Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just go 2J, it will have more torque, which will power it better and allow you to find a diff ratio easier to suit the holden diff.

Plus you can spend the money on actually getting it in there and bolt ons and still make good power. RB26 will need to be built up typically.

If you want manual with the 2J could add some extra cost to the job, where as the RB might be a little cheapier in that respect.

Stock 2J, some cams and T88 for the win.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2935498
Share on other sites

2JZ no question. any arguments of supra vs skyline always come down to the skyline having 4wd, motor vs motor, the RB26 just cant stand up to the 2JZ, even skyline owners will admit that

oh btw, how exactly do you put a GTR into a VY ute?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2936992
Share on other sites

The other night at the drags there was a old VX commodore V8 GEN3(LS1) i believe like the ones the police use to drive around,

it had a GT42 and a built engine it was running easy 10's, but he said he was going through alot of diff's or drives shafts i can't remember.

i'll go the 2JZ over RB for the VY Ute :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2937312
Share on other sites

Personally I would GEN-TT kit the LS1.

2JZ and the RB26 are great, but don't match the low down torque of the LS1.

For the cost of the conversion, I can't see how it would bring better gains compared to spending the money on the LS1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2937569
Share on other sites

This is a quote from sydneykid

As I have mentioned previously there is nothing wrong with 1JZ/JZ's themselves (other than the turbo being on the wrong side), it is the stuff bolts on to the engine that is the problem.

One example, multiple throttle bodies on RB26's, there is nothing even remotely close on JZ's. This makes such a huge difference in throttle response, which for a road car is nice to have and for a circuit car is a MUST.

Second example, gearboxes, the fact is Toyota don't make a decent manual gearbox that bolts to a JZ. They admit it themselves by using Gertrag to supply gearboxes for the Supras. Who cares for a drag car, run an auto.

Third example, no 4wd option. It's all very well for the JZ to make lots of power, but that is pretty damn useless if you can't get it to the ground. Traction is a nice thing for a road car to have and for a circuit car it is a MUST. For a 1/4 mile car, well who cares, just use bigger drag slicks on the rear.

When chosing an engine, sometimes the most important thing is not the engine itself, but how that engine fits into the rest of the package around it. This is why an RB20/25/26/30 will always be a superior choice.

biggrin.gif cheers biggrin.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2937618
Share on other sites

infact i'm willing to bet the owner of the said ute, will follow suit with most other holden ute owners and prefer a well laid burnout with enough smoke to rid a small town of its cockroach population than a fast circuit time.

*subscribes to future burnout thread feature the video of the ute with a 2j destroying a set of tyres in some well thought out location*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2937773
Share on other sites

infact i'm willing to bet the owner of the said ute, will follow suit with most other holden ute owners and prefer a well laid burnout with enough smoke to rid a small town of its cockroach population than a fast circuit time.

*subscribes to future burnout thread feature the video of the ute with a 2j destroying a set of tyres in some well thought out location*

So the goal would be to avoid traction then

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158002-gtr-or-2jz/#findComment-2937810
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...