Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SORRY FOR LATE REPLYS

how do you get it nice and big and round? what did you use to shape the sheet? im assuming u started with aluminium sheet?
looking at it, it was a half tube for the round section

hammer and doly or english wheel for the other bends ..

please correct me if im wrong though

its a half tube with sheet metal welded onto it, its welded on both sides so that i could remove the welds on the outside with out the plenum leaking

Wow, nice man! lets see some number when you get them. Noticable gains or what? if you ever start selling them i would buy one off ya. good job

i do sell them

wat 180 :S ?

the rb has found a new home in the engine bay of a 180sx

Edited by STR8E180
  • 3 weeks later...

ok so i was wondering about one of your plenums for my rb25/30 combo the main reason i want one is to solve the bonet clearance issues that the stock intake manifold has. ill be aiming for around 300rwkw and was just after a price and also was wondering does it use the stock throttle body and cable and also where does all the stuff like your acc valve (idle control) and the rest of that stuff go vacume hoses ect thanx in advance i will be looking at getting one in the near future so hope you can help.

  • 3 months later...

Saw you post this link in a thread. Do you actually have any real world results from cars. I have a std RB20 which needs a little help making a bit more power. Dont want to lose any mid range torque though...and my fear is moving away from the long std runners will hurt me in the mid range? Any experience with different RB20 setups? Im running a TD06-20G making 260rwkws on 18-19psi

^^^ as above, lets see some before & after dyno sheets showing no loss of midrange.

Shaun @ Boostworx has even seen a RIPS plenum hold back peak power over the stocker - so after hearing that i need real world results before money is parted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...