Jump to content
SAU Community

I Can Wobble My Rear Wheels With My Hands

Birth
 Share

Recommended Posts

Birth Experienced

Birth

Posted
Posted

Hi all, I would like some advice.

I have jacked my car up off the ground and found that I can wobble my rear wheel about 5mm by applying fairly slight pressure with my hands on the left and right hand side of the wheel. It does not wobble when I shake it from the top and bottom. Is this normal? Have I got worn bushes? Tyre wear seems normal.

My car is a 1993 R32 GTS4 with stock arms / bushes, GTRGeoff hicas lock bar and whiteline shocks.

I have put a (dodgy) pic of what I mean to help with my explaination.

Thanks,

Ben.

post-28712-1172791431.jpg

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

sounds like a worn bussh somehere. Go to pedders and get a $14 28 point safety check, that is the best way to pick up problems. After that you can do all the work yourself.

There are a few bushes there, so maybe take the wheel off and have a good look arround. Maybe a ball joint on the lock out bar.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

combination of old soft rubber bushes front and a flogged out tierod ball joint (or tierod end) rear.

If you remove the rubber boot on the end of the hicas rack and get someone to move the wheel for you it's pretty obvious if the ball joint is shagged. Any movement = borked

gts4diehard Rising Star

gts4diehard

Posted
Posted

it will be combination of the link bushes and the tierods, more likely the tierods. Did you fit the old steering arms to the hicas lock bar?

The rear bushes needs a little movement in them because the hicas is basically compressing the bushes to give the car rear steering.

But you should not feel any movement at all by hand.

First thing I would try is new steering arms (from the hicas lock bar to the tierod end in the hub) as the ball joint might be worn. If that doesn't cure it then you will need to remove the hubs to replace the link bushes in the hubs. Once you see how involved that is you might as well replace the lot, because its not a job you want to do twice!

I replaced the bushes in my hubs, and the steering arms and that tightened up the rear end so that you couldn't feel any movement at all. The next step would have been to replace the bushes in the links themselves to have basically new rear suspension.

The car felt more controlled at high speed into corners after that (on qld raceway), and I think that the Hicas was not in any way detrimental to the cars handling considering that the hicas was now working with components in good condition.

  • 10 months later...
noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

When removing the rear hub assembly did you have to replace many parts

was wondering if i can just unbolt the shafts and the hub assemblys etc

replace tierod /hicas ends in a press then bolt it all back up?

I assume you would have to use a press or maybe a porta power to actually press the tierod /hicas ens out of the hub assembly etc

  • 5 months later...
RB20JT Rising Star

RB20JT

Posted
Posted

sorry mate what are s/h items...my car has done 125000kms...but the guy before me had shopped springs in it..so that would have sped up the wearing out process...

also what do they cost and from where?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
sorry mate what are s/h items...my car has done 125000kms...but the guy before me had shopped springs in it..so that would have sped up the wearing out process...

also what do they cost and from where?

s/h = second hand.

chopped springs would be unlike to cause damage. Hitting gutters ripple strips etc would. :)

I picked up a complete rack from Wally at Zimports for bugger all can't remember the price but it was under $100.

I recently bought a new steer rack with rod ends as the front left did the same; that cost me $100 for the complete rack and tie rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • Komdotkom
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • GTSBoy
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
×
×
  • Create New...