Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everyone seems to be creating these threads lately, so I didn't want to be left out.

My car is now sold, I delivered it to Ballarat this evening. I haven't really noticed any sadness at it's passing, either because the long period of time it took to sell brought me acceptance, or it just hasn't sunk in yet

next car is still being decided upon, with it's requirements that it be reasonably cheap (the whole point of selling my line), and yet still be fun, and have potential for future modification once debt levels reach 0.

There's a few candidates, no real decisions yet though. Would have been nice to get a new car on the dyno today, but never mind.

See some of you at rays in 10 hours

post-17545-1174809921.jpg

post-17545-1174809863.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161616-my-skyline-is-sold/
Share on other sites

what? Crispy Fries Jnr is sold?? So sad.....

that car had nice wheels :laugh:

Thanks man, I loved those rims :P

If anyone has suggestions for fun, interesting cars for up to 6k I'm open to suggestions, I'm also up for a challenge of making something different go and handle well :)

If anyone has suggestions for fun, interesting cars for up to 6k I'm open to suggestions, I'm also up for a challenge of making something different go and handle well :P

Suggestions...

Jap: Go for a Laurel or something. not as quick but it can be played with later. 4 door too!

Aussie: VN-VP SS commodore or EB-ED XR8. Just sounds good and a bit of fun...

Cheap to run: N14 SSS pulsar. SR20 goodness and good run around.

there are so many choices!!!

An EG Civic. Despite what most would think, they are alot of fun :whistling:

bwahahahahaa :P

yes ive driven one ...

ive thrashed one ...

they roll worse than my munro ... they are fwd, they have no power ... they are 1.7 litres of shitness, shall i continue ?

omg its mattel ! never buy a civic !!!!! that is all. lol

whats wrong with a civic? my 25 year old civic is still running lol.....15+ km/ltr - only problems is that gear 3 seems to pop out...so i have to hold that and drive it...but i only use that car to go to work sometimes and to deliver drinks to some vending machine in lilydale (and to take my dog to the vet). Maybe I should have poped that on the RE Customs dyno for laughs (supposed to have 45kw of power at the engine - so about 10 kw at the wheels?)

for 6k justin - there are a couple of mr2s on the j-spec website....is this just for the track/deca/drags etc?

for 6k justin - there are a couple of mr2s on the j-spec website....is this just for the track/deca/drags etc?

It needs to be my daily driver, and it would be nice if it did the others as well :)

Doesn't need to look the best, just needs to be mechanically sound

It needs to be my daily driver, and it would be nice if it did the others as well :)

Doesn't need to look the best, just needs to be mechanically sound

ah ok...just go to my bro and tell him you will buy his s2k for 6 grand hehehe....

actually wait...dont do that...cos then he wont sell it to me...

Sad to see the 4 door go Justin, Up your budget and buy my celsior!!

You can buy some half decent cars for around 150,000 yen in Japan, that will give you some change from you budget.

Free plug for my homies at J-Spec!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saw this video today from Adam LZ.    Long story short is he is claiming that the load from the engine fan once the fan clutch heats up(engaged) is increasing the getrag rattle(at idle) when you don't have a dual mass flywheel.  Before I go buying an electric fan setup .... Anyone heard of this ?    I must admit when my car is cold the getrag is pretty quiet and I do notice the rattle after it is all warmed up. I've always assumed this is due to the gearbox oil temp and tolerances of metal.       
    • Yep it sure does.   Tone wheel lines up in the same spot perfectly.    
    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
×
×
  • Create New...