R33 Rb30 Conversion

[TiTAN]

Cheers bubba/kiwirs4t

Yup rod bolts are a must =) , looking at getting some more info though, with the VCT do i have to source the VCT solenoid? are they easy to install? or can i just run an external feed and just plug and play? (ECU and loom) apart from that the general rb25det conversion i cant think of anything else i could possibly run into as everything should just bolt up. (might have issues with my window wipers if i change ECU) - Dont drive in the rain =)

Yea ive meet the guys from Shreds before ,and im keen for them to dyno the car when its up and running however i had plans to go for a power FC but they are all about the lInk's thats for sure. As ill be running the car in for a good 5000kms im still going to run a factory ECu and map. Eventually ill make a goal of 300kw ODD but thats much later as i really only drive my car in the w.e and will take me a while to run it in saying that.

Cheers Again

Chad

dont blow the link computers off, vs a powerfc they are a massive improvement for not a lot more money.

[Traction_issues]

Bugger, so im thinking go with the R32 25 head as it will obviously be a hell of alot simpler plus i will be able to use the current RB20de for sensors and all ancillaries. What about the factory loom/Ignition coils/harness (RB20DE) ...is it much different to the r32 gtst loom and ignition system? would be gud if i can use as much as i can from the factory motor .

Sorry my run in period was probably a little far fetched. Yea im sure a drive up to Toupo would be sweet.

The Hunt for a new Head starts =) .

Cheers Boys - Your a Big Help

[r33_racer]

Possibly been covered before, but I just weighed a bare rb30 block with only welsh plugs and dowels in it and it came to 58kgs bang on. This block had an 87mm bore and had been decked atleast twice. So a std bore block would probably weigh a fraction more. Maybe 59-60kgs at a guess.

You could just round it up to 60 kgs for interests sake in case anyone has been wondering.

[Scando]

I'm up to page 330 of this thread so only 25 to go, woohoo!

I'm looking at doing this conversion but in a 240Z circuit car so weight is critical, mainly to make sure I don't upset the balance of the car. Anyway, I weighed a couple of things today and thought I'd post it up incase it's useful to anyone else.

RB30 bottom end, still had the oil in it, oil filter attached, auto torque converter plate attached ~ 120kg

RB25 neo bottom end, still had the oil in it, oil filter, oil cooler, altenator, harmonic balancer, a few extra hoses, no flywheel ~ 125kg

There's a few variables there but if you took the torque converter plate off the RB30 and all the extra bits off the RB25 I reckon they would be very similar in weight despite the higher block and longer stroke crank of the RB30.

Also, an RB30 complete except for altenator, flywheel & exhaust manifold was ~ 175kg.

Edited August 13, 2011 by Scando

[TiTAN]

if weight is a big issue, why not go with an alloy blocked engine instead? a 240 isnt exactly a big heavy car something like a 2.2L stroked SR20 would keep the weight down and danm near if not make it mid engined.

[Scando]

For the class I race in the only rules on engine are it must have the same configuration and the block must be made of the same material as the original engine. So cast iron block in-line 6.

Anyway, I'll finish reading the thread and then post up what I have in mind. Just thought the weights might be useful to others.

[Scando]

Hi all,

I've finally finished reading through this thread!

My plan is to build an RB26/30 to go into my 240Z I use for circuit racing.

What I want from the build is a very reliable 350rwkw with a smooth power delivery and the ability to make a bit more in the future if I can afford a drivetrain to stand up to it.

For reliability I want to limit revs at 7,000rpm.

For drivablity I want to run between 9:1 - 9.5:1 compression ratio and keep boost down to about 15psi.

I plan to run it on E85.

I've tried to make a fairly exhaustive list of what I need.

I already have a couple of complete RB30's.

I have a complete smokey RB26 on the way that'll I use the head and inlet setup off and any other bits I can and then sell off the leftover parts.

There's a few parts I'll be able to use that I've kept from my old L28 turbo setup. I've listed next to the parts on the list where I already have them.

Anyway, here's the list. I'd like to hear if there's anything I've missed or anything I should do differently to achieve what I'm after.

- Series 2 RB30 block crack tested, acid dipped, drilled & tapped for RB26 head studs, bored to 86.5mm

- RB30 crank crack tested, linished, grub screwed & balanced

- Crank collar

- King or ACL Bearings

- Standard RB26 harmonic balancer (or an ATI one if I see one cheap)

- Standard RB26 oil pump – new (or something better if I see something cheap)

- Spool Rods

- CP 9:1 RB30DET pistons

- Standard RB26 water pump

- Dayco 94407 timing belt with the one high, one low, tensioner setup.

