Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so today i had my bin file from the CENTRAL 20 ECU looked at, and apparently it has no boost cut, and speed cut removed (knew that one) and 6900 rpm limit.

However what is happening, at 15 psi, the car feels like it is hitting a brick wall, and jolting, and then above 3500rpm takes of fine, no issues what so ever.

Below 12 psi, the car feels fine, a little retard posible but otherwise ok.

This ecu pulle 217 rwkw on my current setup, but over the past 4 months the car just has not felt right. I have done heaps of test for stuffed sensors and consults ect. and nothing there. Car usesd about one tak per 300 km in town.

The car developed a cold start issue, where as it started on 3 cylinders, cleared it throat, and then all 6 fire up. I have checked everything as per this post.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...820&hl=cold

Can somone tell me what i might need to look for.

I will get the car tested soon, but need some ideas in the mean time.

HELP ME, AGAIN. LOL>

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i had this issue when i tried a remap

i had a series 2 R33 and i got a s1 remap ecu and it ran like bozz

it was something about the MEC chip being the wrong one

sorry i cant be of much help. it was from a guy on the forums, tashi i think his name was

paul, wog's car's been working all this time. it's only now.

It sounds like it could be a spark issue like coilpacks or sparkies. I know you got splitos, but have you got new sparkies? what gap?

I remember reading a thread where people had problems with highboost and splitos. could be that?

plugs are relatively new, and gap is 1mm, i have had 0.8mm but made no differance, it is being a dog at low rpm not high, humm who knows, but it is certainly strating to piss me off.

oh yeah sorry Paul, the ecu has been in for ages and ran great, only last 4 months being crap.

Edited by WogsRus

Ok so i should have clarified eaven further.

The computer has been on the car for ages, and running with the SAFC II to bring the power up eaven more. The ECU is a generic one that is put out with Central 20 cars, so it uses all stock componenst and sensors, with new maps and so forht,

The car made in the current form, with Central 20 ecu and the SAFC II as per my sig 217 rwKw.

The car ran fine for agen but one hot day something went funcy, and every since it is hard to start cold, and the car feels the way it does.

The car WAS tuned in teh car with an SAFC II on a dyno, with perfect AFR's

The car was running fine for ages, say 6 months, only a recent thing.

Nothing has changes in the car mod wise.

DOES that clarify anything?

ok so i gapped the car down to .6mm gap and DAM it goes EAVEN WORSE. I mean below 4000rpm it's like a tracktor, the thing missfires and shit, compleat shit, and then bag wheel spin. I downloaded the rom and yeah i have no airflow limit, so the ecy should be fine.

What can couse missfire/splutering at low rpm.

This suxxxxxx.

Is it possible an airflow meter or a cam angle sensor.

Could it be a knock sensor?

HELP ME PLEASE

It'd say its probably the AFM, give it a decent clean and hopefully you'll see some improvement.

Otherwise the knock sensor could be faulty and making it run on the lower octane maps. Do you have a consult cable to check?

The plugs are 6's and are spot on to look at.

Yeah got consults, pickes up nothing. My voltage on the AFM at 750 rpm is 1.2V i think that is OK.

I did a log of the car this morning and noticed that as soon as it does this and goes funny, the oxygen sensor drops to zero and then bounces back then back to zero,

WHAT THE????

Probably just because its running so rich when it misses, if its faulty it shouldn't cause problems like that anyway. Nothing to lose, unplug it and see how you go for a day. It will run richer and use a lot more fuel at idle/cruise though.

have you checked your silicon hoses on your intercooler for small cracks or leaks?

i had this and the car flat spotted high in the rev range.

go around while the car is on and spray some detergent onto your silicon hoses and see if it bubbles up anywhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...