Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi gang,

as per: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161511

as some of you may or may not know i am trying to port and get the RB26 PFC working on the rb20 and rb25.

the main issue i can see with the rb25 is that VCT is not supported.

VCT is switched on aroudn 1800rpm and off at 4700rpm by the stock ECU and the RB25 PFC.

i have tried with my 25 PFC turning VCT off at 1900rpm (that is, only have it on for 100rpm) and the car was a pig to drive.

lag city and it felt like it was as flat as a tack to drive around.

so my known working solutions are as follows;

1) use jaycar controller / type of system

this involves a 3rd party device to be built and tested / setup

its manual and would involve some time, each customer would need to buy one and set it up to retain stock VCT control

2) dont do anything and leave as is

this would leave the car boggy / laggy and gutless. can we do something else to make it "normal" without VCT?

can we hard wire the solenoid on or something?

3) required part of the 26 hacked 25 FC is exhaust cam gear

how does this negate not having VCT, i know it replaces the physical cog but does it make it drive the same and take away the boggy/laggy feeling?

how does it achieve this, as far as i can see aftetrmarket exhaust cam gear just lets you dial in forward/backward, does that then negate VCT ?

any suggestions/ideas would be great

i wanted the ported FC to be plug and play, that is a customer buys or gets a 26 PFC

plugs in my custom loom, makes some changes on the hand controller and its ready to go

it idles normally, runs like factory 25 PFC and they can fang around or head to their tuner

if they have to use the jaycar box it requires them (or me) to build the box, set it up, test it etc

and they would have to instlal it onto their loom

my 26 FC is on the way from japan so it shouldnt be long (a few days before i test it)

good news is it looks like rb20 customers should have it easy as theres no VCT needed or other trickery

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167846-request-for-help-no-vct-on-r33-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Paul

I heard that Apexi are working on a replacement chip for R33 Power FC's because the damand is so high so we may see them readily available again in the near future...

I heard that Power FC's are still available for RB25's brand new but are more expensive... If anyone wants one new they can call Turbotechnics on 0249565466 who orders them Directly and are still available just a little more expensive because they are buying these NEC chips from wherever they can and are paying a higher price for them.

The info i get from this guy is allways very reliable but you never know i guess... Maybe the Rb25 PFC is not in such a great shortage after all?? this hype may settle down shortly...

Edited by Guilt-Toy

yeah well doesnt anyone wonder where people are buying the brand new RB25 ecu's and putting them on ebay ?? where are they getting them from?

I dont think someone purchased 2000 of them because they knew this shit was going to go down.

There may be delays on orders because they come from Japan when they are made but they are still being exported.

Hey Paul

I heard that Apexi are working on a replacement chip for R33 Power FC's because the damand is so high so we may see them readily available again in the near future...

I heard that Power FC's are still available for RB25's brand new but are more expensive... If anyone wants one new they can call Turbotechnics on 0249565466 who orders them Directly and are still available just a little more expensive because they are buying these NEC chips from wherever they can and are paying a higher price for them.

The info i get from this guy is allways very reliable but you never know i guess... Maybe the Rb25 PFC is not in such a great shortage after all?? this hype may settle down shortly...

yeah its true, even the AP engineering stuff is available if the customer orders quantity. The gear is all there but due to production costs they will only make stock they are readily selling, they do no want to be producing stocks to sit on shelves. At the moment they are producing to fill orders and until the orders warrant production of significant quantities the "discontiued" ones will stay that way.

Edited by URAS

the exhaust cam gear doesn't replace VCT. VCT is only active on the inlet cam. think of it like an adjustable cam gear with 2 settings (1. response, 2 top end), but it can switch between them. so it gives you the benefit of an adjustable cam gear (again inlet only here) without the compromise. the reason people may say that fitting an exhaust cam gear makes up for no VCT is that they both have a similar affect on performance. but ideally you want BOTH.

it just seems weird that the 25 is a pig with the VCT turned off... you would think there would only be a very small seat-of-the-pants difference... barely noticeable... afterall the 26 seems fine and its usually got another 100-200kgs to lug around... weird

Yeah.....

