Jump to content
SAU Community

Phillip Island - Motorsport People - Please Read


Recommended Posts

I was with you Jack. I was going down on the Saturday as I missed Calder. But too bloody hot.

I'm now going to the MSCA Sandown day on the 4th of March to shake the cob webs out. I want everything lickety split for P.I. as I want a 1.50 (PB minus 2 seconds) :dream:

Regards

Andrew

Yeah wouldn't mind going back to Sandown, but really want these fresh tyres for PI... :ninja:

Plus I don't think I will go much faster at Sandown..

Will come and watch though...

Chasing sub 20's Andrew?? :blush:

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah wouldn't mind going back to Sandown, but really want these fresh tyres for PI... :O

Plus I don't think I will go much faster at Sandown..

Will come and watch though...

Chasing sub 20's Andrew?? :P

I'll settle for matching Scotsmans 1.21 at this stage. I haven't raced since October. :P

Regards

Andrew

I was with you Jack. I was going down on the Saturday as I missed Calder. But too bloody hot.

I'm now going to the MSCA Sandown day on the 4th of March to shake the cob webs out. I want everything lickety split for P.I. as I want a 1.50 (PB minus 2 seconds) :dream:

Regards

Andrew

1.50, you and me both.

Bali for easter booked and paid for... check

Sisters wedding in Hamilton Island for a week booked and paid for... check

new turbo still sitting on the table at home with no $ to install it... check

tires worn down to the indicators all round... check

still going to Phillip Island for my first run around there... check!

Roy just book the trip and pay for it... then lie, cheat and steal to get your car to PI!

see u there nick mate...my car will be ready for some action PI style

Regarding the MSCA day at Sandown...what are the thoughts of getting pinged with an external gate amongst all the old NA cars with open pipes?

Roy,

I don't know if you know my car however, I got busted at P.I. for noise and this MSCA event is being run under the same noise restrictions according to the supp regs.

Regards

Andrew

I've done a 1.50.1 at PI with the super wing and hard off semi's. I believe my car was capable of a 1.49 or 1.48 in the same configuration that got me a 1.21 @ Sandown.

Haven't had a good run at PI recently, except for back when car was completly stock in which a 1.52 was quiet easy. I think Bris's car should be able to do a 1.51.9 with brand new re55's and the same driving style he showed me on the back track at DECA.

Either that or he will kill himself.

I've done a 1.50.1 at PI with the super wing and hard off semi's. I believe my car was capable of a 1.49 or 1.48 in the same configuration that got me a 1.21 @ Sandown.

Haven't had a good run at PI recently, except for back when car was completly stock in which a 1.52 was quiet easy. I think Bris's car should be able to do a 1.51.9 with brand new re55's and the same driving style he showed me on the back track at DECA.

Either that or he will kill himself.

Yeah but your a freak and way too good behind the wheel.

Haven't had a good run at PI recently, except for back when car was completly stock in which a 1.52 was quiet easy. I think Bris's car should be able to do a 1.51.9 with brand new re55's and the same driving style he showed me on the back track at DECA.

Shut up Chris...we have kegs riding on this. Im no chance. Come on, more ppl bet kegs :(

Shut up Chris...we have kegs riding on this. Im no chance. Come on, more ppl bet kegs :(

Bwaahaha. I can't afford to buy myself a beer right now, let alone a keg. But I trust your car after a few drives @ DECA. It's scarey, but can be quick when you don't care if you live or die.

so this is still going ahead? I checked the thread on the REX forum and they were still talking about the cost...Can i assume tis going ahead - for somer eaosn my logon isn't working on the rex forum.

I'm buying new rims and tyres so i hope its going ahead.

At this stage, I've been advised entries/supp regs will be available soon - so as far as I know, yes its going ahead.

You need to note that with ANY event, there is always a possibility of cancellation.

Well im out for Sandown with MSCA. I can only afford the one day this month and that will be PI. Even then i am meant to be running an event on the same weekend. Will have to get out of it.

Looks like i will be doing PI with the std diff... just to make things a little more challenging. But Project Racetrace R32 GTSt with Racepace R33 GTR mods is coming along nicely. Good thing im lighter and dont need the brakes :(

Well im out for Sandown with MSCA. I can only afford the one day this month and that will be PI. Even then i am meant to be running an event on the same weekend. Will have to get out of it.

Looks like i will be doing PI with the std diff... just to make things a little more challenging. But Project Racetrace R32 GTSt with Racepace R33 GTR mods is coming along nicely. Good thing im lighter and dont need the brakes :dry:

Haha Racetrace, I luv it... :laugh:

Bris, your car will be very competitive with the future mods, watch out Matt/Ray/Dane!!!! :happy:

Scotsman - your dangerous.. :laugh:

Matt...stubborn pride is going to make sure im broke. I still want to see what lap times the car can do as it came to Vic...so none of the good gear goes on until im satisfied im getting near the existing setup. So thaty means 1:23s Sandown (ideally 1:22s), 1.37 Winton (ideally 1:35), 1:52 PI, (Ideally 1:51)

Then ill thrown in the cheater spec suspension and gearbox. It will be interesting to see if it makes the car quicker...then the engine. Its cheaper to do it all in one hit...but i want to know where the best value is in making the car quicker for the EVO II in a few years time

sorry newb q.. but how many laps do u get?

In one session you'd get 1 warm up lap, 3 flying laps, 1 cool down lap.

Usually you'd get around 5-6 sessions including practice in the morning..

Providing there are no incidents then usually about 5 sessions...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...