R33 Rb30 Conversion

[MattsR33]

Yes if going 26/30 then use the 33 GTR engine loom and PFC, you will also need all the appropriate sensors off the 26 (water temp sender is different, need the intake temp sensor, different coils if yours is a series 2 25 etc etc).

It will cost a pretty penny but if you're prepared to pay, then by all means go for it. Keeping your 25DET head is the cheapest/easiest way to go and the stock throttlebody/plenum are good for nearly 500rwhp.

Thanks very much for that bubba! Clears up alot of confusion for me. Will let you know how i go with the 26/30 into GTST. Cheers.

[bubba]

No worries, all I ask for is vids of skidz

[Proximity Motorsport]

the download in the first post is corrupt file. I tried on two different computers and same error messages. Can someone please fix it thanks

[TiTAN]

RB30_DOHC.pdf

one RB30 PDF file.

[rich81]

Not sure if I've missed it somewhere along the way.... but is it absolutely essential to get an RB30ET block, pistons, rods and crank?

Could you get away with an RB30E block and drill the oil/water lines, and get 3rd party pistons and still use the RB30E rods and crank?

If so... makes finding a suitable block a lot easier if all you have to do is tap it for the oil and water feeds.

I have an RB25DET on the way and want to do this conversion.... just trying to figure out the cheapest way to go about it, and whether I need to keep ANYTHING from the RB25DET bottom-end (e.g. ancillaries, accessories like power steering and aircon).

Then again, if an RB30ET motor can be had relatively cheap, would probably save time stuffing around... how much do they go for these days, and how available are they? Wreckers etc.....

[Proximity Motorsport]

thanks

[TiTAN]

Not sure if I've missed it somewhere along the way.... but is it absolutely essential to get an RB30ET block, pistons, rods and crank?

Could you get away with an RB30E block and drill the oil/water lines, and get 3rd party pistons and still use the RB30E rods and crank?

If so... makes finding a suitable block a lot easier if all you have to do is tap it for the oil and water feeds.

I have an RB25DET on the way and want to do this conversion.... just trying to figure out the cheapest way to go about it, and whether I need to keep ANYTHING from the RB25DET bottom-end (e.g. ancillaries, accessories like power steering and aircon).

Then again, if an RB30ET motor can be had relatively cheap, would probably save time stuffing around... how much do they go for these days, and how available are they? Wreckers etc.....

have you even read the thread? it covers everything you have asked.

[joe blo]

what sump do i use for rb25-30 in a r33 gtst? do i use rb30 or rb25? wont be lowering the engine coz ive got a greedy plenum going on at same time.

and will it run properly on standard rb25det computer? its a fresh motor so will need to run it in but im concerned it might go into rich and retard too often and not allow the rings to bed in from being too rich. (read from another guy selling a rb25 block that it didnt bed in properly coz of running too rich) i have a wolf3d computer but dont have enough to tune it and buy injectors and crap right now and only wanna tune it once and i dont have big turbo either so just wanna get it running on standard ecu if it will work.

thanks guys. wanna put my sump on asap so wanna find out about that. been doing this conversion for ages. need some last info

does anyone know how much the rb25 tensioners are? i do use 2 rb25 tensioners for the timing belt right?

[TiTAN]

it will run on the stock computer but don't expect it to run brilliantly. the larger capacity will push the ecu map into the safety zones of the standard maps so you lose a lot of ignition timing and it runs rich.

you can use either the RB25 sump (remove the 3 fins that stand up as the crank will hit them) or the RB30 sump (no mods required)

my engine uses two tensioners but some people don't like that method.

[chuckie]

Hi Guy`s just a few RB 30 oil pump & block part`s i got in,

this goes in Block ,Value Reg Set ,part number 15241-40f00,

oil pump RB30 Valve Regulator part number 15132-42L00,

hope this will help some one out ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

[vlv8calais]

hey there guys, i read the forum and i got lost along the way, i am in the process of a rb25/30 build. i have just reassembeld my r32 rb25 na head. standard valve springs and cams etc. for my 30 block, i plan to use the standard pistons, use chromolly top rings, and turbo piston rings, with standard rods and crank, acl race bearings and big ends.also use a factory rb 26dett head gasket. and i do not plan to get the head or block plained as they came out of good running cars. i plan to run a single turbo application with sard injectors, a custom front face plenum, top mount turb etc. i plan to use a microtech ecu or similar.

was wondering if anyone has done a build along the same lines. i am constantly confused with comments about these builds. i want info from people who have done a 25/30 build themselves, not random guesses or opinions. basically i want to know if this setup would work.

is there any modifcation to galleries etc? i think i know a brief amount of what im doing, i just want a proffesional opinion. thanks guys

[GASCO123]

still cannot download pdf file from item 1.

