Jump to content
SAU Community

How Can I Get Rid Of The Infamous R33 Gtst Axle Tramp?

NYTSKY
 Share

Recommended Posts

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

As alot of people know the R33 has a very annoying axle tramp off the line.I dont know if this has been covered before but how can i get rid of it?

Im getting a set of pineapples for the rear but surely this alone wont stop it.

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

Now this is close to my heart.I have asked this question a few times myself.I installed pinapples and this reduced it somewhat but was still almost the same.Replaced the springs and shocks with kings springs and much improved shocks but only a little better again.Still,a worth while improvement.Replaced the wheels with light weight ones and you guessed it,only a slight improvement.After spending what was now a few thousand dollars I was stopping the rear end from trying to rip itself out of the bushes so then replaced the bushes with whiteline ones and this was yet another step in the right direction.

So I went to some people in the hot rodding scene and found that they had great success with urathane diff mounting.This means the subframe as well.You see a solid diff is difficult to control due to it`s weight but an IRS has far more mounting points,each one of which has the potential to move under accelleration causing the tyres to bite then skip repeat,repeat etc. etc......My next step is to replace the subframe bushes with urathane and the diff mounts as well.I have a strong feeling this will eliminate axle tramp all together.I know CUBES did this so would be interested to hear if it affected his 32.HEY CUBES,you reading this?

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Now this is close to my heart.I have asked this question a few times myself.I installed pinapples and this reduced it somewhat but was still almost the same.Replaced the springs and shocks with kings springs and much improved shocks but only a little better again.Still,a worth while improvement.Replaced the wheels with light weight ones and you guessed it,only a slight improvement.After spending what was now a few thousand dollars I was stopping the rear end from trying to rip itself out of the bushes so then replaced the bushes with whiteline ones and this was yet another step in the right direction.

So I went to some people in the hot rodding scene and found that they had great success with urathane diff mounting.This means the subframe as well.You see a solid diff is difficult to control due to it`s weight but an IRS has far more mounting points,each one of which has the potential to move under accelleration causing the tyres to bite then skip repeat,repeat etc. etc......My next step is to replace the subframe bushes with urathane and the diff mounts as well.I have a strong feeling this will eliminate axle tramp all together.I know CUBES did this so would be interested to hear if it affected his 32.HEY CUBES,you reading this?

Thanks Gary atleast now i know what to tackle.Looks like ill be buying alot of urathane lol

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
Posted

Sydney kid, One day u have to come help me fix my axle tramp. Ive been trying for years to get rid of it to no avail. Been to suspension shops, tried different tyres, installed pineapples, and was about to change shocks and springs.

It just never wants to go away

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I replaced my subframe bushes and found axle tramp has reduced greatly and torque steer feeling through second gear has completely dissapeared; on the dyno the whole sub frame was moving around a hell of a lot.

Most of the time it doesn't axle tramp but when it does its now a light little thud not like the old BANG BANG BANG your going to break an axle bang. :S

The subframe bushes Improved axle tramp 10 fold. I am still on stock shocks and springs as almost everything aftermarket is lowered which I don't want. Minimum legal height here in SA is 360mm mine sits ~365mm with stock bits.

I'm considering a set of teins as they have the screw type heigh adjustment that can be adjusted to stock/legal height.

What about the traction rods? I had a look at mine and they do feel a 'tad' loose, possibly the bush is stuffed which causes tramp. Reading up on them 'apparently' traction rods in good nick prevent tramp?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Nisskid,

A mate of mine runs the bilsteins and they are still too low. Unfortunately he has recently been defected because it was too low. From memory the front was too low 10mm and rear 5mm.

If you look and ask everyone who's been defected and what for its almost always.. 1. too low 2. tint 3. too loud

I've almost been done for tint so I removed it on the spot. Height, even though it looks stock a tape measure was put to it.

Its simply not worth the hassle.

Are yours on the highest setting? Are you able to measure the front and rear heights?

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
Nisskid,

A mate of mine runs the bilsteins and they are still too low. Unfortunately he has recently been defected because it was too low. From memory the front was too low 10mm and rear 5mm.

If you look and ask everyone who's been defected and what for its almost always.. 1. too low 2. tint 3. too loud

I've almost been done for tint so I removed it on the spot. Height, even though it looks stock a tape measure was put to it.

Its simply not worth the hassle.

Are yours on the highest setting? Are you able to measure the front and rear heights?

rear sits on just 340, the fronts sit about 350, that is the reccomended setting but not the highest, i beleive there are 2-3 grooves above this one which are a bit under 10mm apart. i have the extra grooves but most are for lowering it further, if i put mine on the highest setting i reckon it would sit a bit above standard height which is with lowered springs. id talk to SK about it but pretty sure the bilsteins with extra grooves would be more than enough to keep standard height.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Where the rear end of the car, on a launch will basically "bounce" and is then hard to get the power down and at the drags, will ruin your pass basically!

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
Where the rear end of the car, on a launch will basically "bounce" and is then hard to get the power down and at the drags, will ruin your pass basically!

Is the bilstein setup that SydneyKid sells good/stiff enough to prevent this?

Do good grippy tires help prevent it too?

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

To be honest - I myself havent had much axel tramp issues in this car. My old VT LS1 commodore had major issues - was a biatch to drive :laugh:

Since I've had the syd kid group buy springs/shocks in my car Ive only done one night at WSID drags and had a little bit, but I think that was due to my "hard launch" (1 launch out of 5) - done a few motokharna's where you need to get a good launch for a good time - no a/t at all

Tyres - I guess? but Im not 100% sure - I used semis for the first time last weekend at DECA for a motokharna and had no issues

So in my case - 98% of the time - I havent had it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pez5
      ST Coilovers by KW SUIT Nissan Z33 Infinity G35 Coupe

      By pez5 · Posted

      PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • WMDC35
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...