Jump to content
SAU Community

How The &^%$ Do I Get This Water Line Off !

Birnie

By Birnie,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

Yes that is a pig of a hose.

you will need a long set of needle nose pliers to get the clamp off and then spray a tiny squirt of wd40 inside and outside the hose and twist. it will come off.

getting it back on is another story...

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

yeah, there's no easy way out. You need tiny hands. Try and undo the clamp anyway you can.

Either a long screw driver if you can, or needle nose pliers.

I cut an 8 mm spanner in half and got my hand in (I lubed it up with soap and got it in - yes i was scared i'd never get it back out)

once you get the clamp undone enough, you can get the line out, by pulling the line itself from outside

If you're installing the hks turbo and replacing the line with a braided one, I have no idea how on earth you'll get the new line in.

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

The water line that runs around the back of the head is bolted to the head with a 10mm head bolt the same as the ones holding your fenders to the chassis.

Remove the heater hoses and push them up to gain access to it.

There is only one and its in the center of the head.

You can also access it by removing the valleycover and pushing the wire out of the way.

Remove the bonnet also it makes it much easier to see.

Why would you want to remove it though?

You can just cut the other water line pipe (return from the turbo) and join them with some high temp hose.

:)

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Been there, done that. Not fun.

Having 2 people to remove it helps, one holds the hose and the other yanks on the metal line.

For install of braided lines atleast you can bend the rubber hose up and fit the barbed end of the braided line, then feed the other end of the line back around the back of the head.

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The water line that runs around the back of the head is bolted to the head with a 10mm head bolt the same as the ones holding your fenders to the chassis.

Remove the heater hoses and push them up to gain access to it.

There is only one and its in the center of the head.

You can also access it by removing the valleycover and pushing the wire out of the way.

Remove the bonnet also it makes it much easier to see.

Why would you want to remove it though?

You can just cut the other water line pipe (return from the turbo) and join them with some high temp hose.

:)

Just hacksaw the metal pipe off, probably as close to the turbo as possible????

I guess I'm worried about metal filing getting in there and also, there would be no lip to stop the pipe coming off..(or would that not be a problem ? )

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Have a go ya mug!!!

Actually to tell the truth, mine was held on with the hose clamps that you pinch together with a set of long handled pointy pliers [$10 at Crazy Joes or Micks or somesuch]. The hose was a bit stuck, so I used a long thin screwdriver to work under between the hose and the metal pipe and some WD40 and it came out easy. Don't ask me how to put it back on, I haven't got that far yet..........lol.

PS I don't have a valley cover. that probably made it easier. Actually I found the bolts that screw into the block that hold the stays on this hose harder to get off than the hose.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

metal filings are not really an issue wiht that particular hose. That is just a coolant hose, so ti's just the cooling system - just water.

Ther'ell be plentny of shit in there anyways, like everytime I dropped the coolant in my daily driver (not my skyline), there's all rust, and crap that comes out.

Don't get metal in the oil lines though. Totally different story

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

It's not that easy mike, coz jase is getting the line replaced as part of the turbo install.

Also, I'd replace that rubber hose at the back. Someone recently, forgot who it was had the hose blow (they're' 10 years old afterall). Better do it now while the turbo is off. Imagine if it blows in 6 months time and having to do it with the turbo on!

If you cut the line, keep in mind that the cooling system is under pressure (up to 0.8bar). Without a bead around the line, the hose can possibly blow off. Imagine having the line blow off on a hot day as you're driving along the freeway. bye bye engine

Ol_Mate Community Regular

Ol_Mate

Posted
Posted

I've just cut mine, about 30mm before it bends around behind the head. I went to pirtek and bought a compression gland to adapt some braided stainless teflon hose on. works great and looks good, and heat isn't an issue.

If ya want photos I can get some.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
It's not that easy mike, coz jase is getting the line replaced as part of the turbo install.

that is wat i did when i replace my turbo with a HKS turbo. and the hks turbo came with a braided line. so i cut it just before the bent.

basicly the same as "Ol_Mate" did!

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

undo the bolt behind the head, then un hook that entire line from the back of the plenum... and yes replace that section onto the plenum, mine let go after my turbo upgrade, wasnt easy to get to with it all bolted back up.

you could just remove the solid line all together and run the braid from the back of the plenum

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I've just cut mine, about 30mm before it bends around behind the head. I went to pirtek and bought a compression gland to adapt some braided stainless teflon hose on. works great and looks good, and heat isn't an issue.

If ya want photos I can get some.

Photos would be great !

So you didn;t need a lip on the end of the pipe with that gland thing?

`nigno Rising Star

`nigno

Posted
Posted
undo the bolt behind the head, then un hook that entire line from the back of the plenum... and yes replace that section onto the plenum, mine let go after my turbo upgrade, wasnt easy to get to with it all bolted back up.

you could just remove the solid line all together and run the braid from the back of the plenum

Exactly what I did, you dont wanna be ripping that son of a ***** off more than once in your lifetime :( My knuckles have never been the same since :happy: /emo.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted (edited)
Exactly what I did, you dont wanna be ripping that son of a ***** off more than once in your lifetime :( My knuckles have never been the same since :happy: /emo.

Do it right, do it once :happy:

You can do it. Motivational thread for jase. go jase go jase go jase :)

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Tomei gasket

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...