Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys I just brought my first skyline an r33 gtst a few weeks ago..

IM lookign for some advice on modifications etc... ideally Im hoping for around 180-190kw atw however im sure as I say that once I achieve it ill want more..

Now this isnt my first turbo car so I have some idea of the work required.

Modifications wise now the car currently doesnt have much has:

17" AVS Rims with 235/45 tyres up front and 255/40 on the rear

Standard Exhaust (soon to be replaced with a full 3" system including split dump and hi flow cat.)

POD Filter In Perspex Airbox

Turbosmart Plumback BOV

GFB Boost Controller running 10psi

C's Short SHift Kit

Now all this stuff was on the car when I brought it and my first modification will definately be the exhaust

Now I have a few questions lol sorry about my essay.

Will I require a larger turbo for these power figures or will a stock or hi flowed one be capable?

IS a 3" zorst big enough?

Producing that kind of power I dont really have to look at forged internals etc do I??

Im Hoping to Go aftermarket engine management in either the form of Wolf3d, Microtech or Haltech are these ok and can anyone make a better recommendation?

Currently the car has a stock suspension setup I was lookign at coilovers but not sure of the practicability of them since the car will mostly be for street use..Will a decent strut, spring,sway bar, strut bar package be enough? And if so recommendations?

Finally what else do I have to take into consideration when looking at this power and any other suggestion with parts etc??

Also and good tuning shops after spending most of the day down at RE Customs and having be there a few other times I liek their work and the way the guys look after the cars?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161729-help-with-my-new-car/
Share on other sites

fuelpump, exhaust, fmic, turbs to 12psi will net you 190-200kw, r34 turbs might net you 200-210 on a happy dyno

3" is good enuffish for 300kw(pushing it) so unless your gonna build a beast your fine

once you do all this your pushing your engine past its stock recomendations, could blow in 10 days or 10 years, but 200kw is nothing for the 25, once you hit 250kw+ let it cross your mind

if you can, get your hands on a rb25 pfc if not you can always safc it or if you already have a tuner in mind see what he specializes in

suspension, sydneykids setup is tried and tested, see here

oh get some decent tires and make sure your brakes arnt in shit ass condition

hf

Before you start pushing the engine...my first question is you have a front mounted intercooler? IT'S A MUST. If not...your turbo will not last long as you boost it. You'll see. I have 300kw at wheels and I upgraded in stages. I personally would use standard turbo until goes off, or alternatively you take it off and sell it and buy a better version. How long you wanna have your car off road?

PM me if you like and I take you trough my stages.

I had 191kw at wheel with single stage boost control, front intercooler, standard computer standard exhaust, HKS T3/T4e turbo, external wastegate HKS and HKS mainfold(kit). I had to upgrade the down pipe.

Question is you wanna make noise or power?

Cheers,

EUG

- fmic (quality matters)

- Std turbo @ 12psi (be prepared to pay for hi-flow, just incase the turbo fails, due to the ceramic exhaust wheel flying off. Mine lasted at least 2yrs and i sold it after i took it off, others have lasted 1hour)

- ECU = Many options and it all depends on who you want to work on your car.

- I have heard good thing about Ray (and his team) at RE Customs. He likes to tune Power FC's

- I have seen great work from Robert @ Sabbadin. He is great with facbrication and modification, knows his RB's well and is an awesome tunner on Wolf and PowerFC ecu's. He is very fussy about his work and take pride in the finished result.

- Personally i use a Wolf 3D V4, on my 33, and it is great. The Wolf 3D V500 shits all over the Pfc, Microtech and Haltech, it is MAP or MAF compatable, and is compairable to the MOTEC ecu's.

- Upgraded fuel pump is also recommended.

- DEFINATELY UPGRADE SUSPENSION. The Bilsteins mentioned above are great for street use, are very comfortable and handle well even on the track. I personally am about to use TEIN Super Street, they have 32 damper adjustments to change the stiffness of the shock, from soft (for hwy/street), to hard (for track use). If you intend to occationally go through the twisties, etc, then suspension is one of the most important items, EVEN B4 YOU BUY THE ECU!

- BRAKES: No need to go too serious hear. A pair of slotted rotors for the front (eg:DBA4000), quality pads and most important BRAKE FLUID (eg:Motul SBF600). Once again when you go through the twisties, you want to make sure you brakes don't get too hot and fade, ending you day short.

My recommended order of modifications:

- Exhaust

- High quality air filter in standard air box (good to about 220rwkw)

- FMIC

- Coilovers

- Whiteline Handling Pack; with additonal front camber adj bushes and rear sub-frame pinapples.

- Brakes; slotted rotors, performance pads and performance fluid

- ECU

- Boost controller

- Braided brake lines (Make sure they are ADR approved)

If you have any further question, etc, don't hesitate to drop me a PM

Good Luck and safe driving

:P

the std breaks are not too bad unless ur going on th etrack. Just get some new fluid and some decent pads initailly.

ECU has to be up higher on the list...unless ur doing a re-map who cant really do shit witht he stock ecu.

1. Zorst, turbo back

2. ecu + cheep boost controller. $22 ftw initially, nice EBC later to hold boost better.

3. hi-flo or equiv turbo + fmic - at the same time. Will need a new AFM to run the bigger numbers and either a pod or new intake pipe for the stock box.

