Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ceffy Bangs the limiter most days when Im driving and especially at the track when drifting, the RB20 loves limter!!!

As for durability, I seen a horrible Non turbo R33 Auto at the Drag tag burnout pit last nite, and he sat on the spot in first gear for about 3 minutes popping on the rev limiter. CONSTANTLY. The Aircon belt popped within a minute but he kept going. Sounded terrible.

Ceffy Bangs the limiter most days when Im driving and especially at the track when drifting, the RB20 loves limter!!!

As for durability, I seen a horrible Non turbo R33 Auto at the Drag tag burnout pit last nite, and he sat on the spot in first gear for about 3 minutes popping on the rev limiter. CONSTANTLY. The Aircon belt popped within a minute but he kept going. Sounded terrible.

Bite me - the car is nice - the driver sucked hahahah BTW its a turbo... And i popped the belt within 15 seconds, Its breathing a hell of alot better after the hiding i gave it last night :laugh:

the rev limiter is there in a safe place to stop you making melted steel out of ur motor. i have seen/driven many a car bouncing continuously off the rev limiter. Look at a typical drift meeting at barbs. For a good 150m we are smashing limiter up the hill in 3rd and yet to break anything. stop being so weak, get out there smash some limiter and scare some old people :laugh:

agree 100% if your not smashing the limiter ur not tring hard enough!

Machine Gun Limiter Pfc Style!!!!!

The Rev Limiter is a Guide so is the speedo, To reach the end of a dial is a goal. Once there you will never look back!

Seriously most Jap cars the red line is under stated by about 1500 rpm, eg compare Nismo dash cluster to stad cluster for a GTR, std readline at 8 grand

Nismo around 9.5 to 10 mark.

The under testing by Nissan would do a similiar test flat chat for days on end til the engine blew up to simulate increased engine wear. So driving that hard will stress the engine and increase engine wear hich if done on a regular basis leaves things open for things to fail.

Looks like I'm the minority here :laugh:

RB26's cost a fortune to rebuild though so I'm not fussed.

No seriously i dont think you are. If you are hitting a limiter say 1st to 2nd in a drag race, provided you've got traction, you must be losing momentum, so from that aspect its counter productive. Unless your Roy and your doing some MC work:laugh:

Wah, wah, wah...throttle control this, durability that. :)

I use a lot of limiter in first and 2nd gear as i need every last rpm so that when i shift i dont fall out of the powerband.

LOL...anyone that has seen (or heard :D ) me coming onto the straight at Sandown knows that i hit the limiter a bit. Its not intentional and i would rather not be doing it.

I even have multistage shift lights so i know the revs im pulling. But if you back off you lose momentum and the whole throttle control thing...provided its not pointless wheelspin you just have to wait that brief moment for road speed to equalise with rpm...then you just shift up :(

Plust the things revs out so quick when comign out of slow 2nd gear corners, sometimes you are jsut too busy with the steering and keeping the thingon the blackstuff to worry about shifting up before you are out of the corner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...