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Long motor includes bottom end and head and all internal parts but no accessories.

short motor is same as above minus the head, includes internal parts inside the block and sump.

It's obvious what you need for the det conversion.

ahh cheers thanks man jst what i needed to know

Does anyone know if you can use the High energy 7L sump and still retain the factory stone guard in a 32 GTST?

Also noticed that the drain plug is on the opposite side to factory.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=140593

Edited by Alf

anyone had their crank nitrated? The shop rang me and asked if i wanted it done since the whole bottom end is getting blueprinted. Cost me $900 though! I want a tough realiable engine and am cutting no corners using argo rods, jun oil pump and ati balancer. Ive been told the block is weaker then rb26's. What can i do to strengthen it? Resin fill? Can someone shed some more light on this?

cheers

anyone had their crank nitrated? The shop rang me and asked if i wanted it done since the whole bottom end is getting blueprinted. Cost me $900 though! I want a tough realiable engine and am cutting no corners using argo rods, jun oil pump and ati balancer. Ive been told the block is weaker then rb26's. What can i do to strengthen it? Resin fill? Can someone shed some more light on this?

cheers

All RB cranks are nitrided standard.

Cheers

Gary

Hey all,

Just want to know what you guys did for the oil squirters did you put them in or not?

Bitch of a job, not all blocks will accept the threads and you can't tell until you start machining. S1, S2, Commodore, Skyline and turbo blocks, makes no difference, about 1 in 10 will take squirters. So we stopped fitting them about 60 RB30's ago, we machine oil squirters into the conrods, works perfectly. For heavy duty applications (over 750 bhp) we ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts.

Cheers

Gary

Is the $900 quote just for the nitriding ? or all the machining ? ( bore, hone, crank grind etc )

anyone had their crank nitrated? The shop rang me and asked if i wanted it done since the whole bottom end is getting blueprinted. Cost me $900 though! I want a tough realiable engine and am cutting no corners using argo rods, jun oil pump and ati balancer. Ive been told the block is weaker then rb26's. What can i do to strengthen it? Resin fill? Can someone shed some more light on this?

cheers

Hi Gary

When you say " we machine oil squirters into the conrods " are you referring to what is used in the OEM rod. A oil feed hole in the rod that sprays up under the crown fed from the big end ?

Bitch of a job, not all blocks will accept the threads and you can't tell until you start machining. S1, S2, Commodore, Skyline and turbo blocks, makes no difference, about 1 in 10 will take squirters. So we stopped fitting them about 60 RB30's ago, we machine oil squirters into the conrods, works perfectly. For heavy duty applications (over 750 bhp) we ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts.

Cheers

Gary

Could someone explain the process of nitrating for me? If all rb cranks come like that standard then why the heck they suggested it? Since the rb30 crank is fairly old, could it do with a re-doing? I was quoted 900 for nitrate alone and 2100 for bore, hone, grind etc.

I also got my pistons ceramic coated. far easiler then trying to get oil squiters i was told.

guys this is probably the best posting i have seen on anything technical..

anyway im about to start a build on my 31 with a 25/30 and wanna make 300 kw atw...

can someone do me a huge favor as i get confused with trying to follow the posts and give me a guide on parts to use... i have a series2 rb30 in my car so the bottom end is started but wat else do i need to achieve this without it melting down on me...

cheers...

Could someone explain the process of nitrating for me? If all rb cranks come like that standard then why the heck they suggested it? Since the rb30 crank is fairly old, could it do with a re-doing? I was quoted 900 for nitrate alone and 2100 for bore, hone, grind etc.

I also got my pistons ceramic coated. far easiler then trying to get oil squiters i was told.

Damn that sounds really expensive!

Hope they are not taking advantage of your ignorance :D

Does anyone know if you can use the High energy 7L sump and still retain the factory stone guard in a 32 GTST?

Also noticed that the drain plug is on the opposite side to factory.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=140593

You can order the sump to gave the drain plug on the other side.

I made a custom order for mine to have two "-10" fittings for the oil returns (one on each side), one oil temp sensor fitting and something else i have forgotten. The mods were done perfectly and placed in the idea places.

guys this is probably the best posting i have seen on anything technical..

anyway im about to start a build on my 31 with a 25/30 and wanna make 300 kw atw...

can someone do me a huge favor as i get confused with trying to follow the posts and give me a guide on parts to use... i have a series2 rb30 in my car so the bottom end is started but wat else do i need to achieve this without it melting down on me...

cheers...

first page there is a pdf you can download. covers allot of things.

Hoang, they are absolutely ripping you off mate.

Nitriding is a process of introducing elements through heat and proximity to create a different alloy near the surface of steels in order to prevent crack propagation and sub surface crack nucleation. It can never wear our as it is now alloyed in the structure. Redoing it is basically useless as the nitriding resists further nitriding. To remove it you need to machine away the surface material.

My bottom end machining, cleaning ready to assemble and head skim with full zero balance cost $1400.

gt35, low mount cast manifold, external gate... possible? don't think so but i like to dream. keep them cops eyes at bay.

If you were running a GTR head then the old HKS manifold for the T04R means that would woudl likely be able to do this dependant on the turbo flange as the hKS manifold is a T4.

Not sure about R34's, but on the 33's the hks manifold and GT30R or GT35R will hit the engine mounts.

Matt had problems because of the turbo size is bigger then the T04E that the kit normally runs. Its strange because the turbo he runs (3076) will fit on an R32 with RB20 (Legend01) and has been used on several RB30s. So the extrea deck height of the block will most likely get you ouf of troubel with clashes with engine mounts

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