Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the endless debate

R32 looks better, lighter, handles like a go kart, looks better kitted, not as many around, nicer interior IMO....

driven both and much prefer the R32,

take them for a drive and buy what you like the best, i did this when i was tossing up between 180vs r32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2962380
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i went the r33 for a few reasons.

1. they are a quicker car. sure they weigh a bit more, but they have more power, and a better power/weight ratio. a r32 with 2 people in it weighs about the same as a r33 with 1 person.

2. nicer interior. the are a more modern looking interior with a nicer looking dash.

3. price. its easier to find a cheap clean 33 than it is 32. a clean 32 will often cost more than a clean 33.

4. did i mention that they are quicker?

i was tossing up between a 33 and a 180sx. i had quickly ruled out r32 (unless it had a rb25 in it). i couldn't see the point of the r32. they have about the same power (7kw more power, but less torque) than a sr20 powered silvia/180sx, but weigh about 100kg more so i ruled them out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2962597
Share on other sites

get a 32gtr then, hehe.....

but seriosuly....mado82 made a particular good point :

"3. price. its easier to find a cheap clean 33 than it is 32. a clean 32 will often cost more than a clean 33"

psersonally i think it comes down to visual prefrence...the 32 is still a quik car and can be made quiker very easily.

if u think the 33 is a great lookin car then why wouldnt u get a 33???

i got a 32 cause i think they have more presence and cause i love the history on the 32gtr...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2963076
Share on other sites

33 :P

- Newer

- Better gearbox

- Better motor

A set of coilovers & sway bar and it handles brilliantly

Exhaust, FMIC and a touch more boost and its an awesome daily driver that you can drive to and from the track with no probs at all

Then if u decide you want to go crazy, throw a rb26 in it hehe :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2963197
Share on other sites

i went the r33 for a few reasons.

1. they are a quicker car. sure they weigh a bit more, but they have more power, and a better power/weight ratio. a r32 with 2 people in it weighs about the same as a r33 with 1 person.

Ahh, the shallow mind of a gtst owner

GTR32 > S2 GTST33 > shit on a stick > GTST32

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2963769
Share on other sites

people have been saying that the S2 interior is better than S1..

Funny thing is, Mine is a S1 Type M and the interior is much nicr than 2 of my mates S2's. Theres is Sort of like Canvas. and Mine is like Velvet furr. Could be a Type M thing not too sure on that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2965380
Share on other sites

Im thinking of buying a R32gtr with a R33 GTR engine with massive mods in it.

Would this be a good way to go? Should i get a mechanics report and a compression test?

Mods below: (sorry i wasnt sure how to link it to the mods and i apologise if it seems like i am stealing this thread. Just advice is needed.)

Dynoed at 20psi 360rwkw, 300rwkw at 1 bar tuned by JEM, these are safe tunes as its used as a daily driver.

96,000K on clock

2.6 litre twin turbo coupe with an

R33 GTR engine and Trust 618z turbos

ENGINE AND ELECTRONICS

APEXi Power FC and FC Commander unit

HKS EBC

Forged Pistons

TOMEI 260 degree cams

TRUST adjustable cam gears

HKS 1.2mm head gasket

HKS metal gaskets for plenum and exhaust manifolds

Sard 680cc injectors

SARD fuel regulator

N1 water pump

HKS delivery pipe

Bosch intank 044 pump

Polished Plenum

Oil catch like the powerplay ones + oil Air separator

Cusco Intercooler Intake pipes with Custom Turbo Intake Pipes (aluminuim)

Custom Carbon Fibre Air Box with CAI

Cusco master cylinder brake stopper

Z32 airflow meters, new apexi pod filters

Dual core radiator with cusco air panel diverter

TRUST dual core Intercooler 75mm

TRUST oil cooler and oil filter relocator Power Enterprise magnetic oil filter used

OS Giken twin plate clutch with lighten flywheel

R33 Brembo brakes front/rear with Earls braided brake lines F/R

NISMO circuit link suspension parts

AS - front pillar brace bar, for more rigid chasis

Chasis has been Pop Riverted for extra rigidity from engine bay to front cabin

Adjustable Front Upper Arms (camber)

G4 - Height and dampner adjustable suspension

ARC adjustable castor rods

Rear HICAS cancellation bar

ARC front and rear strut tower braces

ARC front and rear sway bars

NO ABS

TRUST dump/front pipes

3n1/4 inch Kakimoto stainless steel exhaust

Hi flowed Catco cat converter

Push Start Button with kill switch

Battery relocated to the boot

RWD toggle switch made by Dirt Garage

GReddy Electronic Boost gauge and HKS oil temp gauge

4WD controller by Raceworx installed (Duncan)

Turbo timer

Trust Gear Knob

3point immoboliser with auto window lifter, works with turbo timer

Rays Engineering 17x10inch rims, chrome outter and gold innner 2 piece rims 255x40

N1 front bar with front lip on bonnet (carbon fibre)

N1 head lights

N1 lip on the boot

N1 style side skirts

Kenwood MP3 player with Clarion 6inch splits, Clarion 6inch rear speakers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...sg&id=86332

Edited by jakegts
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/3/#findComment-2967210
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...