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A mates PFC also has the same issue with no bov. (I also run a PFC) He runs a completely different setup, GT35r 100mm turbo to afm s/steel pipe etc etc..

We haven't had them on the dyno and tried to tune it out, I'll have to quiz my tuner to see if he has had a fiddle with a pfc and no bov before.

Thats just a band aid fix (if it does work which i've never heard of)... to fix it properly you need a form of engine management like R31Nismoid said... safc2 is designed to help with this EXACT issue.. and your car will run better aswell...

EDIT : Please show proof of this band aid fix and how logically a spark plug can compensate for the amount of extra fuel thrown in to make it stall... i understand it for missfire but not for full on stalling.

1) His car is proof in itself.

2) If you have poor spark, tipping extra fuel in, wettens the plug too much, not allowing it to spark, no spark, no go.

i too have this problem... its a pain at times !

if you look at the map trace, when u press the clutch and revs come down and just before it stall do you see it go into the positive load points of the map?

on mine it does this and i just dont know how u would tune this out...

all i did was put a piece of tin between the stock bov and the manifold its connected too. i left the lil hose on the bov connected as i didnt see the point of disconnecting it and plugging it up if leaving it connectied to the bov would do the same thing.

so changing my spark plugs would do it ya recon?

pLugs wont fix it, pull out the bit of tin and i bet the prob will disappear.

ive never had a problem with stalling with blocked of bov.

Its more to do with a persons driving style aswell.

Thats a big key factor.

Years ago i used to run no BOV as thats how i purchased the car and i didnt get around to fitting one for a while.

After a few weeks of it stalling i soon worked out how to time hitting the accel/clutch in such a combination that it would not stall.

If i didnt do this, it would stall.

So its two things. Non re-circ BOV, and the consequential driving style of the owner

1) His car is proof in itself.

2) If you have poor spark, tipping extra fuel in, wettens the plug too much, not allowing it to spark, no spark, no go.

Dude the amount of fuel it throws in to make it stall aint going to be fixed with new plugs, well not properly anyway... besides how long will it last before it does it again?? i'm presuming the added fuel will make the plugs turn to shit alot more quicker than what they would usually do... besides its a BAND AID FIX for stalling.. for missfire i'd understand not stalling.. and it wasn't his car.. it was his "friends" car if you can read.

I have always had the same problem with my SR20.

I believe it is caused from coming off the throttle too fast. This should not affect a MAP sensored car to the same extent, but a car with an AFM it will affect more. What I think happens is that air comes through the AFM and is measured and the ECU pumps the fuel in for that air. However as the air travels along it meets a closed throttle body. Combustion however sitll tryes to take place, but cannot due to there being no air. f you get back on the thottle quick enough, the air will return and prevent it from stalling but if you leave the thottle closed then there is simply too much fuel and not enough air and it will stall.

The key to preventing this is to give the thottle a blip in situations where you suspect that it may stall.

As above... your right it wont affect map sensored cars but will affect afm 9 times out of 10... but i have seen some afm cars with bov's that done get effected which i find weird, plus no form of engine management either... but best fix is engine management...

If you want the car for noise i.e. flutter/atmo bov, just buy a safc2 and get it tuned, they're designed to help with this exact issue.

i have a crazy idea.

if i was to run a cold air pipe from the front bar to the pod. would i be force feeding the pod? therefore the AFM is only reading some air..while heaps is going in. then when that 'some' air comes back out due to the blocked off bov and the car adds extra fuel. it will be running close to normal as there is more air in the thing than it knows.

sound srupid or good idea?

i have a crazy idea.

if i was to run a cold air pipe from the front bar to the pod. would i be force feeding the pod? therefore the AFM is only reading some air..while heaps is going in. then when that 'some' air comes back out due to the blocked off bov and the car adds extra fuel. it will be running close to normal as there is more air in the thing than it knows.

sound srupid or good idea?

The amount of air the engine can "gobble up" is still the same amount, no matter how much you try to ram the air in from speed, it won't help.

The extra piece of pipe is just like moving the pod further from the AFM, you still have the same issue.

can have mine for 50 bucks i have no use for it as i got a powerfc

How was this tuned out tho...

Everyone is speculating without any answers...

Ill have my car retuned in about a month so ill make sure to ask my tuner how he did it on the PFC.

Its more to do with a persons driving style aswell.

Thats a big key factor.

Years ago i used to run no BOV as thats how i purchased the car and i didnt get around to fitting one for a while.

After a few weeks of it stalling i soon worked out how to time hitting the accel/clutch in such a combination that it would not stall.

If i didnt do this, it would stall.

So its two things. Non re-circ BOV, and the consequential driving style of the owner

I agree with this, my car also suffers the same prob due to having the flutter, you'll get used to it and you will learn how not to make it stall, theres no need to snap your foot off the accelerator pedal anyhow unless you must break suddenly which happens everynow and again.

if it stalls clutch start it, you will be rolling anyhow, if your good enough just play with the accelerator while the clutch is in until the revs stabilize, you'll get the hang of it

Just out of curiosity the redtops don't have a bov and don't stall, what would be the difference between them?

would you be talking about red-top sr20s? they actually do have a bov. its right next to the stock intercooler. i use the one off my old 180sx as a paper weight.

Dude the amount of fuel it throws in to make it stall aint going to be fixed with new plugs, well not properly anyway... besides how long will it last before it does it again?? i'm presuming the added fuel will make the plugs turn to shit alot more quicker than what they would usually do... besides its a BAND AID FIX for stalling.. for missfire i'd understand not stalling.. and it wasn't his car.. it was his "friends" car if you can read.

i had the stalling issue on my car with stock bov, and my best mate had it in his car with a hks ssq bov.

the reason the new plugs help is that new plugs have a stronger spark than old plugs (and older plugs have generally warn the gap wider than what they started), and since running no bov/atmo bov makes the car run rich when you lift off the throttle the stronger spark doesn't get wet out as easy.

there are lots of cars out there that run fine with the stock ecu and atmo/no bov. skylines just seem to be the most tempremental with everything to do with turbo motors. look at the sr20. you can screw heaps of boost through it and the ecu won't cut out, the turbo won't spit the exhaust wheel out the back, you can run atmo bovs or no bov without any dramas.

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