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I have noticed that the input and output voltages for the afm are different. The emanage outputs slightly more voltage than is coming in....

At idle there is about 0.03 to 0.08 more volts. I think if the voltage is different, and im running standard injectors and afm, that its going to cause problems with the standard ecu trying to compensate fuel and timing?

Should the afm map be adjusted in its entirety to reduce the voltage back until the input and output match at idle?

that is usually the lag correction playing funny buggers, remove it like described above.

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OK heres another one which im not 100% about. Just adjusting the ignition timing because I have a slight miss at idle. Plugged the timing light in with the laptop on datalogging and found some funny results.

The timing was at nearly 0 degrees on crank with the tps connected and about 800rpm - datalog showing 14 - 16 degrees

Disconnected the tps, idle went to 1000, timing on crank goes to 15 degrees - datalog shows 20, i think...

Left the tps on, adjusted the timing up to 15 degrees, from 0 which it was on. Reset base idle on the acc valve because it was idling a bit high.

Now the datalogger is showing 0 - 2 degrees.

Im assuming what I have done here is correct because it seems to be idling a lot better, and when you give it a big rev from idle it doesnt shudder.

I have both the crank and cam wires connected.

So.... The emanage datalogger is showing ignition adjustment from 15 degrees and not the actual timing. Does anyone know if this is correct??

OK heres another one which im not 100% about. Just adjusting the ignition timing because I have a slight miss at idle. Plugged the timing light in with the laptop on datalogging and found some funny results.

The timing was at nearly 0 degrees on crank with the tps connected and about 800rpm - datalog showing 14 - 16 degrees

Disconnected the tps, idle went to 1000, timing on crank goes to 15 degrees - datalog shows 20, i think...

Left the tps on, adjusted the timing up to 15 degrees, from 0 which it was on. Reset base idle on the acc valve because it was idling a bit high.

Now the datalogger is showing 0 - 2 degrees.

Im assuming what I have done here is correct because it seems to be idling a lot better, and when you give it a big rev from idle it doesnt shudder.

I have both the crank and cam wires connected.

So.... The emanage datalogger is showing ignition adjustment from 15 degrees and not the actual timing. Does anyone know if this is correct??

in the Paramater settings, in the Vehicle bab, theres an input that says Off Set Angle.

this is used to off set the data logging angle to match the actual timing.

have a play with that and adjust it till your data log timing matched your base timing.

Beauty. Did that ^^. Timing now works a treat.

Had missfire at idle only, and couldnt track it down. Ended up reverting the injector lag time back to 0.7 by doing a new file and fixed!!

Had no corrections anywhere on any maps apart from chainging to VG30DETT AFM both times, so im assuming it didnt like the lag time at 0.

Was a very noticeable missfire, and at low rpm's at very light throttle would bounce off the backlash in the diff. So if you set the lag time to 0 and have this happen, this could be what it was.

URAS, I wanted to ask one thing for a long time. What I have a remapped ecu and install EMU later ? Will I be able to change the remapped data that way? Or it only works with stock unchipped ecu ?

I have had 660's in but I took them out to get them tested. I am running standard injectors currently when I have this misfire problem.

Try creating a brand new file, and input your data into that if you have any map adjustments. I have found its best not to mess around with any of the maps near the idle area as the stock ecu takes care of these areas fine.

The emanage defaults rb25 injectors to 0.7 i think. This is what solved my problem.

Heres what I also did to try to trace my missfire:

- Disassemble CAS: Series 2 CAS comes apart and blew it out with compressor.

- Check on the throttle setting of emanage to make sure closed throttle voltage is 0.4V. If not, adjust it via the secrews on the TPS.

*** The engine needs to be fully warmed up before you do this (so the temp needle is 1/2)***

- Reset ECU by shorting pins under the dash, then set base idle and timing.

- Disconnect TPS and set base idle at 650 - 700rpm via screw on ACC.

- Set base timing to 15 degrees with timing light on #1 coilpack with ignition lead extension.

- Reconnect TPS.

This process solved the problem for me, although if you do a search you will find a heap more info on idle missfire.

BTW I have a series 2 r33.

Edited by courier33

Trent...what would cause my car not to start as soon as i plug in my plug n play harness...i checked the wiring was ok it does to me as the harness was or seems to be already modded for the gtst. i didn't plug the EMU in as i thought by plugging just the harness in it should be ok to get it to my tuner..just trying to save some dollars installing the unit myself...any thoughts

Trent...what would cause my car not to start as soon as i plug in my plug n play harness...i checked the wiring was ok it does to me as the harness was or seems to be already modded for the gtst. i didn't plug the EMU in as i thought by plugging just the harness in it should be ok to get it to my tuner..just trying to save some dollars installing the unit myself...any thoughts

without the EMU plugged in the car cant start as half the wires are doing nothing...... you need to plug emu in and select your car to make it start. Best bet take the whole lot in boxes to the tuner if your not sure.

URAS, I wanted to ask one thing for a long time. What I have a remapped ecu and install EMU later ? Will I be able to change the remapped data that way? Or it only works with stock unchipped ecu ?

it works fine on remaps.

without the EMU plugged in the car cant start as half the wires are doing nothing...... you need to plug emu in and select your car to make it start. Best bet take the whole lot in boxes to the tuner if your not sure.

ah ha thanks mate...

^^^^ hmmm just modded my GTR PnP harness to suit my 33 GTS-T today. that would explaine why it didnt start. so im guessing u would need to hook it up to a lap top to select the car. well its goin in to be dyno tuned tomorrow so hopefully everything works when they hook it up.

  • 2 weeks later...

A big thanks to Trent for his advice and knowledge here. I am now past my first hurdle. Now to decide if i progress with the EMU or switch to the Powerfc I bought during my troubleshooting!

Have posted details here: http://www.emanageforums.com/forums/showth...p=5100#post5100

In summary the fix for my rough idle, fuel smoke and bad missing problem (engine wouldn't rev past 3000-4000rpm under moderate loads) was solved using the Injector adaptor #15901504 and setting I/J lag times to 0. I have a version C board which probably explains why I needed the I/J adaptor where other people may not.

Wegs

Edited by wegs

Has anyone here had boost cut kick in when using the emanage ultimate? I gave it a squirt tonight and at around 3.5k to 4k the engine cut out completely and fired back up again. Same type of cut-out as when I had the wastegate actuator disconnected (by accident) back when it was standard, and gave it a bootfull.

I have read that the emanage ultimate has built in boost cut feature, but im not sure if this relates to cars which use pressure sensing, or the r33 which uses the AFM to detect it.

Go into Map Selection in the paramter settings (click on the little blue car icon) then tick the box with boost cut feature infront of it.

do some data logging and log at which RPM and which Voltage the AFM is hitting the cut.

look at the voltage just before it cuts out and type that into its corresponding RPM in the boost cut window. make every other box after that 5.1v.

so what you'd do is if it was kicking in at 3.85v @ 4500rpm is:

Boost Cut Feature

500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000 7500

3.8--3.8---3.8---3.8----3.8----3.8----3.8----3.8---3.8---5.1---5.1---5.1---5.1---5.1--5.1

log data till you get it right.

Edited by SECURITY

From what Ive seen you can wire in the factory pressure sensor to the analogue input and output so you can change the voltage that the ecu sees

it works in much the same way as the afm boost cut feature Security talked about

you just clamp the voltage that come thru the sensor at the point where its happening

In the manual it says to do this to cars that Use both the AFM and Boost sensor

but I have been able to run my R34 with only using the AFM adjustments

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