Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

Since it was designed for r33 (not neo) and since neo head has slightly different intake ports and AAC valve bolt pattern -- sure it will require more work to install it to neo engine.

But there is nothing impossible.

I love how everyone who has it fitted wont explain what was necessary to make it fit. This is a forum where people share information, so share, please.

Agreed.

Its the same people saying it "can" be done, or they "have" done it. But wont go as far to to share how it was done

OK it is bolt on;

just use a set of fuel rail spacers or R33 GTS-t rail kit, a R33 throttle body and greddy adapter or even better use an infinity item like in my pics. Very simple :dry: no black magic :P just a bit of re-looming to keep it all factory neat.

post-34927-1174340883.jpg

post-34927-1174340904.jpg

post-34927-1174340920.jpg

Edited by URAS

Standard R34NEO injectors I see... that's weird; general concensus a while back was that R33GTST injectors would be needed (top v side feed)

This is interesting; has dispelled a LOT of myths.

My question is this though; you say to use a R33 TB or other one... won't this remove a few components of the R34 since the NEO TB has a massive donk out the front which controls a few things?

Interesting work; well done!

OK it is bolt on;

just use a set of fuel rail spacers or GTR rail kit, a R33 throttle body and greddy adapter or even better use an infinity item like in my pics. Very simple :D no black magic :P just a bit of re-looming to keep it all factory neat.

Very interesting, some questions;

What o’rings/spacers/adaptors are used to fit the R34GTT (top feed) injectors to the R33GTST (side feed) manifold?

Why can’t you use the R34GTT throttle body? The throttle butterfly is the same ID, is it the bolt spacing that’s different? Possible to use/make an adaptor?

What throttle cable is used?

:dry: cheers :huh:

  • 7 months later...

i know its a old post

but trying to do this atm, i got some R33 Fuel rail spacers, but it doesnt seem a tight fit as it should be? did you use anything else? or there something you can do to make it tight?

also need a R33 ACC valve, as 34 one is bigger

Cheers

Justin

forgot to mention you lose traction control (a given since the TB controls it).... i hate it anyway :D

finished one with trac control still working for those that want to keep it.... piping is a nightmare though.

i know its a old post

but trying to do this atm, i got some R33 Fuel rail spacers, but it doesnt seem a tight fit as it should be? did you use anything else? or there something you can do to make it tight?

also need a R33 ACC valve, as 34 one is bigger

Cheers

Justin

in rail or in the manifold?

in manifold, fuel rail is all good, real tight fit. But put the 33 spacers in the manifold and then injectors into the spacers and isnt tight at all unless only pushed in a little bit and its sort of tight, but not like pushing into the stock manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...