Jump to content
SAU Community

What's Your Idea Of A "bolt On" Turbo?

Ol_Mate

By Ol_Mate,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

  

55 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Ol_Mate Community Regular

Ol_Mate

Posted
Posted

I just bought a high flow turbo which I was told was a genuine bolt on job. Being fairly new to the scene I thought that bolt on meant it was pretty much a straight swap ie. no stuffing around with oil and water lines / fittings. Instead I get a turbo which isn't even close to being a straight swap. None of the stock oil/water lines match up and the turbo needs to be "clocked" so it matches up with the stock air inlet.

These are all questions I should have asked before I got the work done, isn't hindsight great.

Anyway, I just wanted to see what other peoples ideas of "bolt-on" were.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155503-whats-your-idea-of-a-bolt-on-turbo/
Share on other sites
Demoniak Proficient

Demoniak

Posted
Posted
well bolt on is.. straight on no mods.. custom is doin something different to make it work..

when u have to get new lines or something like that u cant classify that as straight on.. ur mucking around...

Tis bolt on if your engine can handle the turbo upgrade..

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
a turbo that requires some bolting requirements

LoL..

Is the HKS GT-RS kit with the oil water lines and all fittings and shit.. is that classified as bolt on? cos everything is designed to fit like the turbo and oil n water lines in the kit?

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted
I just bought a high flow turbo which I was told was a genuine bolt on job. Being fairly new to the scene I thought that bolt on meant it was pretty much a straight swap ie. no stuffing around with oil and water lines / fittings. Instead I get a turbo which isn't even close to being a straight swap. None of the stock oil/water lines match up and the turbo needs to be "clocked" so it matches up with the stock air inlet.

These are all questions I should have asked before I got the work done, isn't hindsight great.

Anyway, I just wanted to see what other peoples ideas of "bolt-on" were.

Cheers

bought off who?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i class it as 1 that you attach with bolts, rather than with say, glue or zip-ties.

but seriously, i would class it as oil and water lines screwing straight in, even if the oil line has to have 1 of the fittings drilled out to let more oil through (e.g. a slide highflow). and most importantly that it bolts up to your manifold.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Bolt on = bolts onto the stock gear.

Manifold, dump, intake pipings

If you need to mod a oil/water line, big deal. Its really not that hard.

I wouldnt count oil lines depending on the type of turbo (covered further on)

As for the turbo being "clocked" what you do mean?

One of the housings rotated? If so, thats pretty much gonna happen on any turbo as no-one is going to get it perfect for your car

Also depends what types of turbos (as i said earlier) ie Bush --> Ball bearing and vice versa.

If thats the case where your changing from one type of turbo to another (and reason for the oil/water mods) then its a bit of buyer research aswell as the seller IMO.

Two way street on that one as an owner you should really take a little interest in what they are purchasing :(

Can you give more details?

Type of turbo you had, type of turbo you have change too? etc?

Would kinda help us to give you a better idea maybe :)

Ol_Mate Community Regular

Ol_Mate

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The product is a direct competitor with the GCG highflow. Stock turbo to ball bearing highflow.

It was explicitly stated that no modifications to the stock lines were required. The only change needed was to change the banjo bolts (not the entire fitting, just the threaded part) because the thread on the new core was different.

The reality is the oil and water lines need to be changed, the oil drain needs to be modified and the wastegate actuator needs to be modified. The fittings provided look like they are designed for rubber hoses and as such, are completely useless.

I personally wouldn't call this a bolt on affair.

Thanks for the input.

Edited by Ol_Mate
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

if that is the case then it isn't a high-flow, it is a whole new turbo. it obviously isn't using the stock housing, otherwise it would just bolt back up.

i'm not aware of any other high-flows that use ball bearing other than the GCG. i know slide's are a bush bearing and it needs the hole in the banjo line drilled out to let more oil in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • joshuaho96
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • joshuaho96
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • drifter17a
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Kapr
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...