Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Den001,

The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too.

That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range.

To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

thats good power but for that ammount of boost, i think there is somthing wrong

I tend to agree, a 3L with a gt34r running over 30psi and only making 360ish rwkw?

Are you sure all 6 cylinders are firing?

cheers guys.

firstly fuel car is running shell v - power 98ron pump fuel.

second. it has 2 in tank tomei fuel pumps wired seperately to two relays.both relays are working and both pumps are working

we checked that plus fuel pressure is 3.5 bar too.

graphs i will put up when matt @ the racing line finally gets the car to run..

2.17 bar is not what i will run

the car is mapped for 1.5bar 590bhp/540lbs @ 5500rpm @ the fly

also 1.8bar 620bhp/585lbs @ 5500rpm @ the fly..

the graphs look like the evo graphs, torque and bhp follow each other to the top, car makes boost from 2800rpm climbs quick and steep from 3500rpm.redline at 7000

you are all right for that boost i would have expected 700bhp @ the fly and maybe 600lbs torque.cant understand why bhp is the same as torque.

when i get the graphs i will see more but at 1.8 bar it made 500bhp @ the treads which he says is 620 @ the fly..

bernie. any comments from you guys or tuners would help.

the electrical problem has got all the tuners baffled here.

if this helps the tuner, if you set the fuel map up say from 1000-5000 rpm and the afr goes from 15 at 1000rpm to 11 at 5000rpm, then let the revs drop back to idle. and do it again this time without altering anything at 1000rpm fuel is 20 and as you rev it up it goes up and down reaching 30 in some cases.>>>???? bernie

Edited by rockabilly

26psi.. 500rwhp so around 373rwkw + given its a 4wd dyno so saps just a tinny little bit more power out of the final figure.

Its close enough bah.. Only a dyno figure.

I'm sure it feels fast and will break 3rd gear if your not carefull. lol

What spec cams are you running?

With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT?

Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

Edited by Alf
With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT?

Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

the bulky inlet cam is the major part of the vvt, so you would lose vvt by removing it.

If you want it to look like an RB20, then find an rb25de and put all the rb20 dress up gear on it.

It is the cam gear on the inlet side that operates the VVT - so removing it or the camshaft itself will stop the VVT.

You can run a std cam in the inlet with a std cam gear or adjustable one ( so you can use the STD rb20 cover etc ) but you will lose the vvt option.

Den001,

The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too.

That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range.

To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

i understand and agree with you totally, but look at the boost its running, thats big boost, for that amount of psi going thru the motor, you would think that the turbo would come into its own and it would be in its efficiency range by far..... have a look at the clip again... listen to the turbo ramping and then listen to the revs of the motor, there is not real much positive gain from the forced induction.... this is what i mean..

im not bagging the motor, it makes power, but the way it makes it is doesnt seem right, to me it seems like its a massivly decompressed motor obviously making the power but look at the boost its eating, it revs way to slow, it eats 2.1bar boost and all on 98 pump fuel.... this is the characheristics of a decompredded motor...

im building a 30/26 now, with 8.8-1 comp.. and i tell you when it comes on boost it will come on... and it will be a t04z with a 1.0rear.... and the aim wil be to make it rev like this machine....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caoHNZFufHU

this is how the engines should be set up... rb30 have in my eyes a very good rod ratio... 1.8-1. if you car rev out a 26 so hard there is no reason why you cant do it to a 30... especially with a twin cam head...

i understand and agree with you totally, but look at the boost its running, thats big boost, for that amount of psi going thru the motor, you would think that the turbo would come into its own and it would be in its efficiency range by far..... have a look at the clip again... listen to the turbo ramping and then listen to the revs of the motor, there is not real much positive gain from the forced induction.... this is what i mean..

im not bagging the motor, it makes power, but the way it makes it is doesnt seem right, to me it seems like its a massivly decompressed motor obviously making the power but look at the boost its eating, it revs way to slow, it eats 2.1bar boost and all on 98 pump fuel.... this is the characheristics of a decompredded motor...

im building a 30/26 now, with 8.8-1 comp.. and i tell you when it comes on boost it will come on... and it will be a t04z with a 1.0rear.... and the aim wil be to make it rev like this machine....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caoHNZFufHU

this is how the engines should be set up... rb30 have in my eyes a very good rod ratio... 1.8-1. if you car rev out a 26 so hard there is no reason why you cant do it to a 30... especially with a twin cam head...

Considering its only a 600hp turbo 650hp isn't a bad figure. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...2R_714568_1.htm

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost!

Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...