Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...

Turns out i was sent 2 sets of fronts, just waiting on the rear ones to turn up before i start. I would have had them all in last weekend otherwise. Should have them next week so maybe in a fortnight before i am done as i have no garage atm which makes working on the car at night not enjoyable enough for me to do anything.

  • 1 month later...

Update!

RCA's do funny things to your alignment.

The rears arrived, and sat in the box for a month while my car was repaired from a track outing. I installed them front and rear last weekend, as luckily i had the right size bits of pipe available out of my dad's stash of these sort of random handy things, a decent size bench vice and a big fu(k off hammer to get the old ball joint's out of the arms.

Anyway, onto the alignment. With no other changes other than the ball joints my front camber went from ~3.0 down to ~1.4 at max adjustment of my nolathane upper arms, and my toe went from -1mm to +40mm (no, i didn't accidentally miss a decimal point), and castor dropped from 8.5 to 8. Rear camber went from -1 to just on the positive side of 0 and toe went in enough so that i had to wind it out in the driveway to stop the wheel fouling on the lower control arm (it was always close to begin with). I wound camber back in to -1.5 on the rear and had to go for 0 toe (which still scrubs the LCA a touch but a spacer will fix that).

So now, i need to find some front upper arms with more adjustment to get my camber back to where i want it and try and find my spare set of 20mm bolt on spacers in my storage garage full of all my stuff (i don't like my chances so i'll probably have to buy some new ones for now)

So right now the alignment is a bit of a compromise, but i will see how it goes next weekend when i get it to wakefield.

I have no idea what it will have done to the balance of the car either, but will find out soon enough.

Richard,

You have the dogbone style adjustable upper arms in your gtr right? Did you find you could get significantly more camber out of them than an adjustable bush setup? Can you fit them backwards and gain castor?

oh yeah, the rear wheels are now sitting 15mm further out to fill the guard again. Who'd have thunk you could get a 17x9.5 with effective offset of 31 under the back of a 32gtst with just lipping. 10's are a possibility with the right offset :)

  • 3 months later...

now that i have fitted s14 LCA's to regain track width and a dogbone style adjustable upper arm the car is handling fairly well again.....

I also fitted copies of the mfr tie rod ends with sealed longer ball joint (as opposed to the rose joint type ones). No more bump steer :w00t:

  • 1 year later...

ive just bought a set of the Moonface Racing ones. on a r33 gts-t ive found ive got clearance isshues. on the disc. at first i thought it was only on the right. untill i went back an checked that its also on the left. maybe they didnt expect ppl with standard brakes to fit this item.has anyone noticed anything like this before. guess i might have to do a brake upgrade

thanks

Matt Bailey

Edited by MattBailey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...