Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If everything runs to plan my RB25/30 will be complete this weekend. Last night bolted to top part of the RB20DET plenum onto the bottom part of the RB25DE plenum. Had i got look at it and noticed that on the runners of the RB25DE, the water jacket that runs alongs the plenum has a bung in the end of it, whereas the RB20DET has a nipple. Do i have to drill and tap this and pit a nipple in it, or can the hose be ran as where?

Sorry to ask the same question again...kinda hoping that someone may have since stumbled accross the info im after :confused:

What is the weight of the std RB30 rod, also the piston weight (separate weights pls)

Is there any difference between the R31, VL series I & II rods, and other than Argo and Carrillo are there any other manufacturers of RB30 rods.

Reading the early pages of the thread it seems that eveyone is running prep'd std rods, assuming 7,500rpm what is the SAFE limit of these puppies, figures of 350rwkws seem to be thrown around provided tune is close to the mark. Whatever the rule of thumb figure is i imagine that takes into account the lighter forged pistons ppl are running:confused:

Sorry about all the questions. :Oops: and yes i read the forst 35 pages of this thread last night :(

got my eagle 4340 chromoly forged h-beam rods today, they are a work of art!!! THere are a few mods that need to be done to accomodate them but they are nice and they are a better price than argo or carillos....i'll post a pic!!!!

stock rod= from memory its been a while since i weighed them but i think they were 525 grams.

the eagles are 590 grams or something and are rated at 130hp per rod!!!

got my eagle 4340 chromoly forged h-beam rods today, they are a work of art!!! THere are a few mods that need to be done to accomodate them but they are nice and they are a better price than argo or carillos....i'll post a pic!!!!

stock rod= from memory its been a while since i weighed them but i think they were 525 grams.

the eagles are 590 grams or something and are rated at 130hp per rod!!!

Have you checked the thickness of the big end on the rod to make sure it fits the width of the big end journal on the crank? You should also test an RB big end bearing in the rod for entrapment. :)

Hi S13drifter...

thanks for confirming that the eagle rods are heavier than stock. I was told this a while ago and asked the question but no one knew for certain.

i just hope that they will be bloody worth it in the long run!

and i hope the extra weight doesnt affect things too much in terms of making power :Oops:

SK i think thats where these rods are modified... The RB30 rods are actually Chev 6" small block rods ??

YEah they are the right width as they have been machined to take nissan gudgeons at the little end, so the little end bush is now 21mm instead of 22.78 that a chev is... and the big end requires the crank to be ground around 35 thou i think.... i haven't measured it all yet cause i only got them today, but due to the grinding i dont think they will take the nissan bearings rather the chev ones im unsure untill i look at it all or maybe even another bearing like a speciallised type from clevite 77 ect... and yes i have no doubt they are chev 6 inch small journal rods but if the shoe fits!!!

I have seen these used in another build ie. another rb30 but not twin cam head... they are slightly longer than stock and require the use of a metal head gasket ( not my best friend but will still work) of about 40 thou or 1mm to obtain an optimal quench of around .45thou!..

Cheers, Daniel

I think you will find that they are basically 6.017" VG30 rods (RB30 is 6") with the wider big end and bushed for 21 mm gudgeons (VG30 has the bigger 22 mm gudgeon). The Chevy rod (being for a V8) is offset to allow for the shared big end journals. It is possible that Eagle are machining a Chevy rod, but I reckon the VG30 is a better starting point.

Good to see Eagle make a "small step for them" and a "large step for us". They are a good rod maker, you should be happy with the results.

As for weights, weigh the pistons and rod together and compare that with the standard piston and rod. I think you will find an advantage there. :)

As for weights, weigh the pistons and rod together and compare that with the standard piston and rod.  I think you will find an advantage there. :)

Yeh was thinking that but if i dont need the rods for the added strength they offer, i want everything as light as possible...no point having rods capable of 450rwkw if im only making 350rwkws, especially if it means paying more and having extra weight....is there a gaping hole in my logic?

I dunno if it's a gaping hole, but personally I'd prefer to have that extra tolerance headroom on the rods, rather than getting to 340rwkw and wondering when something may or may not let go. :rofl:

Ability to rev slightly harder/faster Vs Peace of mind. :)

I also have a question about aftermarket rods.

Has anyone tried or heard feedback on Crower rods.

They make them for the rb30 http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3007

Also been considering Arias forged pistons. http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....products_id=528

Are there any other things I should be asking in regards to the above parts?

SK- My own RB31DET has 268 inlet and 272 exhaust both with 10.5mm lift.

What kind of power do these cams make?, is it ok for a daily driver?

You are no doubt aware that RB25's have hydraulic followers and that you would be limited to ~256 degree cams with ~9.2 mm lift to retain the VVT. This means no change in valve springs is neccessary.

What power is possible with the above cams mentioned?.

PS: I have all the support systems etc..

when you guys are making the RB30DET's from the RB25DET's are you adapting the RB25 side mount oil cooler ?

Apparently the rb30 has a one way valve in the way instead of a proper bush that the rb25 uses to pass the oil to the oil cooler which is cooled by the cooling system??

My RB30DET is going to be modded to accept the oil cooler as oil temps in RB30DET's is definatly something that needs to be watched.

Anyone else done this or know anyone to do it with their RB30DET Hybrids ?

Im just gunna fit the grex kit ive got to cover the oil issue (only really need it if you wanna do some track work)

As for rods...well ive asked this question before....decide what you want the car for. I set my limit at 350rwkw. Std rods, ive been told, will hold. I couldnt justify spending another $1800 - $2000 on top of the $5500 ive already spent on the rest of the motor, just to push it past the 350 limit.

It is a RWD car, and i can already see huge traction problems...Id rather spend the extra dosh on tyres and suspension mods to get the 350rwkw to the ground first :)

when you guys are making the RB30DET's from the RB25DET's are you adapting the RB25 side mount oil cooler ?

Apparently the rb30 has a one way valve in the way instead of a proper bush that the rb25 uses to pass the oil to the oil cooler which is cooled by the cooling system??

My RB30DET is going to be modded to accept the oil cooler as oil temps in RB30DET's is definatly something that needs to be watched.

Anyone else done this or know anyone to do it with their RB30DET Hybrids ?

Just need to fit the Skyline part from another RB block so that the adaptor seals.

I have done this. I have a HKS oil cooler with remote filter mount etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...