Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys just wondering if anyone has had their heater core start leaking on them and where abouts you got it fixed? Mine started leaking the other day and Im trying to figure out whether its worth getting a new heater core installed or just bypassing the heater altogether. Ive read in some other posts that the whole dash needs to come out so im thinking its gonna be an expensive job. Does anyone know of a good place in Perth that I could get this sorted out at?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158881-heater-core-leaking/
Share on other sites

Ive just got some quotes to replace the heater.....$1000 - $1200!

Ive heard from another member on SAU that u can replace the heater via the glovebox. The only thing is you have to degas the aircon and disconnect the aircon pipes. Im thinking that doing it this way (even with getting the aircon regassed) will come out considerably cheaper than removing the whole dash. Has anyone else done this?

Well, I had the heater core in my S1 Stagea replaced (luckily, just before I bought it) and 1 other guy on the Stagea forum did his own and the thing both had in common was coming away from the experience twitchy gibbering messes.....

I realise the dash's are slightly different, but get someone with FAST access to show you the breakdown pic's and you will see what I mean. It takes someone who knows what they are doing 1-2 days min.

Well, I had the heater core in my S1 Stagea replaced (luckily, just before I bought it) and 1 other guy on the Stagea forum did his own and the thing both had in common was coming away from the experience twitchy gibbering messes.....

I realise the dash's are slightly different, but get someone with FAST access to show you the breakdown pic's and you will see what I mean. It takes someone who knows what they are doing 1-2 days min.

Hey newbie,

1-2 days min? Sorry dude but I disagree with you. I am not a mechanic nor am I clueless with tools but this job took me 3-4 hours at most. I am not boasting but hoping I can convince another forum member save himself $1000.

Ric - dont be worried about doing it! Give it a go! I learnt how to pull out the dash by reading guides on the forum here... there is one with pics on how to remove the dash.

A good 2nd hand core should cost between $100-$120. A brand new one I was quoted (from NatRad I think) was $350. I cant say if Ric's quoted price was including a new one or 2nd hand.

All it comes down to is your own decision.

Peace and out.

Hey newbie,

1-2 days min? Sorry dude but I disagree with you. I am not a mechanic nor am I clueless with tools but this job took me 3-4 hours at most. I am not boasting but hoping I can convince another forum member save himself $1000.

Ric - dont be worried about doing it! Give it a go! I learnt how to pull out the dash by reading guides on the forum here... there is one with pics on how to remove the dash.

A good 2nd hand core should cost between $100-$120. A brand new one I was quoted (from NatRad I think) was $350. I cant say if Ric's quoted price was including a new one or 2nd hand.

All it comes down to is your own decision.

Peace and out.

I am quite happy to stand corrected :)

I did say that my only experience with this was a Stagea tho....

  • 2 months later...

Hey if anyone is chasing a heater core, radiator or anything to do with your cooling system I really recommend seeing Abbott's Radiators (natrad) in Welshpool. I ran into a few problems when trying to replace my heater core and these guys helped me out a lot, really top blokes.

Oh and also it IS possible to replace the heater core without removing the whole dash.

Cheers!

Edited by ricsvtr
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...