Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the dyno results, pretty pleased but i think there is a little more in it.

The differance is GREAT though.

Here are the B4 and after graphs.

B4 (red) = Previous exhaust and K&N pod

After (blue) = New exhaust and BMC pod

Power: (Average of about 20-30rwkw gain throughout the mid range)

post-1811-1170752892.jpg

Torque: (Over 1000N of tractive torque gained at 122km/h >_< )

post-1811-1170752928.jpg

Need a new boost controller as the factory solinoid is unable to keep the boost steady with the wolf controlling it :) . So once this is done, i will get a final tune. Boost drops to about 16psi at peak, but is a little wavey all the way through.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!

Picked it up today and boy did i enjoy it :dry:

The delivery is very smooth, but sharp/fast. Definately noticed the differance in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, the rev limiter just comes on so quickly :D , can't wait for DECA and the coming cruises.

SS8 Gohan: I truely beleive at least 90% of the gain is from the exhaust, but i have seen other cars just change pods to BMC and gained about 3-5rwkw across the curve. BMC filters are top quality and aren't cheap, apparently they are used in the F1 cars, they have great flow and filter very well.

Jetdat: Very interesting!

As you know i am using the smaller brother (gtrs) so that would probably explain the steep curve. But i also have tomei poncams and head porting, which is probably why i am making the same power and more usable power; as the power is bought on earlier and is held longer. Not sure how much boost you are running but mine peaks at 18.5psi, then tappers down to 16psi buy the time it makes peak power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/#findComment-2888913
Share on other sites

yeah i think the cams make a difference but smaller turbo also gives the curve some steepness..

cams are next on my list so hope to get improvement once installed..

look forward to some 1/4 mile times from yours and mine.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/#findComment-2888920
Share on other sites

BNC filter setup it awsome.

Its a sealed unit...flow really well and allow you to duct straight from the front bar...

Al who did u get it from, I spoke tot the BMC dist. not long back...he had to order it in and I never called him back. PM the details man...or talk to you at DECA.

Cheers.

KJ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155139-my-new-re-tune/#findComment-2890249
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...