- RB26 head crack tested, hardness tested, acid dipped, surfaced (take enough off to get compression ratio up to around 9.3:1)

- Standard cams, cam gears, valves, springs, etc with the seats re-done and spring pressure checked.

- Standard RB26 throttle bodies and inlet plenum

- RB26 ARP Head stud kit

- Block the rear oil gallery to the head and use a 1.5mm restrictor in the front gallery

- Extra oil drain in the back of the head plumbed directly to the sump

- Full Genuine Nissan RB26 gasket kit

- R34 splitfire coils so I don’t need separate igniters

- NGK BCPR7EIX-11 plugs

- Holley Blue lift pump

- Cumulator tank

- Rising rate regulator

- Twin 044 pumps or a single 1000hp aeromotive pump

- 1000cc ID injectors

- Ebay twin feed fuel rail if I go twin 044’s (if not will the standard rail do?)

- GT3540R with .82 exhaust housing (already have)

- Whatever T3 flanged externally gated manifold I can find that will work in my engine bay.

- Tial 44mm wastegate or bigger? Depends on the manifold design I end up with

- 4 inch dump into 3 inch straight through pipe. (already have)

- Haltech Sport 2000 ECU (already have)

- Large good quality intercooler (already have)

- Oil cooler (already have)

- Turbosmart Vee Port BOV

- Pod Filter (already have)

- Twin plate clutch (most likely a 2^nd hand OS Giken or Nismo, whatever comes up cheap)

- RB25 gearbox (most likely R34)

- Modified R33 tailshaft

- Patrol sump to fit the 240Z. Increased capacity, baffled, etc

- Modified Patrol oil pickup

- Intercooler piping, turbo feeds & returns, etc

Cheers,

Shane

[JonnoHR31]

ditch the rising rate reg. stock 26 reg will be much better. standard fuel rail should be fine.

[Gerg_R31]

scando;

grub screwing the crank isnt really a performance thing, its drilling out the press in bungs on the big ends of the crank, it helps with cleaning any sludge out of the crank from when people dont change oils often enough, or when the crank is ground it helps to clean any excess metal shavings out of the oil gallery, if the block is sludgey id say do it, and also get the front and rear main gallerie bungs in the block drilled to fit a 3/8 unc speedflow grub screw

cp pistons are a good quality piston, but what dome or dish volumes, piston to deck height, head gasket volume, head chamber volume did they use to give the rough rating of 9:1

also make sure who ever hones the block make sure they hone to suit the chrome moly rings, if they dont use the right grit stones the rings will fail pre maturely

you can still use the rb20/25 11mm head studs without needing to modify the block with a rb26 head

i'd also suggest getting the annular grove in the block side of the main tunnel, rb26 main bearings, rb30 main stud kit optional

(and i speak from personal experience working in a machine shop)

[Scando]

Thanks for the input guys

grub screwing the crank isnt really a performance thing, its drilling out the press in bungs on the big ends of the crank, it helps with cleaning any sludge out of the crank from when people dont change oils often enough, or when the crank is ground it helps to clean any excess metal shavings out of the oil gallery, if the block is sludgey id say do it, and also get the front and rear main gallerie bungs in the block drilled to fit a 3/8 unc speedflow grub screw

A friend I race against that runs a very strong 25/30 told me that the plugs have been known to pop out of 30 cranks. Very unlikely to happen at the revs I'll be pulling but he suggested it as a little safety measure that costs bugger all.

cp pistons are a good quality piston, but what dome or dish volumes, piston to deck height, head gasket volume, head chamber volume did they use to give the rough rating of 9:1

Part no. RS6610-3406-0 listed here: http://www.spoolimports.com/products/cp-pistons

I believe they have a 6cc dome & 0 piston to deck height. I will measure it all up and work out how much needs to come off the head once the head has been cc'd and I have the full specs on the pistons. It should be less than 20thou. Even less again if the head has been skimmed at all before.

also make sure who ever hones the block make sure they hone to suit the chrome moly rings, if they dont use the right grit stones the rings will fail pre maturely

I'll check with my machinist but I'm sure he'll know what to do. He does most of the turbo race engines in Southern Tas. He did the machine work for my L28ET which ran CP pistons. Pistons and bores looked new when we changed the head gasket after a couple of years of racing.

you can still use the rb20/25 11mm head studs without needing to modify the block with a rb26 head

I'd prefer to use the 26 studs. I know the dowels will still locate the head but it will cost me next to nothing to get the block drilled and tapped so I'd prefer have the studs fit the head properly.

i'd also suggest getting the annular grove in the block side of the main tunnel, rb26 main bearings, rb30 main stud kit optional

I'd be interested to hear more about the annual grove in the main tunnel. I saw a post from Sydneykid talking about it but didn't quite get it. Is it so you can get the oil feed to RB26 bearings which have more feed holes? I haven't pulled a 26 apart before. When the 26 arrives I'll have a look at the bearings and tunnel compared to the 30. Hopefully I should have a better idea then.

