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take it over the other side mate, thats why they give you such a big hose. Keymaker33 is right, thats the one i was on about. just cut in the middle with sidecutters and put t piece in, then run the hose over to your controller and then from controller to wastegate. viola.

put cable ties or clamps on everything so it looks/is secure, if you lose boost through a leak it will affect your fuelling as your teeing off the fuel system's signal. Its not hard but just do it right.

********* edited by Beer Baron. not adding anything mate. please refrain from throwing the boot in as tempting as it may be. enough people have already explained what the problem is, and how to fix it. the insults don't help. ***********

u idiot, if u leave the hose disconnected ur running unlimited boost!!

no wonder the boostgauge is off the scale... connect the hose to the hose between the throttle body and BOV

LOL the dude dusn't know, no need to call him an idiot.... The picture you first circled where you had a massive (IS THAT WHERE?) The answer is yes its easiest to get to and its a vaccume pressure hose so it'll be ok. Make sure you have the bleed valve or whatever your using pointing in the right direction aswell. And then leave the boost controller closed completely cos its a time bomb at the moment.

Open the rest of your car up as in full exhaust pod and all the little things the maybe turn it up to 10 or around that, when you get your ecu then go even more until then dont be guessing with motors cos it can cost you big $$. I'm sure alot of people here have learnt the hard way... you dont want to do that unless you have money falling out of your pocket... if you do can i have some? lol

LOL, thanks guys. I've made the connect and yes now its boosting to lnly ~7 PSI so thats all sorted.

I'll take her for a drive tonight and make sure its performing as it did with the stock cooler otherwise ill need some suggestions on how to check for vac leaks.

*Money grows on the tree in the backyard. Unfortunately the birds at it all.

*Money grows on the tree in the backyard. Unfortunately the birds at it all.

Hahaha must be one of those rare 'mint' trees I've been hearing about. But you can only pick em when they're ripe, otherwise it'll just turn out to be a forgery. hahahaha

*Money grows on the tree in the backyard. Unfortunately the birds at it all.

Yea umm... the only money tree's growing in backyards are MARYJANE plants.... but if you really do have a money tree or a mary jane plant at least give us some seeds... :ninja:

!! SHARE THE LOVE IN SAU !!

this is a message from your friendly moderator. the next person to point out this guys mistake, or call him an idiot get's a warning. he already knows he ballsed up the installation. help the guy solve his problem if you like. if you don't want to then just read and don't post. simple :laugh:

I apologise for my harsh comment, but please, people that buy turbo cars and that even THINK for a single second that they are going to do the modding themselves should know something as simple as this.

Accepted mate. I did know about running unlimited boost. I just didnt know where to connect the controller to. Should have used some common sense.

Anyways, the car SEEMS to run a little slower but im starting to think its not, because the cooler has acted like a buffer and i dont feel the boost kick anymore.

Anyone comfirm that theory?

Edited by N13Astra

some people say you get a bit more lag with a cooler on, but im not sure i beleive that. ive done a few and am yet to notice. I usually do cars that have already got exhausts etc so maybe your still hanging on that restriction and have just increased the inlet tract, which would cause lag i guess. you are definitely right that you lose a bit of response fitting a large intercooler. before anyone says its not that big, have you ever compared it to a stock one? they are about 6X the size including end tanks and extra piping too.

are you talking slower in general or slower boosting time from 0 > +7 on the gauge measured in seconds?

The cooler is 600x300x75, so about 4x bigger in length than stock. I've g-teched my car when it was stock and got 134kW, but ive yet to do it with the cooler.

I THINK it is just as fast but it doesnt feel like it because its lacking the "kick" it used to have, so i wont know until i g-tech it again. Its definately caused lag, approx. 500-800 rpm extra.

Time for exhaust and dump pipes.

Edited by N13Astra

get a front pipe and leave the dump standard if you like, thats wot i did in my case.. and the midrange has improved and the note at high RPM is way niccerrr.. iv got a from dump -> 3inch front pipe -> 3.7inch rest through. I get 10psi on my "hi boost mod" and pulls hard to the redline :) iv got only a stock cooler so yer..

get a front pipe and leave the dump standard if you like, thats wot i did in my case.. and the midrange has improved and the note at high RPM is way niccerrr.. iv got a from dump -> 3inch front pipe -> 3.7inch rest through. I get 10psi on my "hi boost mod" and pulls hard to the redline :) iv got only a stock cooler so yer..

Its best if you change the stock dump pipe as it is very restrictive. It'll give you a much better pull through the rev range.

I've found this out when changing my own exhaust. I took some comparison photos in this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=144283&hl=

Its best if you change the stock dump pipe as it is very restrictive. It'll give you a much better pull through the rev range.

Thats excactly right! If you leave the stock dump pipe its being restricted regardless so for under $150 even under $100 these days you can get a dump pipe which is the #1 mod i personally think anyway...

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