Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an exhaust temp gauge to fit and just wanted some opinions on the best location for the sensor, I've currently got a CES stainless split dump with HPC coating...so really didn't want to touch that., but then again I want the temperature sensor to actually be doing a proper job.

ive sen holes drilled in the rear housings of turbo's that ive imported from japan second hand. they seem to be putting them into the rear housing of the turbo's...

now i would like to add to this question as i've recently fitted one to mine. and put it down in the merging part of the front pipe.

what tempature ranges are good?

they tell you if your running lean/righ etc right?

hi guys i'm still trying to figure the best spot as well, but i really think that your reason for having the exhaust temp sensor is the determining factor i.e is it there just to keep an eye on things, are you checking individual cylinder temps (sensor in every exhaust outlet in your manifold) are you looking to run leaner than 14.7:1 and want to keep your exhaust valves intact?

my turbo had a 1/8 bsp fitting (from memory) just after the flanges from manifold to turbo and I think thats a pretty good spot as your can get an average idea of what you cylinder temps are and the heat that your turbo is copping?

My thoughts on the matter,

cheers Matt.

Exhaust temps are an INDICATOR of rich/lean - if you want to know HOW rich/lean then invest in a wide band O2 kit.

Pyrometer will measure (obviously) temps which are thermally loading the pistons, valves, manifold and turbocharger. All of them have thermal limits.

There are good reasons for inserting the thermocouple into the manifold pre-turbo, but generally it is too difficult/not practical to muck around welding into cast manifolds or a fabricated manifold collector. A disintegrating sensor getting blasted into a turbine would not end happily...

A turbocharger WILL see a temperature reduction across the turbine (energy transferred to the turbine to drive the compressor), so basically if you want any meaningful indicator of thermal loading then mount it as close as practical to your turbine discharge. ie. in the dump pipe.

FWIW, I'm seeing 500-650 with general running about. Closed loop operation about 700, and with extended higher rpm, aggressive throttle openings and boost up to 750.

Edited by Dale FZ1

oh so where i have it is rather pointless. and i know my afr's are well below 10.

not to worry really. fuel pressure i have also which i didnt think i would really need also.

well the standard one is at the cat.. i would like to have it at the cat. before it so i can measure the temps and back off before it runs the cat into melting mode..

the standard one doesn't give you any temp readings though. it's just there to tell you two things. 1. your cat is overheating and 2. dont park on long grass.

it's a waste of time to buy a proper exhaust temp gauge and mount it there. you may as well check your EGTs with the back of your hand...

yeah the one in the cat is after the matrix and its called an after cat temp sensor as explained above to let you know theres a problem. temps at exhaust manifold upwards of 750oC at the cat around 300oC. EPA can measure temps before and after cat matrix to tell if its still intact.

I really think the best spot is before the turbo. That doesn't mean that you have to weld anything, drill a hole in the turbine housing tap a thread into it, its cast there won't be a problem, just use grease to catch the swarf ( some thread repair guys have tiny vacuums....)

Matt

Edited by mattymagoo22

True from a technical perspective. As I said earlier, there is a temp differential across the turbine due to energy transfer into the rotor.

From a practical perspective, I'm happy with installing in the dump within a short distance of the turbine outlet. I may not have the best absolute reading, but it's not a bad indicator.

Unless I had the turbo off, and turbine housing removed or manifold off I'd not be interested in the possibility of sending metal shavings through the turbo.

This discussion is similar to "where is the best place to measure engine oil temps?" ; there are options, some better than others.

I have a GT2510 and it has a small bolt thingy just after the flanges from manifold to turbo. Anyone know what size it is? Would it be a good spot for a EGT sensor?

post-31094-1171077611.jpg

Edited by WilYawn

yeah thats the spot i was talking about and I'm pretty sure its 1/8th BSP pipe thread, there are pyro sensors that will screw in no probs. (don't ask me which but I've seen em and the turbo I bought had one in it but was not sold with the turbo)

the closer to the exhaust valve the better. combustion temps 750oC and up, tail pipe 100oC maybe , the heats got to go somewhere, just my opinion.

It is in no way difficult to tap a thread in the spot pointed out on the above photo( it may already be there just has a plug in it), or in the collector of your standard cast manifold, and when done properly the risk of metal filings 'damaging' the turbine is far from high, however I wouldn't recommend it for the mechanically inept as your concerns may well be realised if done incorrectly.

cheers Matt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...