Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Stock R33 Turbo.

NYTSKY

By NYTSKY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted (edited)
honestly all u need is a little bit of common sense and bout 2-3 hours of time to remove stock turbo, i done it by myself 2 weeks ago and im no mechanic

just make sure u label any bolts and nuts u take off and ur set

2-3 hours to remove a stock turbo is decent time. You probably won't come into problems removing the turbo.

The thing is, nothing EVER goes according to plan. I always plan for the worst. If you break bolts, if things don't line up etc, if you do something stupid and blow your motor. You're bound to need to buy stuff during the install that you didn't know that you needed.

Things that are planned to take 2 weeks can end up taking more.

I took my turbo out about a month ago expecting to receive the highflow the following week and install it. It's been about a month now, and my battery almost went flat twice. I had to plug a charger on.

I simply believe that if a car is your only car, firstly, you shouldn't mod it. Even if you take it to a workshop, they can run into complications, but they're generally better equipped to handle them. They have more spare parts, and also, they want to get your car out of there, so they work efficiently. Having said that, Sometimes, I have had to go home and get my car the next day because they need parts.

Trying to do something yourself is even worse. Especially if you've never done it before. If you're going to need the car to go to work on monday, I simply believe that it's not a good idea to start an install on saturday thinking that you can finish it by monday. If you need a part or break something, who's actually open on the weekend?

Worse thing is, if you get stuck, you can no longer take it to the workshop

Edited by MANWHORE
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

I have a question. I'm half way through pulling mine off my Stagea, and I have no idea how to get the damn studs out on the ehaust side. I undo the nut, and it jams up against my dump pipe. I can't get the bolt, which turns out is 100% threaded, to turn at all. The nut just undoes over it. Does anyone have any secrets in how to get these bolts out of the turbo housing?

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

chris, (it's chris here :( ) when it's time for you to do it, i'll recommend you someone good :cheers:

I do the oil, just so that the turbo has the best chance of surviving. No old seady oil. I find doing the oil is easier. I have to jack my car up and put it on stands to do the oil (it's low). Since i've got it jacked up for the turbo, doing the oil makes no difference.

Doing the oil and fitler wiht the turbo saves me an hour of time muckign around jacking up.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

do the oil change before you do the turbo swap so you arent running the turbo without oil pressure for too long. it takes time to fill up the oil filter which means it'll take longer to build up oil pressure before you can start it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...