggier and will require more boost to make that power. What fuel are you running? Turbo specs? What fuel pressure are you running? fuel pressure: 37 psi on idle 68 psi on full throttle ps:Fuel pressure gauge is down in front of my shifter. Lost traction big time whilst looking down. I'll try and choose a less busy road next time ! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081730 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 fuel pressure:37 psi on idle 68 psi on full throttle ps:Fuel pressure gauge is down in front of my shifter. Lost traction big time whilst looking down. I'll try and choose a less busy road next time ! So your running a 2:1 fpr vs the std item that raises fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi increase in boost? Interesting. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/159/#findComment-2081809 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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