Thanks again, keep the advice coming, the more info the better

[JonnoHR31]

yer the 26 has grooved mains and 3 or 4 (cant remember) holes in the bearing to feed the crank, which means much better oiling through the mains and big ends.

[TiTAN]

- Extra oil drain in the back of the head plumbed directly to the sump

put one in the side of the head instead. like so (or even do both if you want to go that far however the drain at the rear of the head sits rather high and doesnt drain a whole lot of oil as a result)

while you probably saw it earlier in the thread, i have the 9.2-9.4:1 CR pistons and CR comes back at 9.3:1, saves grinding a whole heap of meat off the head to bring the CP pistons up to the desired CR

ARIAS

Suit RB30/26

p/n= AP332104

10.6cc dome top

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm).

COMPRESSION RATIO 9.2-9.4

Suit RB30/25

p/n= AP332105

13cc dome top

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm).

COMPRESSION RATIO 9.5-9.8

[Gerg_R31]

4 holes (i googled images)

and google images also shows the grove machined into the rb30 block being used for the spool rb34

and yeah the pistons that say a certain compression ratio shit me a little as it can be very misleading to those who have little clue, i.e a customer that came into my workshop once "oh how expensive were the pistons that you used to get a 10.5:1? they must be custom made" (nope they just have a 10cc dome)

but i guess with the arias that say you'd get between this and that kinda say "this is a rough guide"

oh and if you locktite the grub screws in the crank, they wont come out. though with the hole being horizontal to the crank spin it would be even more un common for them to come out. i've seen the end result of mallory sticks coming out when people weld them vertically to the crank spin instead of horizontally

[Scando]

put one in the side of the head instead. like so (or even do both if you want to go that far however the drain at the rear of the head sits rather high and doesnt drain a whole lot of oil as a result)

Thanks, I reckon I'll do both. There are two guys I race against running 25/30's and both had issues with excess oil going into the catch-can initially so it's something I'd really like to get right straight up if I can.

while you probably saw it earlier in the thread, i have the 9.2-9.4:1 CR pistons and CR comes back at 9.3:1, saves grinding a whole heap of meat off the head to bring the CP pistons up to the desired CR

I was keen on CP pistons because I had them in my L28 and found them to be a great product and the price is fantastic at the moment. I'll definitely keep the Arias option in mind though, I saw your dyno graph and the way your engine delivers the power is exactly what I'm after. I'll see what the head cc's up at and go from there.

[Scando]

4 holes (i googled images)

and google images also shows the grove machined into the rb30 block being used for the spool rb34

and yeah the pistons that say a certain compression ratio shit me a little as it can be very misleading to those who have little clue, i.e a customer that came into my workshop once "oh how expensive were the pistons that you used to get a 10.5:1? they must be custom made" (nope they just have a 10cc dome)

but i guess with the arias that say you'd get between this and that kinda say "this is a rough guide"

oh and if you locktite the grub screws in the crank, they wont come out. though with the hole being horizontal to the crank spin it would be even more un common for them to come out. i've seen the end result of mallory sticks coming out when people weld them vertically to the crank spin instead of horizontally

Thanks very much for that, I understand why it's done now. I'll definitely go with the RB26 bearings at get that done, cheers.

[sriver killer]

Over the years a few guys have asked me to post up some pictures showing the engine mount redrilling required to fit the RB31DET under the R32GTR bonnet in the R32GTST. So here we go;

Driver's Side

Passenger's Side

quick question for you guys. what brackets are these?

Ive recently mounted my 30det into my r33, and unfortunately my plazmaman is too high at the front.

haven't had a really good look but a 12-15mm drop seems to be required.

I am yet to compare the engine brackets between 20/25/30, any handy differences between the three (running std r33 alloy brackets)

my two choices left are make subframe spacers or re-drill the alloy brackets

[JonnoHR31]

use whatever mounts suit the car, so r33 in your case and re drill the holes as shown

[TiTAN]

the ones shown there look like GTR mounts to me.

[bubba]

the ones shown there look like GTR mounts to me.

They're R32 GTSt brackets/mounts, very similar to VL.

RB26 (aka all the 4WD mounts) and a lot different due to front diff and axles.

[deep_space]

the rb26 mounts are chunky aluminium brackets