Can anyone help?

[TiTAN]

N1GTR, could you attach this file to the first post?

RB30 DOHC Guide. (Click me)

[Craved]

N1GTR, could you attach this file to the first post?

RB30 DOHC Guide. (Click me)

Link Added - thanks for that Steven

[urtwhistle]

Hey guys, I have posted this a few times in the past but I thought some 1 here may be able to answer it. so please excuse my copy and paste

I was hoping I may be able to ask for some advice regarding setting up standard Neo cams on a bastardized RB30DET that I have recently built and dropped into my R34.

When I built the motor I had a momentary lapse of reason and never fitted my adjustable exhaust cam gear. My timing is clearly out, but all timing marks line up and the VCT is working also (marks appear dodgy and I don't trust them). I intend on dialing the cams in properly once and for all with a mag base dial indicator but to do that I need to know the correct STANDARD settings for a RB25 Neo.

standard RB25DET NEO Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 8.7mm ex

Do you know what degree's in relation to TDC the intake cam is set to or @ 0.040" of lift? Either should get me the correct position and then I can move the exhaust position while sitting on the dyno.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

[DYNOBUSTER]

Hey guys, I have posted this a few times in the past but I thought some 1 here may be able to answer it. so please excuse my copy and paste

I was hoping I may be able to ask for some advice regarding setting up standard Neo cams on a bastardized RB30DET that I have recently built and dropped into my R34.

When I built the motor I had a momentary lapse of reason and never fitted my adjustable exhaust cam gear. My timing is clearly out, but all timing marks line up and the VCT is working also (marks appear dodgy and I don't trust them). I intend on dialing the cams in properly once and for all with a mag base dial indicator but to do that I need to know the correct STANDARD settings for a RB25 Neo.

standard RB25DET NEO Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 8.7mm ex

Do you know what degree's in relation to TDC the intake cam is set to or @ 0.040" of lift? Either should get me the correct position and then I can move the exhaust position while sitting on the dyno.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

I used a R34 neo head and when I put in the stock cam pulleys and a rb30 block the stock timing marks are a bit wierd at aligning but I just had it tuned and it's running fine now on all standard cam pulleys you say My timing is clearly out, but all timing marks line up and the VCT is working.... if the timing marks line up as close as you can get them the engine will work fine

Edited July 27, 2010 by DYNOBUSTER

[demon33]

bump

[rb2634datto]

I wont bother going in to the XR specs as we are comparing apples and apples.

Specs from here!

---- EL & AU Standard Ford 4ltr

157kW @ 4900 rpm.

357Nm @ 3000 rpm.

---- EL Standard Ford V8 5ltr.

EL - 165kw @ 4500 rpm.

EL - 388Nm @ 3000 rpm.

---- AU Standard Ford V8 5ltr.

175kw @ 4600rpm

395Nm @ 3000rpm

--------

VS Commodore Specs - From Here

---- Standard V6

147 kW @ 5200 RPM

304 Nm @ 3600 RPM

---- Standard V8 5ltr

165 kW @ 4400 RPM - 168kw for Series II -- wow

385 Nm @ 3600 RPM

Sorry to get a bit off topic peoples..

Oh and if you ask why a VS will blow away a EL.. Slap a Manual in the El and a Manual in the VS then watch the EL fly..

The Auto g/boxes in the Falcoons are geared extremly bad.. 80km's in first isn't to good.

If you ask why a VS Auto will blow away a EL Auto.. The Ford's gearing is a lot longer than the Commodores.

Slap a Manual in the EL and you will be suprised how it actually kicks the VS Manual's arse If you ever come up against a Manual EL you will notice how quick they are off the line without stalling it up.. A VS V8 has no chance against it and has to reel it in very very slowly.

that just shows that holdens are shIT

fords rock

[bubba]

Why reply to a 7 year old post with nothing useful to add?

Edited August 25, 2010 by bubba

[zebra]

I just wanna know how he rekons he fit a big block ford into an escort and also was able to fit 2 turbos....the big blocks barely fit in an XB falcon and also an rb30 in a datsun 1200....*facepalm* bloody kids