5. suspension. shocks, springs, sway bars, pineapples - do this all at once and get it set right.

if u wanna run to 250, then 1-3 is definate. If you wanna be able to drive it fast then 1-4 is a must.

Then you will find ur coil packs and plugs are crap. And buy new ones - another $650

Clutch will not last - $1k-2k

GB and Diff should be fine.

You might like some nice wheels...always looks good.

Thanks guys I appreciated all the replies too date I have approx 3-5grand laid out for starting mods reckong this will be enough to net my 190kw mark??

I already have an exhaust on the way so thats fine, boost controller I have a crappy single stage so it will do for now..

So I figure next should be the front mount and some sort of aftermarket ecu..

Now my next questions Ive heard that with nearly all the front mounts the body of the car needs to be cut to fit piping with of course means mr plod doesnt like it..any options here?

Adding on to this is it worthwhile upgrading to the z32 afm of will mine be fine for the power Im lookign for??

This is not as simple as plugging it in and driving away. To do this you either have to be running a full aftermarket setup, or a Power FC. The Z32 is not required for 200kw atw mark.

In your Case Andy, This is the way I would go about modifications.

GET IT SERVICED.

Check timing belt has been replaced. Change all fluids and belts, etc. No point leaning on a basically stock engine if something simple is going to break ruining all your fun.

Then fit the exhaust. As others have said, get some proper suspension into it and some decent pads and fluid. Get a feel for the car first. Find out how the car handles, what it's limitations are as well aswhat yours are. An ideal way to do this is to do an advanced driving course, such as This.

Then start chasing power.

I will sign up for the driving course probs once IM certified as a member..if theres still spots left.. Thanks Scottie Ottie

On the topic of serviced im not sure if I should trust the old family mechanic any good options??

My step bro works with Ford (i dont trust em for shit)

I also have mates at both Nispro and APS but not sure about that either..

and I know NIssan will butt rape me :)

So any good suggestions...

Edited by zorb_rules

Yeah lol I kno that but I kinda of liek the idea of having the one mechanic see my car over and over I dont want somethin major to go wrong and my lil family mechanic have to do soemthin like rebuild an engine.. when he is used to working on holdens and fords lol.. I had enough trouble getting him to remove the turbo and stuff off my precious car lol

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don’t be silly enough to think it’ll never happen either 
    • I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.
    • New engine block time. Up to you whether you want to keep going down this road with this project. Unfortunately a lot of these cars are like this. The road to getting these cars into decent shape is long and not fun for reasons that you're discovering. 
    • Essay time. First things first, an RB running stock turbo and boost levels shouldn't get so bad as to stall from reversion if the recirc valve has been deleted. Should get a little fluffy and annoying, but in my experience, not so bad as to stall. Of course, every car is a bit different, so it remains possible that stalling will happen. So, running with no recirc valve is somewhat of an option, for otherwise stock stuff. Atmo BOVs cause all sorts of shit, even on an otherwise stock setup. Only gets worse the higher the boost and the bigger the turbo. At that point you really need to go for a different ECU and no AFM. Rebuilding the stock recirc valve configuration is not hard. You just need a stock or aftermarket BOV with the appropriate adapter for the 2 bolt flange on the back of the J pipe, and to get/make an appropriate ~1" pipe to get the air back to the turbo inlet, and to possibly modify the inlet (if it is not stock) to take the recirc pipe back in. Not hard. Just takes some cutting and welding. Putting an R35 type AFM into the car anywhere is not as simple as just buying the AFM and throwing it in. You will also need to buy the appropriate boss that will then need to be welded onto the pipe where you're installing it. You can clearly see why by looking at the photo posted above. They are not a "simple" swap for a stocker. You can't put on in place of the stock AFM. You can put one in place of the stock AFM, if you get the mounting boss and weld it to some pipe and otherwise make that pipe piece work like the stock AFM housing. Or you can buy such an adapter, either complete with the 4 bolt flange for the air box, or without, for varying degrees of work needed to then make it fit your stock airbox or some pod filter or whatever you have going on. Oh, and the R35 AFM is not plug and play. The wiring is different, but changing that is trivial. The plug is also different so you either end up repinning the original wires onto the new plug, or you just use a short adapter. If you weld a boss to the cold side pipe, the cold side pipe really wants to be 3", otherwise the scaling on the meter can get a bit weird, but whatever the pipe size, it's not as easy as just using the (fully documented in the Nistune doco) simple method for choosing R35 AFM in X" pipe size in the software, because the scaling will already be a bit different. Anyway, all of this has been comprehensively worked through on the Nistune forums, so there is full knowledge available. I would use a Link/Haltech before I would bother putting an AFM into a cold side pipe. That's a lot of effort for a bodge. Nistune is great, can work well even at fairly high power levels, but you are stuck with the limitations of it being the stock ECU, which includes needing to use an AFM, which is not always convenient for every set of modifications. You have to have a think about what you already have, what you want to have, and decide early if you'd be better off jumping ship to an aftermarket ECU. This so you don't waste time and money doing things 2 or 3 times. Never heard of ECUmaster. Sounds like a backyard operation. If there are good tuners for it where you are, and it is a solid product, then it will be fine. We're only talking about an R engine here. Back in the day they all ran on crude nasty early 90s ECUs and they were fine. You don't need a rocket surgeon's ECU to run one.
    • So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems,  could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress.  After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome.  Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4   Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.
×
×
  • Create New...