CEF11E Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 well it took me 3 weeks but I have just finished reading this whole thread. damn what a novel... I had a bit of a busy weekend and the RB30det is well and truly under way. I pulled the RB30E out of the R31 and stripped it down and removed the head. Stupidly i forgot to loosen the harmonic balancer before pulling the motor. the engine has been rebuilt recently there are hone marks in the bores, pistons look like brand new no carbon, head gasket and timing belt aftermarket and a new tensioner so happy times! no piston slap and all in really good condition. I am going to use the bottom end as is. the head RB25DE R33 is also in excellent condition and will be used as is. the springs are the same as R33 turbo ones. I have drilled and tapped a new feed for teh VCT. a M10 x 1.25 thread. I have also blocked the original gallery with a M8 x 1.25 once it was drilled and tapped and used locktite. I am using the 149 teeth dayco belt with 2 tensioner s in the standard position. things i need to know is. 1. where the hell have u guys got your oil supply for vct fittings? every car parts place i went to did note have 1/8 npt fittings. not even pirtek! 2. What is the best way of getting off the harmonic balancer and flywheel bolts? I am guessing a rattle gun? also what size is the ballancer nut? 26mm spanner JUST to small. 28mm to big? is it metric? 3. what is the best way to remove the current engine and transmission. I removed the gearbox and motor from the R31 in one piece with a crane and it wasn't to hard. but i did cut the front of the car off first am i better off removing the gearbox before i take the motor out? I am guessing putting it back in in one piece will be a hell of a lot easier. I am hoping to have it all in and started in a month. so far it has been plain sailing. this is the biggest project i have undertaken yet and i am taking my time, my power goal is only 250rwkw. this is the maximum the turbo will supply anyway and I think that is enough in a responsive r32 with torque. any help appreciated cheers dudes! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323038 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dahtone Racing Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 whos done the low low tensioner setup ive got an issue with my belt tension its seems really really tight ive got two tensioners in the stock position and the dayco 149 tooth belt Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323285 Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEF11E Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 I a about to do the same setup. are you using an rb26 head? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323312 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dahtone Racing Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 nah 25DE im f*king spewing Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323317 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 CEF11E, I bought a 27mm socket and used the breaker bar; it was on damn tight I can't see you removing it without the motor being in the car with a gearbox hooked up. I have used a rattle gun in the past; worked well but it does have to have some balls behind it. When I dropped the RB30DET in I removed the rb20det with gearbox attached; bolted the gearbox to the rb30det and slid it in. This was done over a pit which made life a lot easier. Radiator was obviously out and had a piece of wood protecting the a/c condenser. 10mins max and the motor was in position. Ahh exciting times it was. 2GUUP, I've never ran with 2 down low but even with 1 low 1 high the belt is really tight to get on. Near impossible. If I were to do it again I would position the tensioner 1mm towards the centre more. To get mine on I have to position the cam belt with the lower tensioner loose and then slide the top tensioner on. There was no way I was able to slide the belt on with the tensioner already located in place. BUT once all on the belt still had a little too much slack which required slight pinching up. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323333 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 whos done the low low tensioner setupive got an issue with my belt tension its seems really really tight ive got two tensioners in the stock position and the dayco 149 tooth belt mate i tried it, as far as i'm concerned it doesn't work properly due to the belt being overtight. made all sorts of measurements and turned up a dummy pulley out of plastic to see if i could get an idea of what measurement would work with a 149 tooth belt and 30mm diameter seemed right. looked everywhere for that diameter tensioner but none of them were up to the load rating. suffice to say one tooth makes a ridiculous amount of difference to the pulley diam and a 150 tooth belt had so much slack that there was bugger all clearance left when it was tensioned. it was 'pain in my a$$holes...' even had the NSK bearing tech guys looking for me but they couldn't find anything either so in the end i went with the hi/low setup. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323340 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dahtone Racing Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 my belt is 25mm wide ive always been told if you can twist the belt 90 degrees the tension is correct i can only manage 45 deg from this belt people have done it so whats the GO some one help me out here Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323376 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ill_lh Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 hey guys does the rb25de neo head water/oil galleries line up to rb30 bottom end?? despite vct though coz im going to keep it... HELP!! