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Gtst Timing Belt Replacement


grigor

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Would any one experianced and that has done this before be interested in teaching me / helping me replace my timing belt and water pump? I have a suitable garage and tools minus the puller.

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There's 4 very good write ups with pictures on this site. Everything is in them.

Take your time and take mental pictures or physical ones of everything you haven't seen before or are unsure of as it will help when putting it back together.

have the correct tools handy. Get a balancer puller that uses the two m6 holes to pull it off.

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Melbourne, Northcote area. I have had a look at the step buy step procedure, I guess i am just not 100% in lining up the timing belt marks.

You'll be fine :) it's so simple. Wind it over and watch the cam marks and that they align, then check the crank. Done.

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Question, once I have aligned the the marks for inlet,exhaust and crank, i then remove the tensioner, once the tensioner is removed / released ,will the belt want to move the cams from the original set location because of the tension lost ? if so how is this avoided or rectified?

one other question, just to clarify, the harmonic balancer retaining bolt is L/H thread or R/H?

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Balancer bolt is normal thread. Righty tighty lefty loosey. There are a few ways to undo it.

Cams won't move, they're locked.

I'd advise looking at all Diys we have on this website and getting a good idea on how to do it.

Maybe someone here who is close to you can come and help too

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People tend to stuff up the tension, usually too much.

Definitely do camshaft seals, and crank seal.

Yep I did, I guess?.

The gates belt is a LOT stiffer than the genuine and dayco belt, so at the same tension of the original, the gates felt a little loose. I did it up a bit tighter and it whirres

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Just a quick question fellas,

I changed the timing belt on my r33 s2 det last night, all went reasonably well.. This morning i took if for a drive and every thing seemed fine until I entered the freeway and opened it up a bit, as load and pressure built up above 4.5-5 rpm + It seemed to bet a significant loss of power, now I would also like to mention that I have upgraded the turbo due to the turbo spitting it self the other day, the up grade was from standard - to a Garrett T3/T4 Hybrid A/C CHRA Conversion. (Car not tuned yet)?

is it a possibility the crank angle sensor could be 1-2 mm off even though i make it? or is it just running very rich etc..

I know this is not the right topic , a link to the correct topic would help or some insight would be appreciated.

Edited by Antek
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I don't know much about that turbo. But have been in a few skylines with upgraded highflows and bigger turbos without tunes and they are slow and shouldn't be driven hard until you get a tune.

Did you mark the cas before taking it off?

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Should check your timing with a light anyway because no mark will get it back to spot on. A small movement on the CAS is big in degrees, you could be up to 10' out? And that makes a huge difference as well, even 5 is easily noticeable.

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