Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Twin Turbo Removal


tacker
 Share

Recommended Posts

As per the Nissan workshop manual for an R32 GTR its 16 steps to remove a turbo....cops A%#E it is.

My 16 step guide.

1. open bonnet

2. guess where some one hid the wee bloody things

3. stand around in sheer amaisement that they are where you thought they could not be

4. curse some snotty nose engineer who thought to put them there

5. purchase oxy set

6. purchase spanner set to replace all the spanner that are going to be modified to get to bolts / nuts

7. purchase box of bandaids as you just know your going to need them.

8. drive through bottle shop on way back from bandaid trip ( pain relief only )

9. find 44 gallon of wd 40 and set up drip feed to whole rhs of engine compartment for at least a week to have any chance at all.

10. sit some where very quite for at least an hour to contemplate if you really really REALLY need so much horse power ( of course you do ) before starting.

11. ask yer mates if you really really need 500HP ( also ask if they are willing to help )

12. Now you know who yer mates really really are and i bet they are the ones who have not remove the turbos on a GTR before!

13. close bonnet!

14. get yellow pages

15. Find some one who does this for a living ( silly bugger ) wait in sheer terror for the bill from the god of turbo removal.

16. open bill from god of turbo removal only after the entire content of step 8 have been consumed and that be thankful you had the wisdom to have the pain relief on hand before, cause you sure wont be able to afford and any for quite some time after.

Right some one please send me a link to how to do this properly as i have searched and searched but all i could find was the removal of GTST turbos.

regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As per the Nissan workshop manual for an R32 GTR its 16 steps to remove a turbo....cops A%#E it is.

My 16 step guide.

1. open bonnet

2. guess where some one hid the wee bloody things

3. stand around in sheer amaisement that they are where you thought they could not be

4. curse some snotty nose engineer who thought to put them there

5. purchase oxy set

6. purchase spanner set to replace all the spanner that are going to be modified to get to bolts / nuts

7. purchase box of bandaids as you just know your going to need them.

8. drive through bottle shop on way back from bandaid trip ( pain relief only )

9. find 44 gallon of wd 40 and set up drip feed to whole rhs of engine compartment for at least a week to have any chance at all.

10. sit some where very quite for at least an hour to contemplate if you really really REALLY need so much horse power ( of course you do ) before starting.

11. ask yer mates if you really really need 500HP ( also ask if they are willing to help )

12. Now you know who yer mates really really are and i bet they are the ones who have not remove the turbos on a GTR before!

13. close bonnet!

14. get yellow pages

15. Find some one who does this for a living ( silly bugger ) wait in sheer terror for the bill from the god of turbo removal.

16. open bill from god of turbo removal only after the entire content of step 8 have been consumed and that be thankful you had the wisdom to have the pain relief on hand before, cause you sure wont be able to afford and any for quite some time after.

Right some one please send me a link to how to do this properly as i have searched and searched but all i could find was the removal of GTST turbos.

regards

You pretty much covered it.

i followed the work shop manual for most of it. but i also had all the required tools to remove everything

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL! :huh:

I'm heading down this path soon.....

Though i reckon i'll follow steps 1-3, then 13. Then of course #15, and cringe upon seeing the bill!

Oh well..... the price we pay in the pursuit of performance :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hahahahahaha

I had a bunch of good blokes who know how to do it....and still we couldnt figure out why some of the things were put where they were put!!!

End of the day, one chipped tooth, a trip to the dentist for a fake tooth and the motor was out.....not to mention the bandaids!

Great thread :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pay some-one else to do it...If your not a mechanic...

Cost approx...$500 to $600.Engine in..."don't make them take it out cause their lazy."

This will cost another $500

The extras such as new copper washers/bolts/gaskets/oil and water lines"if needed"

can cost though.

Great explanation / DIY Turbo replacement for a GTR..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a sreaming b%#@^&$d of a job.

and i started so it will be a recovery truck to get it to the god of turbo removal.

PS i work on dirty smelly old deisel engines everyday and these engines were made for blokes with hands like a little kid. How the hell do you get the oil drain sepeated from the cartidge.

Edited by tacker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not that bad :P

Start by draining oil/water from the motor, just do a little at a time. The stages _are_ ridiculous (they summarize so much

work so easily!!!).

Don't lean on any of the oil/water lines (you can damage them very easily) so make sure you've cracked the nuts on the banjos

before you undo the banjos. This goes for anything that you might want to separate - separate the lines while they're still

relatively fixed in place rather than try to do it after you've removed a solid mounting.

Also to take the turbos off the manifolds you need to do it in stages - like crack the nuts, lift a little, undo some more,

lift a little, etc. etc.

I had a bit of drama with the water lines running along the side of the head; had to find a special spanner that would engage

more faces than a standard spanner (pipe spanner? flare spanner?). I also found that a set of Kincrome metric stubby ratchet

spanners was invaluable (both in removal, and installation).

Good luck, anyway. If you've already made your car undrivable, you may as well do the lot. It really _isn't_ that bad.

Regards,

Saliya

Link to comment
Share on other sites

matter of fact the pain relief is going to get used tonight stuff steps 9 through to 16.......no on second thoughts stuff them all

Anyone want to buy a slightly used GTR????

Edited by tacker
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well bugger me if the turbo fairies didnt come last night and remove my turbos. Think i might have made a deal with them when i bellowed i would give anything if these F$%^ing turbos would come off

They did manage to drink all the pain relief i had at home and left the empties laying around the car. And the Missus is missing this morning as well, wonder if they took her as part of the deal. Which upsets me a little as now i have to pick up the empty beer cans myself.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well bugger me if the turbo fairies didnt come last night and remove my turbos. Think i might have made a deal with them when i bellowed i would give anything if these F$%^ing turbos would come off

They did manage to drink all the pain relief i had at home and left the empties laying around the car. And the Missus is missing this morning as well, wonder if they took her as part of the deal. Which upsets me a little as now i have to pick up the empty beer cans myself.

Ha!! Now the turbo fairies will hold you to ransom as you have to get the turbos back on again.

As with all reassembly just reverse the deassembly steps.

You may have trouble getting past the first (last) couple of steps on your procedure. I believe the turbo fairies like a drink but then can't be bothered doing anything afterwards.

Fun Fun Fun.

ps I pulled the donk out of mine as my gorilla hands (and physique) just couldn't cut it with the engine in the car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They come out in the end and they will f%^&ing well go back in!

turbo fairies have been back in touch and they are willing to put them back in without a drink, if only i take the missus back!!!!

Wasnt sooo bad picking up empty beer cans so i am in 2 minds.

Edited by tacker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They come out in the end and they will f%^&ing well go back in!

turbo fairies have been back in touch and they are willing to put them back in without a drink, if only i take the missus back!!!!

Wasnt sooo bad picking up empty beer cans so i am in 2 minds.

Two things i gotta say....is she insured...the missus that is. :blush:

They never go back the way you wish they would...the turbo's that is. :ninja:

Keep the info coming.... :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well i got that all arse about then

i insured the car

Missus has never been the same sice we were married or was when i got the GTR cant remember now.

Ps Chemist is all outa bandaids too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...