Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

excelent. this compliments my topic on master cylinders.

ive got some ktype alcons on the front

and ap 4 pots on the rear.

picture056tk8.jpg

picture057zz3.jpg

origonaly i had f40s. (38mm/44mm) same as porche big reds. 340mm rotor

davos2np0.jpg

on 355 and 330 respectivly. now they work realllllly well i can go flat out thrue the kink a wakie no problems. (about 220k) and it pulles up strait and fast.

now i recently changed to the alcons. (piecing together my f40 kit so i can sell it) these run larger pistons. (more leverage) they woprk great buy now i find the fronts are working to hard and there isnt enough going to the rears. (FRONTS BRIGHT ORANGE AND REARS NOT EVAN RED)

my point here is that the 1 inch master on a 32r is great. if only it didnt have the proportioning valve in it. an external one would be the shissel. does a 300xz one have it built in? and its bigger. 27.88 or somehting.

i was looking thru the prb book and theres alot of nissans running 25.4 (1 inch) masters. i just need to find a ilistrated book. or go to the wreckers and rumage thru the box. lol.

seems a few peeps seem to think that the factory pressures are wrong. but its the valve thats the issue. and f**k putting a pedal box with a balance bar in lol.

(and on the v8 supercar. welll sorted,, 5/8 ap cylinders pull type) sbr001 ba coon) the balance bar is alllllll the way over one side to ge the reqired 800ps1/600psi split. prettu usless i rekon.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

no more latent heat issues eith. orange hot disc and no fade what so ever. mmmm titanium :)

b3c91aj2.jpg

or and that brembo lables ment to be white. now its dark blown lol the alcons came with knockback springs on the trailing piston. (large one) slight squeek but that it :)

(and on the v8 supercar. welll sorted,, 5/8 ap cylinders pull type) sbr001 ba coon) the balance bar is alllllll the way over one side to ge the reqired 800ps1/600psi split. prettu usless i rekon.

If it's front bias, then you have the "endurance race" rear master cylinder in it to allow for the fuel load. Change to the "sprint race" rear master cylinder and you won't have that problem.

:stupid: cheers :happy:

you get floating hats?

I think my calipers have knock back springs, as i can always hear the pad's rubbing. I still get bad knock off, i'm hoping a bigger master cylinder will make it a bit better.

yeah. i cleaned the hub properly. ie no rust at all!!!!!! and had them machined. i think it must be wheel bearings cos its only on cornering.

is it definalely front causing the knock back? i have had the GTR and my old R32 do the same thing in the hills on me and it turned out to be rear hub bearings knocking the rear pads back in the caliper.... and it only happened initially when giving it stick in the hills or on the track.

  • 6 months later...

Has anyone heard any reviews on the Project Mu calipers? For an S15 they have 4 pots on 345 x 32mm rotors. The pack with brake lines, adapters and brake pads was $3700 local. Probably cheaper overseas.

I'm in the market for a brake upgrade...

  • 2 years later...
As usual, the tyres are the limiting factor. Past experience has taught me that a set of properly maintained standard R32GTR brakes with decent pads and fluid will outstop any road tyre.

That i can vouch for; The std brakes on my old 260rwkW R32 GT-R never got anywhere near to giving up at either The Creek, Oran or Wakefield, whereas the Falken *cough* Ziex's *cough* had well and truly had enough after about, oh, a lap and a half.

save on brakes- buy shite tyres. lol

(sorry for thread mining :))

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...