Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4th gear synchro's are cactus, and there's something majorly wrong with the selector fork and/or rod for 3rd/4th.

fix'n or replacin' - I don't really mind, as long as I have a properly working 'box at the end of it! :)

See last post for current situation . . . . all good so far !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162878-help-my-r33s-gearbox-is-rooted/
Share on other sites

Saw one in the FS section the other day for $1550, claims it came out of a low km car...

That's Stoney up in Sydney?

I've phoned around a few places, sounds like $500->$1500 to rebuild, depending on what's busted-up in there.

Oh - and Nismoid: 4th's synchros have been going steadily downhill for ages, I think that's lead directly to the selector problem. The actual Cogs feel Primo ! ! :pirate:

yeah i busted my 3rd/4th selector fork in half.... just picked up a second hand box and scored a good one!

its a bit of a gamble.... but if you dont want that, just rebuild it...

just for parts from nissan alone, all bearings, all syncros and a 3rd/4th gear selector fork was quoted at ~$1400 trade

so depends what parts you need, and whats wrong with the box

-Ruffels

hey mate, a good place to get a rebuild is 360 gearboxes, they are in kilsyth.

The guy who owns it name is bryan.

he knows skylines back to front. so he would be your best bet.

Address

Fcty7/ 229 Colchester Rd

Kilsyth

VIC, 3137

Australia

Contact Details

Ph:

(03) 9761 6866

http://www.360gearboxesdiffs.com.au/first.html

i got a sweet GTR box (cluster only) you can have for $500 it is dissasembled for inspection and all the parts you need are the same as gtst. located in keysie/dandy area.

Edited by URAS

So, 'box is dropped, Here's some of what came out with the (pretty, shiny) oil:

Pretty_Oil.jpg

Plug_2.jpg

Note the Lil' clip here, left of the plug - that dropped out with the oil. Who KNOWS what else lies at the bottom of the Box?!

Plug_1.jpg

Pretty_Oil_and_Shiny_bits.jpg

Saw plenty of Synchro-shards, and OOOHH BOY is there some filings in that-thaaar oil !

Competition Gearboxs in Croydon. (03) 97233380 or 0408650060. They specialize in Jap gearbox's.

Factory 6/35 Lusher Rd, Croydon.

My mate Kris (O-Y-K-B on here) got his rebuilt through them an his was probably in worse condition than yours. Good quality work done at a reasonable price (cheaper than a secondhand box) . Price all depends on the ammount of damage i guess.

best of luck

Yeah, thanks abcent - A mate in the trade is seeing in the morning if he can get a changeover from Japanese Gearbox Wholesalers in Rowville, if not I'll probably flip a coin between 360 and Competition - they both sound pretty good, and charge similar rates, and they're practically a stone's throw from each other !

I did the same in my 33 twice :stupid:

I had the second box rebuilt with a new 3rd/4th fork bearings and syncros. Cost about $1500. It seems fine to drive I just have to go easy with the gear changes.

Goodluck with it anyway.

Edited by WHITER33GTS-T

Talked to Simon @Competition gearboxes today, He said the input shaft is rooted, as well as the 3rd/4th selector sleeve. 3rd/4th selector fork is SHATTERED, with half lying on the bottom of the gearbox case - 4th syncro is more or less gorne!

Shall see how We go with the parts/rebuild - fingers crossed !

Talked to Simon @Competition gearboxes today, He said the input shaft is rooted, as well as the 3rd/4th selector sleeve. 3rd/4th selector fork is SHATTERED, with half lying on the bottom of the gearbox case - 4th syncro is more or less gorne!

I had Simon rebuild my gearbox about 3years ago.

I needed a new reverse gear (wtf did the previous owner do to it??) & the 4th gear synco was crunching when changing above 4000rpm.

He fixed the reverse and is all good 3 years on....but the 4 gear syncro problem reappeared after close to 2 years had passed....and i do NOT flat shift :)

thinking about another rebuild now....:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...