They got 10 in last week and had 15 on order so they are comming into the country directly from Apexi.

yeah its true, even the AP engineering stuff is available if the customer orders quantity. The gear is all there but due to production costs they will only make stock they are readily selling, they do no want to be producing stocks to sit on shelves. At the moment they are producing to fill orders and until the orders warrant production of significant quantities the "discontiued" ones will stay that way.
hi gang,

as per: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161511

as some of you may or may not know i am trying to port and get the RB26 PFC working on the rb20 and rb25.

the main issue i can see with the rb25 is that VCT is not supported.

VCT is switched on aroudn 1800rpm and off at 4700rpm by the stock ECU and the RB25 PFC.

i have tried with my 25 PFC turning VCT off at 1900rpm (that is, only have it on for 100rpm) and the car was a pig to drive.

lag city and it felt like it was as flat as a tack to drive around.

so my known working solutions are as follows;

1) use jaycar controller / type of system

this involves a 3rd party device to be built and tested / setup

its manual and would involve some time, each customer would need to buy one and set it up to retain stock VCT control

2) dont do anything and leave as is

this would leave the car boggy / laggy and gutless. can we do something else to make it "normal" without VCT?

can we hard wire the solenoid on or something?

3) required part of the 26 hacked 25 FC is exhaust cam gear

how does this negate not having VCT, i know it replaces the physical cog but does it make it drive the same and take away the boggy/laggy feeling?

how does it achieve this, as far as i can see aftetrmarket exhaust cam gear just lets you dial in forward/backward, does that then negate VCT ?

any suggestions/ideas would be great

i wanted the ported FC to be plug and play, that is a customer buys or gets a 26 PFC

plugs in my custom loom, makes some changes on the hand controller and its ready to go

it idles normally, runs like factory 25 PFC and they can fang around or head to their tuner

if they have to use the jaycar box it requires them (or me) to build the box, set it up, test it etc

and they would have to instlal it onto their loom

my 26 FC is on the way from japan so it shouldnt be long (a few days before i test it)

good news is it looks like rb20 customers should have it easy as theres no VCT needed or other trickery

:action-smiley-069:

Paul

GTS-t VSPEC has been running an RB26 D-Jetro PGC on his RB25 over here in WA for quite some time now. He has retained the VCT and also made it adjustable (i.e. rev dependent switch point) by adding a third party switch (i.e. your option 1). I believe the point at which it activates makes significant difference to the power/torque curve.

Drop him a PM for further details :blink:

hey

ok things i know are that the 26 FC will work on the 25 and that we can make VCT work

its just how elegant is the solution for the customer. i wanted it to be plug and play for the end user

so they dont have to fiddle with external boxes etc. like for 1 dude its fine to have a jaycar/external box but for 100+ its a different story

Guilt-Toy your a legend !. Gave turbonetics a call, and they can get them new, like you said, they are using chips they can source and doing them by order in japan only. then sending them upon request. and if you get them thru turbonetics, u can get an australian warranty with them.

(oh yea, Quoted price was $1550. and a 4 week wait.

good work :blink: no rumor at all. problem solved for me. :action-smiley-069:

- CHeers

dale.

Edited by silverbulletR33

paulr33

Do a dyno power run with the VCT turnt on all the way to redline.

Then do a run all the way to redline with it turnt off.

Have a look at the huge difference. Where the two graphs cross, this is your switch over point.

Due to the amount of lag down low, this may well indicate, due to the cam movement, that it wants some more timing (And will most likely be able to be done without inducing ping due to the cam "profile" change)

You may want to leave it turnt off and attempt a change of the tune.

yeah i know about the changeover test point

my question is, can u tune the 25t and get the same results if you just unplugged say the VCT solenoid

that is, standard PowerFC, unplugged stock VCT, stock cams, stock turbo etc

like same midrange, power, response, feeling etc...

cos when i did my testing it drove like a pig

ie: unacceptable

if it can be tuned with the thing completely off, then im not worried at all

If the VCT is OFF when going for top end power, then you'll never get the same response (You've changed the VE characteristics of the engine down low)

So when unplugged you will never get the same low down response, BUT with a decent tune (More fuel/timing) it should see you getting back alot of your response.

When you change cam profiles, it adjusts the timing maps drastically, that is exactly what you've just done.

Most likely, down low, you might be running a touch leaner or so the o2 sensor might say.

Throw it on a dyno, and see what you can tune in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...