Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 RB20DET
Gear Ratios
1st - 3.321
2nd - 1.902
3rd - 1.308
4th - 1.000
5th - 0.759
Reverse - 3.636
Final - 4.300

RB25DET
Gear Ratios
1st - 3.214
2nd - 1.925
3rd - 1.302
4th - 1.000
5th - 0.752
Reverse - 3.369
Final - 4.363

Z32 300ZX
Gear Ratios
1st : 3.214:1
2nd : 1.925:1
3rd : 1.302:1
4th : 1.000:1
5th : 0.752:1
Final Drive : 3.692
Reverse : 3.369:1

Z31 300ZX
1st : 3.324
2nd : 2.077
3rd : 1.360
4th : 1.000
5th : 0.751

VL Turbo
Gear Ratios
1st: 3.580:1
2nd: 2.077:1
3rd: 1.360:1
4th: 1.000:1
5th: 0.760:1
reverse: 3.636:1

RB25DET gear ratio's are hard to come by, I found these on SAU some time back.

Strange enough they are the same as a reliable Z32 300ZX source.

Is any one able to confirm the RB25DET gearbox ratios?

For those that want to fiddle...

http://racingdownloads.com/racing_software-22.html

R32 RB20DET Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2777 (to 3723)		  -2991 (to 4009)
 2 -> 3		 -2030 (to 4470)		  -2186 (to 4814)
 3 -> 4		 -1531 (to 4969)		  -1648 (to 5352)
 4 -> 5		 -1566 (to 4934)		  -1687 (to 5313)

RB25DET Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2607 (to 3893)		  -2807 (to 4193)
 2 -> 3		 -2104 (to 4396)		  -2265 (to 4735)
 3 -> 4		 -1508 (to 4992)		  -1624 (to 5376)
 4 -> 5		 -1612 (to 4888)		  -1736 (to 5264)

VLT Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2729 (to 3771)		  -2939 (to 4061)
 2 -> 3		 -2244 (to 4256)		  -2416 (to 4584)
 3 -> 4		 -1721 (to 4779)		  -1853 (to 5147)
 4 -> 5		 -1560 (to 4940)		  -1680 (to 5320)

Z31 Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2438 (to 4062)		  -2626 (to 4374)
 2 -> 3		 -2244 (to 4256)		  -2416 (to 4584)
 3 -> 4		 -1721 (to 4779)		  -1853 (to 5147)
 4 -> 5		 -1560 (to 4940)		  -1680 (to 5320)

For those that are interested I've made a dyno spool comparison of the mine, sky30's and Ash's.

The reason mine jumps up sharply is it basically spools up instantly at that rpm, if shaun had loaded the car up at a lower rpm ~1500rpm it would have been a slightly better indicator of how it spools in the real early rpm.

I haven't attached bl4ck32's 218rwkw run as he doesn't have a print out. :)

His little plain bearing MQT/Dynamic Turbochargers RB20 highflow makes 218rwkw on 16psi and it spools ever so slightly better than the vg30det turbo shown here.

I think if ash were to get an ebc on to his nice tight little actuator he may bring full spool in slightly earlier, which actually would look too bad.

Dial some more boost in and it should hold power a little better than the .82. BUT it is difficult to tell as sky30 is making a shiet load more power/airflow at that rpm so ash's power curve very well may follow sky30's rapid nose over.

I really do believe this rpm/airflow/velocity point is the limitation of the standard exhaust manifold.

Especially when you see blokes like 88sillouete or what ever his alias is running a nice exh. manifold, stock head, td06-20g and he flicks it to 7200rpm no problems.

Ash,

At 100km/h yours is making a bee's dick more power than a healthy R33 RB25DET running 13psi to make a total of 200rwkw, usual mods pfc etc.

80km/h you are down 18rwkw compared to the rb25det where as sky30 is the same..

So essentially... Sky30's RB30DET GT35r .82 will feel the same at 80km/h as an rb25det running the stock turbo at 13psi. :wub:

Impressive when you look at it like that.

60km/h... who knows, most likely they will be the same, if not the rb30det will have the upper hand as 60km/h is some where around 2000rpm.

If one was able to get the 1.06 holding power until 7000rpm I think it would be a rather drivable street car with a downlow (up to 3000-3500rpm) stock rb25det power delivery that simply becomes more and more insane as rpm's increase. I hope that makes sense if you visualise the power curve. :D

good work Joel, looking at the spool comparison makes me think something is definitely not quite right with my car!

Shaun did also say that i need more tension on the actuator as he said it seemed to be a bit loose.

Nice work Gav! Cars looking good!

