Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that GTR came 1.5seconds from the track record set by derik pingle in his Lola F1. pretty damn good to stay that close to the Lola!!! it was awsome to watch tho, he was with a small team of skylines at the gatton sprints wasnt he???

CJ

there was an outfit there with 2 or 3 lines, One of them was a 33 with a smallblock shoehorned in. The giant car was independant of these guys tho. They didnt appear at qr on the weekend either. A huge disapointment to me as I really wanted to watch that car for more than one corner a la gatton. No matter, theres always next time.

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well from my last few enquires:

Stoptech 332*32 hatted rotors + ST40 calipers + braided lines + pads = $2280US approx $2850 Aust. Delivered. Note this is ex US, I haven't got a price from the local distributor as they need to email the States.

Alcon 335*28 hatted rotor + 4 pot caliper + lines + pads+fluid + $3808+gst+freight ex PWR direct.

AP Racing CP5200 + 330x32 hatted rotors + lines & pads = $3200 + freight. EX Racebrakes (pick one)

The endless stuff (6 pot on R33 hatted 324 rotors) is listed as Y436,590 plus freight. Ex Greenline.

So they appear to be reasonably priced to me.

Oh, and Roy, I have delicate little feet. Like a ballerina.

Apparently the new distributor for Stoptech gear is now V-Sport. Tony who I spoke to was very helpfull & knowledgeable.

Also, from what I understand there is a Brembo kit for a Z32 with a 332x32 rotor & an F40 caliper. Has anyone used these?

LOL..you seemed like you were a bit disappointed at dinner with your times up until the last session. I was stoked to see you held your breath for the last session and sucked out a great PB :)

By my timer i did the 1:52.04. So they gave me 0.04sec on my quickest lap. I would have lved if they gave me 0.05sec. 1:51.999 sounds a lot faster.

They are very beautiful. Can I ask who you bought them from?

Got them thru Perth Brake Parts in Kewdale

It was a toss up between these and a set of AP Racing, personally I preferred the AP Racing Calipers / Disks, but went for the Brembos on account of percieved originality......

djr81 i finally checked our rotors and they are 343mm X 32mm fronts....backs are same dia but thinner...didnt check width sorry.

Thanks man, I sort of suspected they might have been. The 343mm size is about all you can stuff under a 17" rim. Even then it works out to be 13.5" diameter. Which leaves a nominal 1.75" on each side. I say nominal because there isn't anything like that amount of room.

actually i checked the rears again...with a measuring device other then my eyes....backs are 323 X 1"(bout 25.4mm)

I measured fronts when we just put new rotors on, and i eyed them off with the backs and they looked similiar, well 20mm smaller in diameter they actually are.

Recap Fronts= 343mm X 32mm

Backs= 323mm X 25.4mm

Alcon monoblock 4pistons front and rear.

Run SBS Dual carbons up front and Carbon Ceramics on the arse.

My apologies for the fark around with the half arsed info.

Edited by r33_racer

Wakefield Park 14/15 April 2007, Improved Production Over 2 litres, pole position, fastest lap (1.063383) and 3 wins from 3 races. Less than 2/10ths off the lap record set in 2002 ie; before control tyres.

TWB_7968resized.jpg

TWB_8606resized.jpg

Doesn't seem to me to be past it's use by date.

:D cheers :thumbsup:

PS; well done to Dave and the BSM boys, all that hard work paid off.

nice one dave! mmm he is such a good pilot. nice to see them back on top. and a new paint scheme too... congratulations.

are they still running in CT too?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...