Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have this little problem with my 33 gtr where i get intermittent loss of power. Its stock standard not even an exhaust.

This is what i have discovered so far,

When i first start the car in the morning when its cold, it seems to be lacking a bit of response, but i dont push it, it just feels that way down at the low revs. Maybe thats what its meant to be.

Once the water temp gauge goes up to where it should be, the car feels good! the response and power is how it should be. But SOMETIMES after driving for a while like 30 mins plus, sitting in traffic here and there and when the oil temps are up to about 80C it feels like it is a bit hesitant to go at lower revs and it feels slower through the rev range too. Almost feels like it doesnt want to go for a second or so and then slowly the power comes on.

But then when i turn the car off for a while, come back after 20 mins drive it again and it feels like normal again, pulls hard and all. WHat the hell is going on?????? Can sometime tell me what it could be? Ignition timing hasnt been touched, plugs are correct too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169970-strange-problem-with-gtr/
Share on other sites

Next time it does it check the boost gauge to see if she boosts as normal, if it doesn't boost to normal I think I know what it is. If she boosts normal look at electrical stuff, like coil packs, plugs etc...

Its running the stock air box with a hks panel filter.

And the boost seems to be normal, it just doesnt want to pull as hard. Under say half throttle in 2nd gear around 2-4krpm it feels flat and laggy. But then i stop to get petrol, start it up a few mins later, its feels much better again.

My mech plugged it into a diagnostics thing and reckons ignition timing is ok. he also reckons the coils and sparkies are fine and he reckons the afm is ok too. He is kinda stumped too, but I havent realy been able to show him the problem properly as it is intermittent. He reckons it drives fine because he hasnt experienced the changes in performance.

He was suggesting a possible fuel pump problem?? could it be possible?

It sound like the ecu is seeing knock and then using the low octane ignition map to protect the engine. Turning off and on allows the hi octane map to be used.

I had a similiar problem on GTSt, it was detecting knock just off idle when at operating temp, try retarding the timing 2-3 degrees at the CAS.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a similar problem except mine's in a 32 Gtst with a RB26 convertion. At low rev's specialy in 1st and 2nd gear.

I go to take off and its like the turbos are straved or something, it will slowly boost up then drop out.

But if I take off on high revs, its fine.

Can't think of what the hell it could be.

My car has the same problem from the sounds of it. I'm running 1 bar boost (restrictor removed from standard setup) and all your standard mods. For me, the car drives perfectly for the first 10 mins or so, making 14psi or so. Then it hesitates for half a sec, becomes sluggish and will only boost to 7 psi, but it feels flatter than when the car was running that boost standard.

I can then turn off the car, restart it instantly and its nice and responsive again, making 1 bar again. It clearly electrical but i get no warning light on the dash to say somethings wrong and i cant figure it out. I figured either afm's or my boost solenoid? Sounds very similar to your dramas, probably the same item giving us greif.

Not sure what's going on there Phil.

I have never experienced that problem in mine.

In regards to driving it first thing in the morning when its cold, mine is very spluttery if it goes over 3k rpm. But as soon as its mildly warm its fine for the rest of the run (whether its a 5min or 5hr drive).

Hope you can find the problem, fix it and let us know for future reference!!

- Dave.

Not sure what's going on there Phil.

I have never experienced that problem in mine.

In regards to driving it first thing in the morning when its cold, mine is very spluttery if it goes over 3k rpm. But as soon as its mildly warm its fine for the rest of the run (whether its a 5min or 5hr drive).

Hope you can find the problem, fix it and let us know for future reference!!

- Dave.

Exactly the same things happens to mine when its cold. As soon as you hit abit of positive pressure it starts to splutter but when its up2 normal driving temp its fine.

That's normal for the stock ECU, mine used to be like that when it was cold in the morning, as soon as the water temp hits (can't remember) it switches from open to closed (or is it the other way around) mode... and it runs good/normal. When i switched to a PFC i don't have this anymore - but not like i fang it when cold anyway, so it makes no difference.

As for driving it for 30mins and then it dropping boost from 14 to 7, there is something wrong there.

  • 2 weeks later...
That's normal for the stock ECU, mine used to be like that when it was cold in the morning, as soon as the water temp hits (can't remember) it switches from open to closed (or is it the other way around) mode... and it runs good/normal. When i switched to a PFC i don't have this anymore - but not like i fang it when cold anyway, so it makes no difference.

As for driving it for 30mins and then it dropping boost from 14 to 7, there is something wrong there.

Recently in the colder temps i noticed it is happening more often like in the mornings and nights when its like 5 degrees or so. Warmer days seem to be ok asnd doesnt happen as much.

Strange thing is, it doesnt do it when i thrash it, it seems to happen under low revs and low boost etc, low throttle. Sometimes I give it the fang up to 14psi and its fine still. I also disconnected the boost solenoid so it runs 7psi but still does it. So its not a high boost issue. Something to do with too much air flow, but why? grrr

I have a PFC coming to im going to throw it on the dyno to see whats going on and hopefully fix it or at leats know what to fix.

  • 5 months later...

I recently replaced my r32 gtr afm's with r 33 gtr afm's and since then it has been messing up at low rev's as well, same business, unless i give it to it (which i won't because it's cold) it feels damn slow and damn laggy.

Once it heats up it's all fine though

I regapped my plugs from 1.0 to .8 at the same time i put the new afm in, im gonna try re-gap my plugs to 1.0 again tonight and see if it makes a diff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...