Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tony Alford ran these on his GTR at Rally Tasmania a few weeks back. He had the 8 piston 356mm up front and some 6 piston (i assume 324mm) up rear. Didn't mention anything about brake issues, however he was having a dog of a time chasing some other issue which they believe was a ball joint issue causing something (unable to pick) to hit on the rotor.

See how they go in Targa in 2 months time.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...

Just Jap are working on new hats and brackets for anyone affected by this, we had a slight rub on the rotor as well....I think there is only a mil or 2 in it - happens only on full suspension compression and full lock for me

wel lots of people have used these on the track without problems so maybe its tony and us who are wierd. In any case 2-3mm extra will fix the problem, just contact Darron @ just jap if you've been affected.

I don't know about 1 race meet, but we replaced them once or twice a year. basically they just get fatigued from all the heat cycles. eventually it's enough that the driver notices a reduction in the pedal feel. I guess if you had a lot of dough you could do them every meet. I know some of the guys we ran against in prod sports changed tyres after every session! we used 1 set for a whole meet.

  • 4 weeks later...

So I am getting ready to buy this kit,

I just want to make sure that no one has experienced any problems as of yet? I know you guys ran them a few track days and loved how they perform. Is that still the case? Have no issues popped up?

If you guys still love them, I will be buying this kit in a few days.

Half the price of the Brembo and works just as well? Cant be beat!

-Sayajin

we are running these on the car at Targa Tas this week - they have been thrashed and haven't faded at all.

we were running the street pads for the first day and chewed through them pretty quick (no fade but it ripped up the pads), but we've changed to the race pads and its fine now.

Duncun,

got a surprise last week had a delivery of new bells and mounting bracket to remove the issue of the rotor touching even though was not an issue for me.

I know what you mean about the street pads they performed great on the track but boy did i get through them in a hurry. Have the green track pads now and will run them next week in our first round of open saloon championship here in the middle east. Currently running some DS 3000 pads i got from a mate who is envolved with the BTCC so got a heap of run in pads to use but would like to try the green pads out and see how the perform.

And Sayajin,

Yesterday i had the porsche instructor and local radical cup champion take my old shitter out for a drive as he has been asking for some time. He chased down a GT3RS ( 996 ) not sure how good a driver the GT3 guy was but he did chase him down and and passed him. Dont get me wrong this guy is one of the better drivers i have seen, but he did pass comment on the brakes on said they are as good as his 997 GT3 RS ( not the carbon option ) but i think that the slick tyres may have helpped a lot and inflated their performance compared to his GT3RS.

Point is i know they are not as good as the GT3 brakes and he was just a little excited ( Boost you know what i mean ) when he spoke with me but they are a great package for the old skyline. And yes they are still new so lets see how they go after a season but even so if i have to get new calipers so be it the as still very cheap compared to other options.

  • 3 weeks later...

I have some pics of the second set of pads i have gone through for every to have a look at the wear pattern but i can not post pics for some reason. Will get them up ASAP for every one to see.

Make sure you get the green track pads as well if your going to put the car on the track. The grey street pads work fine but you will get through them very quickly using them on thrack

Edited by tacker

Ok some pics of the second set of pads used by the G4 calipers.

Ran a new set of green track pads today and they were not good out of the box, but did get better and better as the day when on. seem to be better on the rotors than the ds 3000.

post-28646-1178884516_thumb.jpg

post-28646-1178884549_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...