Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

i want put a bigger turbo or hi flow the stock one? Which is better as i dont wanna change internals but want my engine not to blow or fry a piston. What is the best turbo for minimal lag, most power and a good amount of power at the wheels with standard RB25DET.

thanks

JOHN

If you're after response and good average power across the rev range, then I'd recommend a highflow - good bang for buck and should easily see 220-250rwkw with the right supporting mods.

If you have enough coin and are after more power whilst still maintaining decent response, then the HKS GT2835 ProS is also a good choice.

pfc + 740cc injectors + z32 + HKS GT2835 PRO S

Isn't 740cc overkill for anything under 350rwkw? 550cc injectors should be more than adequate.

Depends on how much power your after mate? and whether or not you may want more power in the future again!

again it depends on your supporting mods as well. sooner or later your going to need to change ur fuel pump, injectors, clutch, ecu...etc...and all of which costs more money.

imo, i'd go a HIFLOW. the hiflowed turbo will give you the best of both worlds, more power than stock and pretty good response as well. and best bang for buck!

my two cents,

goodluck mate

i would recommend the gcg hiflow, i had one of them on my rb25, got a vg30 ehxaust housing adapted to it and results were very good, i was more than happy with it. made 258kw at wheels on 15psi, my engine is built however but still expect a signifigant gain over standard turbo.

I'd go for a GCG highflow turbo. Personally tried and tested. Close to stock spool time, but huge power. It's ball bearing.

Bolts striaght up. No modding lines etc. Includes everythign you need e.g. gaskets, washers, etc etc.

Cheap -- 1750.

The precision turbo highflows in the group buy section are also good - 1550. ball bearing too. I personally haven't tested them, but I know people who have, and i'd get one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...