Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine doesn't cope well in peak hour traffic on a 40degree day with the a/c on.

When stationary for what feels like an eternity the engine temps slowly creep up. Once I begin moving even 5km/h engine temps drop rapidly.

OR... If I sit idling it at 1500rpm it keeps cool.

At idle the stock viscous fan just doesn't seem to suck enough air.

The ford fans have a high low setup which if setup correctly works well.

i have an on/off davies craig 16 incher on my VL with 25/30, the VL cooling system is arguably worse than the skyline ones i believe. i don't even run a shroud on mine, but have a 3 core VL turbo radiator. i have it set up so that it switches on at 85 degrees, and i've NEVER seen temps go above 89 even when fanging it up hill. does fine in hot, stop start traffic, temps never go above 86 in that case. seems to pull an absolute arseload of air.

When I had mine rebuild/ported polished I was told it had 35mm inlets and 29.5mm exhaust valves. When it got home I measured them and they were what I was told. Which I thought was strange as......... According to the R32 engine manual:

R32 RB26 - 35mm inlet, 30mm exhaust.

R32 RB25DE - 34mm inlet, 29mm on the exhaust.

I remember one measured his r33 rb25det valves and they came up as 34mm inlet and 29.5mm exhaust, I've measured an rb26 head that had 35mm inlet, 29.5mm exhaust yet another bloke has measured his rb26 head and told me they were 34.5mm inlet and 30mm exhaust. :P

There does seem to be a little variance. Probably just the tools used. A poor tradesman always blames his tools. lol

FYI, i've made a circut to run my 16" fan, however i have not used it yet. so it is not proven...

Anyway, My thoughts were to run the fan when it is required, and run half speed (or less) when not triggered by the ecu. The plan was to try and smooth out the heat cycles that would happen with the conventional on/off set up. Now to speed up the warming process, the 1/2 speed function will not happen until the fan has been triggered by the ecu when the engine reaches operating temp after start up.

Anyway, i'm useing a change over relay for the center of the system. As well as a normal relay. A diode (one way electrical valve) a fuse (for saftey)and to get the half speed function, a ballast resistor.

I'll post a picture of the circut later..

i need to find an ecu temp trigger, or make one!

Any thoughts on my project? :P

Mine doesn't cope well in peak hour traffic on a 40degree day with the a/c on.

When stationary for what feels like an eternity the engine temps slowly creep up. Once I begin moving even 5km/h engine temps drop rapidly.

OR... If I sit idling it at 1500rpm it keeps cool.

At idle the stock viscous fan just doesn't seem to suck enough air.

have you thought about changing to a rb25 fan, i have read many times that they draw more air than the rb20 fans

just an option.

Hi Guys,

I'm now a proud owner of an RB25/30. Got my baby back about 2 weeks ago and am now running her in. I've just got the standard 25 turbo in atm but I'm very impressed with the torque. Dan from Elite Racing Developments did a great job. Here's some pics.

post-28461-1170064757.jpg

post-28461-1170064779.jpg

woot congratulations nathan. Finally got it all done hey. Feels alot better then the 25 hey?

Oh got some pics of my rb25/30 also with the new dry sump setup.

post-12828-1170065294.jpg

post-12828-1170065367.jpg

post-12828-1170065757.jpg

post-12828-1170065793.jpg

post-12828-1170065816.jpg

post-12828-1170065846.jpg

post-12828-1170065863.jpg

post-12828-1170065893.jpg

post-12828-1170065939.jpg

Edited by r33_racer

Thanks mate.

But i gotta give credit to SK for giving me the low down when we first started all this. Would have taken us longer to do it right if he hadnt said anything. Cheers Gary.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...