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3323411 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRgeoff Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I've never ran with 2 down low but even with 1 low 1 high the belt is really tight to get on. Near impossible. If I were to do it again I would position the tensioner 1mm towards the centre more.To get mine on I have to position the cam belt with the lower tensioner loose and then slide the top tensioner on. There was no way I was able to slide the belt on with the tensioner already located in place. BUT once all on the belt still had a little too much slack which required slight pinching up. I think you mean 1mm further away from the centre to add a tiny amount of slack. Using the guide measurements mine is in the perfect location without having to tension the belt using one tensioner high and an idler low. When I install the belt I use a high tensile bolt instead of a stud and just locate the tensioner and start threading the bolt. Makes for less offset tension in the installation but the bolt does need to be well prepped with a quality thread sealer tape. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324017 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Yes I got it arse about. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324026 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRgeoff Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 hey guys does the rb25de neo head water/oil galleries line up to rb30 bottom end??despite vct though coz im going to keep it... HELP!! Mate, not everything has to be a massive drama so take it easy, think and do some more reading. Sure there is a lot to get through but it's worth it. spoolup is running a neo head so they must line up reasonably well. How about get a head gasket and overlay it to see if it will line up?? Take photos and post them up to add to the knowledge base while you are at it. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324027 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ill_lh Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Mate, not everything has to be a massive drama so take it easy, think and do some more reading. Sure there is a lot to get through but it's worth it. spoolup is running a neo head so they must line up reasonably well.How about get a head gasket and overlay it to see if it will line up?? Take photos and post them up to add to the knowledge base while you are at it. cheers mate.. ive decided to go with an injected turbo 202 instead.. lack of funds.. should still get about 400 hp at the wheels though... im going to keep my s2 block though to do this in the near future... thanks for all your input, AWESOME thread guys!!!! keep it up!!! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324152 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliksem Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Guys quick question, my engine was built by Ricol Automotive and it looks like they've re-used the original RB30 oil pump. Since ive got the engine on a stand I figured I might as well bolt a new one up, but realise its too late to fit a crank collar. The RB30 oil pump from nissan is $1000 (just priced one) Can I fit an N1 pump and will it be ok providing I dont exceed 7k rpm? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324745 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 What have you done with regards to oil restrictors? The N1 pump with std restrictors is a bad thing. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324787 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 (edited) if you use an n1 oil pump, change the relief spring to a std rb25 one or rb20 one. Something that runs a lower relief pressure, the n1 pump will provide way too much pressure and you will suffer like cubes said. Edited September 3, 2007 by r33_racer Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324835 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliksem Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Only standard restrictors unfortunately Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3324863 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAMR33 Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 (edited) Only standard restrictors unfortunately If you haven't got litres of oil in your catch can you don't really need the restrictors, just over fill the sump a bit to ensure a good supply of oil. People have spoken of the n1 pump being brittle and more prone to damage by bad harmonics, so the n1 would probably break before the rb30 pump. A few people on this forum run rb30, rb25 without a crank collar, I think the rb30 pump will be fine for 7000rpm or maybe just put an rb25 one in, due to it having less age on it. Edited September 3, 2007 by BAMR33 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3325003 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliksem Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 well I spoke to ricol, they said the rb30 pump was fine which is why they didnt replace it, I just thought since the motor was still on the stand i'd consider the option of changing it thanks for the replies Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3325046 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriano Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 As you arent runnign a collar, i would leave the rb30 pump, as they dont seem to have problems in the standard car Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3325097 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla33 Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 What have you done with regards to oil restrictors?The N1 pump with std restrictors is a bad thing. what size restrictors do you recommend? Ive got an N1 pump with collar & ATI balancer, I havnt got any restrictors yet. I have removed the old ones. why change the relief spring? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/275/#findComment-3325106 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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