Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have my car in having a new exhurst fitted my mech says fitting the dumps is a waste of money and would need the turbos pulled off to do it. They are HKS dumps same as the full exhurst said it was only good for 5kws.

What do you think can dumps be fitted without pulling out the turbos?

Is it worth the gains or not?

I am after about 350kws

Thanks Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167964-r32-gtr-upgraded-dumps-or-not/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Change em. from memory (been a while) the rear turbo deosn't ahve to come out, but the front does. I saw a thread a while ago about doing it without removing the turbo.

ps: you'll be slapping yourself for not having the dumps changed when you got the turbos swapped :rant:

I have my car in having a new exhurst fitted my mech says fitting the dumps is a waste of money and would need the turbos pulled off to do it. They are HKS dumps same as the full exhurst said it was only good for 5kws.

What do you think can dumps be fitted without pulling out the turbos?

Is it worth the gains or not?

I am after about 350kws

Thanks Brad

To get around 350kw's you will need...cams...larger or Nismo type Afm's.....adjustable cam gears...A/M Turbo's...N1 or 2530's...computer...boost controller...

and a good tune....

Dumps are the least of your problems.....but with the above set up they will spool up the turbo alot quicker..ie less lag for you........

Cheers...

Oh the answer to your question...do not see why you need to remove the turbo's to fit the dumps(HKS)

Its not possible to get them off without atleast loosening off the turbos and manovering them around. I did a set today its not hard just time consuming and patience testing. Takes roughly half a day to do them.

Some aftermarket dumps can be removed with the turbos fitted but others cant and the OEM ones need to be removed to get the pipes off.

If your planning future mods that require engine removal like a sump baffle etc then save it for that time. If not then have them done with the engine in.

To get around 350kw's you will need...cams...larger or Nismo type Afm's.....adjustable cam gears...A/M Turbo's...N1 or 2530's...computer...boost controller...

and a good tune....

Dumps are the least of your problems.....but with the above set up they will spool up the turbo alot quicker..ie less lag for you........

Cheers...

Oh the answer to your question...do not see why you need to remove the turbo's to fit the dumps(HKS)

You really write some crap mate.

no you don't need cams. There are plenty of 350+ kw motors in vic that make as much midrange and top end without cams.

have you ever taken off the dumps? then how would you know that "do not see why you need to remove the turbos to fit"?

you could probably do it without the turbos coming off, if you've got monkey hands and have plenty of time to fcuk arse around.

The turbos on my car have been off twice - once to change the dumps, once to change the turbos. Both guys have told me it is next to impossible to work in there. There is a lot of swearing involved.

Please stop posting "advice" until you have some concrete evidence, not just your 'guess'.

You really write some crap mate.

no you don't need cams. There are plenty of 350+ kw motors in vic that make as much midrange and top end without cams.

have you ever taken off the dumps? then how would you know that "do not see why you need to remove the turbos to fit"?

you could probably do it without the turbos coming off, if you've got monkey hands and have plenty of time to fcuk arse around.

The turbos on my car have been off twice - once to change the dumps, once to change the turbos. Both guys have told me it is next to impossible to work in there. There is a lot of swearing involved.

Please stop posting "advice" until you have some concrete evidence, not just your 'guess'.

So Ronin...

If I had all these on his car...I should be pushing around 450rwkws?...great...remember we are talking RB26(GTR),,..not RB25(GT-ST)

So with dumps...a GTR can achieve 350rwkw's....good for the tuner that has boosted the thing to 2 Bar...and runs Nitro when he tunes his car.

As for the concrete evidence...read the RB26 stick...lol.....and then stop guessing yourself..

I am sick and tired of an attack on some-ones experience and knowledge in this Forum......

You have not told him any way of getting his power up ......or if the Dumps are a good add on.

You have never changed or installed turbo's...and the turbo's has been said earlier in this topic that it can be done with the turbo's on..but requires

lots of f%^king around(SO A DOUBLE POST).

So instead of being constructive...you have been destructive....

So Ronin...

If I had all these on his car...I should be pushing around 450rwkws?...great...remember we are talking RB26(GTR),,..not RB25(GT-ST)

So with dumps...a GTR can achieve 350rwkw's....good for the tuner that has boosted the thing to 2 Bar...and runs Nitro when he tunes his car.

Not having a crack.....but i think youve missed the point Ronin was making entirely.

sure you can fit dumps without removing the turbos. you can probably rebuild your engine without removing it from the car too, but that doesn't mean it's the way to go.

the fastest simplest way to fit dumps = turbos off. no question. trying to fit the dumps with the turbos still firmly attached to the manifolds will probably take nearly double the time if you just removed them in the first place.

sure you can fit dumps without removing the turbos. you can probably rebuild your engine without removing it from the car too, but that doesn't mean it's the way to go.

the fastest simplest way to fit dumps = turbos off. no question. trying to fit the dumps with the turbos still firmly attached to the manifolds will probably take nearly double the time if you just removed them in the first place.

:(

wtf you smoking tekin? I am simply saying that the turbos off is the easiest way.

Its a definate turbo out job! one cracked stud and your f**ked! tho bieng newer turbos i dont see this happeneing!

but it sure is alot easier to get all the nuts tight with the turbos out of the car!

i've done and watched it bieng done many times :(

I have my car in having a new exhurst fitted my mech says fitting the dumps is a waste of money and would need the turbos pulled off to do it. They are HKS dumps same as the full exhurst said it was only good for 5kws.

What do you think can dumps be fitted without pulling out the turbos?

Is it worth the gains or not?

I am after about 350kws

Thanks Brad

Brad, if we were talking about stock BNR34 dumps then maybe you could leave them unchanged but considering the power you are after I think it would be worthwhile switching to the HKS or other a/m dumps rather than your factory BNR32 items.

While there is some work fitting them, in the grand scheme of things you want as little restriction as possible so I would go for it.

Nick

upgrade them.

They are a shocking design. I left mine on as I ran out of money at the time and I needed the car back on the road. I did my best to port match them (they typically are mis-aligned flange wise) and clean them up. I took plenty of material out. It doesn't change much. My setup was group A turbos, they would still make over 300rwkw but, not as easy as having dumps on there.

No question if you upgrade them you will pick up way more than 5rwkw, try 15-20rwkw peak and lots extra all over the power curve, more so if you run big ass turbos.

As for cams, they offer very large power improvements on both Rb25 and Rb26 engines across the power curve when correctly setup. Nice to have if you can afford them. You will make more peak power but, more average power is what makes them so great, thats what makes a car fast.

Another lovely thread with stupid information from the usual suspect :D

But yeah.

If you can get a hold of dumps, then do it. If not... then just make do with what you have really.

They certainly arent going to hold you back :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...