Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am chasing a split front / dump pipe for a 33 GTS-t :) , which i have found a few but don't know which one to go for or what to look for when it come's to these.

The 3 that i have found are:

BOS Importing - $420 http://bosimporting.com.au/components/com_...d98e35fd871.jpg

AM Performance (ebay) - $360

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting

Just Jap - $269

http://www.justjap.com/parts/new/exhaust/jjrsplitdumprb.jpg

I'm sorts leaning towars the AM or BOS one's as i have heard some not so nice stories about the Just Jap one.

Opinions and info would be great.

Same situation with hiflow cats as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159667-split-front-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

I have the BOS Importing one. I think the design is very good. The construction (ie some of the welding / finishing) of it leaves a bit to be desired though, but nothing that would affect performance adversely.

i was in the same position not too long ago, after reading a few comments i decided to go with the BOS importing one, as i didnt have enough money to get it professionally installed i decided to give it a go my self, everything lined up 100% with no problems at all :(, the overall construction/welds on the split dump pipe was awsum and made a huge difference to my car, best mod iv bought yet ;)

I bought one of the JJR Stainless version for my R32 and the quality of the finish and welding is excellent.

Just Jap also guarantees the fit and warrants the product for 12 months.

Compared to the quality of the BOS versions that people posted in the thread recently, the JJR ones are MUCH better.

Check this thread for a good snapshot into peoples experiences with both the JJR and the BOS version

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=157267

My 2 cents.

I don't like the wastegate merge point on the JJ or AM ones.

Bos importing looks fine. The CES dump pipe is also good BUT has a poor placement of the o2 sensor as the o2 sensors must be positioned upright.

been running full ces system for 2 years & had no dramas[good performance gains]

been running full ces system for 2 years & had no dramas[good performance gains]

The CES is a top quality design according to their pics on the web site.

Does yours have the o2 sensor mounted upside down?

Apparently its a big no no for o2 sensors as water sits in them when upside down. I can't remember the exact specs but its supposed to be something like no more than 25-30degree's angle from upright.

Any fuel consumption problems? Getting more than 12-13L/100km's?

Sorry to high-jack your thread uras 33.

Is anyone using the 3" bellmouth style dump/front pipe from UAS?? if so what are your opinions on it, i am thinking of getting one very soon.

http://uniqueautosports.com/

newskyengdump.jpg

Definantely DONT go the CES. The wastegate pipe isn't even mandrel bent, it's crush bent. Looks all nice & shiny, but an engineering cockup from start to finish with the O2 sensor issue.

From memory, Bosch specifies that the sensor should be mounted above horizontal so that the section of piping it's on does not collect/drain water.

I do actually have a BOS dump, but got screwed over when he changed supplier. I had my cat back system custom made to fit on the dump I got from him only to have that crack. He sent me a replacement, but didn't fit the same & the exhaust sat twisted & at a different angle (not a good look with twin pipe). I've had a dodgy job done to get the new one to fit to my cat back. When I did some checks it turned out that the first dump had been set up wrong when compared to the original & the new one was correct. So I've spent $1400 on a stainless steel cat back exhaust system only to have to spend more money on it to make it fit right. Money I shouldn't have to spend, but since I sent the first one back I've heard shit. Before that he was talking about helping me out. Very pissed off.

I can say that the new type one does make good power (as you have seen before cubes), but I'm a bit wary of the quality of fitment.

Edited by JazzaR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...