R32 RB20DET Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2777 (to 3723)		  -2991 (to 4009)
 2 -> 3		 -2030 (to 4470)		  -2186 (to 4814)
 3 -> 4		 -1531 (to 4969)		  -1648 (to 5352)
 4 -> 5		 -1566 (to 4934)		  -1687 (to 5313)

RB25DET Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2607 (to 3893)		  -2807 (to 4193)
 2 -> 3		 -2104 (to 4396)		  -2265 (to 4735)
 3 -> 4		 -1508 (to 4992)		  -1624 (to 5376)
 4 -> 5		 -1612 (to 4888)		  -1736 (to 5264)

VLT Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2729 (to 3771)		  -2939 (to 4061)
 2 -> 3		 -2244 (to 4256)		  -2416 (to 4584)
 3 -> 4		 -1721 (to 4779)		  -1853 (to 5147)
 4 -> 5		 -1560 (to 4940)		  -1680 (to 5320)

Z31 Gearbox

Gear Change  RPM drop (change @6500)  RPM drop (change @7000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
 1 -> 2		 -2438 (to 4062)		  -2626 (to 4374)
 2 -> 3		 -2244 (to 4256)		  -2416 (to 4584)
 3 -> 4		 -1721 (to 4779)		  -1853 (to 5147)
 4 -> 5		 -1560 (to 4940)		  -1680 (to 5320)

Wow, the memory isn't that bad, the VLT box has the extra 213 rpm drop on the 3 --> 4 change compared to the RB25 box. In fact the VLT box has wider spacing between all gears, except 4 --> 5 which is irrelevant anyway.

:) cheers :wub:

Joel, id be very interested if you could do a similar dyno camparison on torque readings between mine, yours and ash's cars.

Ash, What RPM do you get ful boost at??

I wouldnt be too dissapointed, a mate of mine runs the 1.06 housing on his VLT and doesn't get full boost till around 4200RPM.....

Hey guys,

Just on that subject of when boost comes one at what rpm, I have a r32 GTR and I put a gt35r with a tiny .63 rear housing on it with ext gate, I was after early spool for easy street driving and a more useably torque curve. With 15 psi and 310 rwkws it comes on boost earlier than the standard twins did and holds great boost and a firm curve to 8500 rpm.

When I had decided to go for such a small housing I was warned by many modders that I would get pressure and heat problems due to the housing being to small but all it has been is an excellent street setup.

Oh yeh and thnx for the ratios guys I will most definatly be keeping my gtr diff. :D

Cheers.

p.s My mate is as we speak setting up his rb30 bottom with 34gtt head for his drfit 32gtst he also is running ext gate and a .63 housing will let you know how it goes.

Hey guys,

Just on that subject of when boost comes one at what rpm, I have a r32 GTR and I put a gt35r with a tiny .63 rear housing on it with ext gate, I was after early spool for easy street driving and a more useably torque curve. With 15 psi and 310 rwkws it comes on boost earlier than the standard twins did and holds great boost and a firm curve to 8500 rpm.

When I had decided to go for such a small housing I was warned by many modders that I would get pressure and heat problems due to the housing being to small but all it has been is an excellent street setup.

Oh yeh and thnx for the ratios guys I will most definatly be keeping my gtr diff. :D

Cheers.

p.s My mate is as we speak setting up his rb30 bottom with 34gtt head for his drfit 32gtst he also is running ext gate and a .63 housing will let you know how it goes.

Sounds good, What RPM are you making full boost at? And is the engine a RB20 or RB26??

Joel, id be very interested if you could do a similar dyno camparison on torque readings between mine, yours and ash's cars.

Ash, What RPM do you get ful boost at??

I wouldnt be too dissapointed, a mate of mine runs the 1.06 housing on his VLT and doesn't get full boost till around 4200RPM.....

i'm getting 15psi by 3900rpm, i love this motor and turbo, driving home from work last night (1:30am) was about 4degrees, i just put it into thrid from second and put my foot down and the thing just shoves you back in your seat and pulls so had to the rev limiter!

I wouldnt be too dissapointed, a mate of mine runs the 1.06 housing on his VLT and doesn't get full boost till around 4200RPM.....

Just out of curiousity why do people run such big rear a/r's surely a ~.8 would be far more suitable unless its a drag/street car.

Just out of curiousity why do people run such big rear a/r's surely a ~.8 would be far more suitable unless its a drag/street car.

When an offer presents its self that is too good to refuse (1k) and is internal gate that is basically bolt up.

Just out of curiousity why do people run such big rear a/r's surely a ~.8 would be far more suitable unless its a drag/street car.

i probably ideally wanted a .82 but at the moment you can't get a 35/40 with an internal gate (wanted this for the more stocky look) but when the 35/40 came up for sale at a really good price with the 1.06 housing i couldn't refuse and to be honest i haven't regretted it for a second, it is very streetable with the torque the Rb30 produces and i'm only going through 10L/100kms of fuel now due to not it being on boost all the time! Just need some new diff gears now so that i can use first and second a little more!

Edited by mr_rbman

Hi guys just finished my 25/30 conversion, car idles fine on cold start then once she warms up idles less them 400rpm any ideas why?? Then when driving her she stalls when i stop, at idle, i think she is running a bit too lean, i do have a pfc and a hand controller but im not sure how to change the idle, afm or injector duty cycle, should i do this or leave it to an expert? My specs are as follows r32 GTS4 rb25 non vtec head 3L rb30 bottom end, pfc, gtr fuel pump, stock afm, gt3540 turbo, tial 44 external wastegate, stock injectors and tb etc.

Edited by FOOLBOOST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...