Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Buster. Ill try him again next set of tyres, but last time i got a price off him for the 540s they were like $10 cheaper each then the Dunlops. So was quoted something like $420 each for 235/45/17 (may have been 235/40/17)

Decided to stick wih Dunlops as i have nothing but praise for the guys who sell them in Sydney.

  • 2 weeks later...

has anyone used 540's in 16inch? say 225/50 on a std rim? Im wondering if they will perform better than a 17 or 18inch street tyre in terms of ->do you get sidewall flex/rolling on hard cornering as you would with a 16inch street tyre?

Im tempted in fitting them to std rims for track, as the 16in tyres seem heaps cheaper.

cheers

I've not used either 540s or 16" track tyres, but I do use dunlop d01js in 17s....and one of the major improvements in R tyres is less sidewall flex due to much stiffer sidewalls.....so, 16s should still be great. The only real improvement from low profile tyres eg 17s, 18s, is due to stiffer sidewalls.

Sly, i was (and will do when i need new tyres) going to do this on the stockers, but apparently the stocky rim is only 6" wide. It is more ideally suited to a 205/55 16 and they're available in 540s. They should hold on as well as a 17" when warm.

I'm guessing that of you run reasonable pressure you won't get much roll.

205's eh? sounds a bit small but if they are cheap it would be ok! do you know what these can be had for ronin?

are std rims only 6 inch wide? i thought maybe 6 1/2... ive got 225/50 street tyres on stockies that look fine, do bridgestone make 225/50 16 540's?

cheers!

Yes they do make 225/50/16 as it is this size that my boss uses on his vn comodore race car.

I know you guys are talking about circuit racing but how would these tyres go for drag racing?

With 200rwkw in an r32 using 245/40/18s with about 50 % tread iam having big traction problems and cannot get my times down to where they should be.

My plan is for when i go to the creek in about a month to fit 2 540s (used ones from the race car) to my stock rims to go on the back using about 20 psi in them.

Will this improve my launches ect.... ???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...