Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 8th of April i have a Drag event i am taking part in

I was wondering is there any point me stripping out my car and removing my headlight in front of my Pod

Will i get any benefit Stripping the interior or will it be a wast of time

Im hoping to get a 13.99 or better

Yea thats what i was thinking passenger seat out and clear the boot spear tire etc.

at the end of the day im not going down for competition i just want to beat my personal best.

Will removing the headlight and getting cold air to the pod be a good idea or will i just create more drag

yeah 13s is easy with 200rwkw

i got 13.7 @ 105mph with a cold wet track and wheelspin thru first (stupid diff)

to launch generally lower rpm is better, forget trying to launch at 3000rpm, it wont work unless u have a bulletproof setup

try launching at say 1200rpm and clutch slip it progressively

yeah mate, clear the boot out that should be the first thing you do...

Why would you waste your time stripping the boot? the parts in the boot dont weigh bugger all, and in a rwd you want as much weight in the rear of the car anyway to help with traction off the line.

It sounds like you need alot more practice, if you cant get a decent time with that much power and your suspension/tyre setup then your obviously doing something wrong (no offence aaron) , people on this forum have got into the 13's easy with just exhaust mods.

Practice practice practice.

Edited by nizmo_freek

I'm getting 13.7s with all the gear left in and 274/293 rwkw(depends on who's dyno you believe)

tyres down to 20 lb and launch at 4200 rpm. Willowbank sticks like shit to a blanket so it bites pretty damn good and just goes.

Any more revs and i go up in smoke. much less and it bogs down.

Just practice your driving style. Play with your tyre pressures. Draggin is not street running. The little things you do on a strip can all play a part in lowering your et. Gear change is critical, Get it through the gate as quick as you can and experiment with your shift points. I get my best results swapping cogs at 6500 rpm. any more and my times are slower.

A skyline drivetrain can easily handle anything you can dish out at 200 kw's so dont be afraid to give it some. There are cars running with double my horsepower on stock drive trains and hard launches and i havnt seen one break yet. Not to say that it wont happen but hey! you wanna go draggin you have to be prepared to accept the odd failure.

None taken man

I know i need to practice thats y ill be so stoked with myself to pull a 13.99 ha ha

also y i was asking if stripping will make much difference but as most say it will be a wast of time.

Ill just have to try some different launch points and gear change points and hope for the best.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...