Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey anyone made a custom AFM??

Am thinking of using a Q45 (90mm 3.5") internals and plumbing it into a 4"pipe.

The reason you might say, to slow the air speed through the meter which will give a greater scope. Undoubtly 4" is not much of an increase, but i can also bolt it straight to the 4" turbo inlet and use a 4" filter. I was maxed out at 20psi (260rwkw) so maybe this may help a little.

Plus it is custom and i like tinkering. hehehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/
Share on other sites

your telling me you maxed out a q45 afm at 20psi and only made 260rwkw that doesnt sound right.. more info please

Ah good question.

Had low comp pistons and rb25 head, =extra low comp setup. It was somwhere around the low 7's cr.

When you think about it, 20psi is great for an AFM on rb30 setup, but it was the comp that was killing me, saying that it was an ignition monster, just wanted more and more. Could've thrown 30psi in there and it would've been happy.

However i have high comp standard rb30 pistons in there now so comp is a little more respectful, though would love to make over 300rwkw. So we just see.

Mate its a good experiment just to see how it all goes. plus "Custom" love custom!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2983997
Share on other sites

Hey anyone made a custom AFM??

Am thinking of using a Q45 (90mm 3.5") internals and plumbing it into a 4"pipe.

The reason you might say, to slow the air speed through the meter which will give a greater scope. Undoubtly 4" is not much of an increase, but i can also bolt it straight to the 4" turbo inlet and use a 4" filter. I was maxed out at 20psi (260rwkw) so maybe this may help a little.

Plus it is custom and i like tinkering. hehehe

My understanding is that if you change the internal diameter of the pipe in which the air flow meter resides you change the calibration of the meter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2984524
Share on other sites

My understanding is that if you change the internal diameter of the pipe in which the air flow meter resides you change the calibration of the meter.

thats more than likely trua and something that has already been discussed in the Forced induction section.

the modifictaion to the AFM would require you to create a boxed section one the side of the inlet pipe and im assuming that it would require it to be on a straight section too to ensure the flow is even through the meter.

be some fiddly work to get the mounting threads welded on to keep the unit flat inside your box.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2984602
Share on other sites

Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp.

Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science.

Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top.

Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator)

Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2985319
Share on other sites

Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp.

Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science.

Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top.

Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator)

Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

only reason if that would be tricky is if the underside of the circuit board isnt flat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2985336
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp.

Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science.

Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top.

Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator)

Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

Might be a bit of science in it, the afm reads the airflow and outputs in a logarithmic curve, then the computer outputs that in a linear curve using a conversion table, by increasing the diameter you may throw the curve well out of whack. How's it all going anyway? im curious to know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-3135213
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, I don't know much about air flow meters but i need one for my 95 series 2 gtst skyline.

Can anyone advise me on what one to get and where to get it from?

Cheers.

You will get a better response in the Forced Induction section.

stick with STD or if you have a Power FC and are chasing power try a Z32..

Search in FI if you are unsure about this

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-3203032
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...