Project 24

[Sean W]

Just read 15 pages,

great build cameron, awesome dedication!

any final numbers yet? any more trips round the block? loved reading your description of spool and coilovers after 2.5 years in a magna keep it up!

-Sean

[murrayis]

Im thinking of getting this notch machined but seems ill have to take out about a 15mm notch height wise

Do you not think this will weakin the piston though.

Im thinkin ill have to go down this route iv come so far want to complete it then i can show the full build

I hear alot about the 4agze piston fitments but know where can i find someone that has done the build just alot of hearsay

Hmm 15mm is alot, I would be talking to a good engineer first.

You could always remove the squirters?

The only thing I know about using the 4agze piston is that they sit shy of the desk by 2 - 3 mm, does yours do this?

[murrayis]

Just read 15 pages,

great build cameron, awesome dedication!

any final numbers yet? any more trips round the block? loved reading your description of spool and coilovers after 2.5 years in a magna keep it up!

-Sean

Nothing so far, Have a 2005 Honda Accord Euro now as I start a new job on Monday. I'll keep this thread updated

[jpo]

I've just read everything in this thread to-date & am following it with great anticipation! I'd really like to do this build at some stage as well and am really hoping it works out for you - kudos to you sir for taking-on this monumental build on!

I had a few questions if you don't mind?

- Are the specs of the pistons etc on the first page the current/updated ones?

- Was it any bother to fit the N1 oil pumps & water pumps from the RB26 or do they just bolt-up?

- Did you use the RB20 oil squirters for the pistons or the RB25 ones?*

*I'm not sure if there's any difference between the RB20 & 25 ones but I know there's a fundamental design difference between the RB25 & 26 piston cooling methods (spray-pattern on the RB25 pistons VS directional squirting with the RB26 with cooling channels in the pistons) so just wondering if the angle of spray dispersal or volume would be different for the RB20's naturally slimmer bores VS the 25's.

JP

[murrayis]

JP,

The specs on the first page are the pistons I have in the engine currently.

As for the squirters they are the standard Rb20det items, The oil pump fitted up fine I changed the gears to some billet items, the only change to the water pump was to weld and redrill the e-longated hole on the water pump as it overhung the block water ways therefore leaks like a little b%$ch.

Thanks for your comments.

Cheers

Cameron

[jpo]

By gears, what gears exactly do you mean & was this necessary to do in order to have it work?

Also, do you have any pictures of these modifications?

[murrayis]

Hi,

By gears I mean I replaced the oil pump internals to billet items;

(1) To reduce the chances of them failing at 9000rpm

(2) They slightly increased the oil pressure without having issues of oil starvation

(3) I was a tight arse at the time and couldn't afford the nitto pump I wanted

Sorry I don't have any pictures of the oil pump internals.

[murrayis]

So I was giving the engine a once over when I notised some oil on the timing belt which had been making it slip past the pullies taking the nice blue office the gates belt.

On investigation it appears that the oil pump seal is leaking around the crank.... I have decided to play it safe and pull the oil pump off while the engine and sump are still in the car.

Is this something difficult to do? I had a think about it and I am pretty sure I can pull it off without much effort while replacing the pump with a Nitto alternative.

Any advice will be gladly accepted.

Cheers

Cameron.

[zebra]

you need to drop the sump. Otherwise you can't get the pump off...although you can loosen it...so it may be enough to replace the gasket.

Or just buy a tube of sikaflex

[murrayis]

Why would I need to remove the sump? the oil pump should slide on and off I would have thought, thou it has been a while since I put the engine together.

lol I could but its leaking from the crank seal so wont help much.

[Rolls]

My oil pump was leaking after a rebuild ever so slightly, just covered the edges in high temp gasket sealant. Hasn't leaked a drop in 4,000kms since.

[zebra]

see the bit with the nut on it that sits down from the pump....it fouls on the front of the sump if you just try to slide it off.

[murrayis]

Ah Poop... I forgot about that bit lol $200 of Royal Purpil I will need to replace.

[Wheezy]

Question.

Why would the whole oil pump need to come off when just the seal needs to come off?

Does the seal not sit between the pump and the cog that the timing belt goes onto?

[zebra]

I think youre right, you may be able to loosen the pump and jiggle it enough to be able to get the seal over the locating dowels

[Wheezy]

Hopefully because I have to change my seal while I am changing the water pump as the oil pump seal is weeping too

[murrayis]

Because Wheezy, Its a good excuse to upgrade the pump to a high flow pump but having second thoughts now as I don;t really want to have to pull the sump off while the engine is in the car.

[Wheezy]

Ah yes, missed that part.

Could always drop the subframe and have the engine held up by a block and tackle, dodgy but it will work.

[murrayis]

Wheezy, is that a nomination to do the work for me

[Wheezy]

Wheezy, is that a nomination to do the work for me

HAHAHA, f**k no!

Don't have the time or drive to do my own right now

Unless you wanna swap for my 20?