Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm running the Alcon Advantage big brake kit on my R32, I believe they come with DS2500 pads, and they seem fantastic on the street, but I'm yet to try them on the track......I'm a little concerned they won't be good enough for the track (I tend to be hard on brakes by trail braking)

So what would be a good stage up from these? DS3000s?

I don't mind only using them for track days and putting the DS2500s back in for road.....any problems with doing this?

I would like something with a bit more initial bite, and like a firm pedal.

What power does the car have, the weight of the car. And what tyres and times at what tracks do you run.

DS2500s are not too bad and with 365mm rotors they would perform reasonably well...up to a point of course.

Also , with a brake setup like that depending on what your answers are to the above questions there is no reason why you cant havea pad that works well on the street and track

What power does the car have, the weight of the car. And what tyres and times at what tracks do you run.

DS2500s are not too bad and with 365mm rotors they would perform reasonably well...up to a point of course.

Also , with a brake setup like that depending on what your answers are to the above questions there is no reason why you cant havea pad that works well on the street and track

Hi Roy, The car is 630hp at the wheels, and I will be running some used 9" wide slicks that I can get from a local V8 class we have in NZ so there is plenty of grip

My local track is Ruapuna (Powerbuilt Raceway in Christchurch) and it does have a decent long straight, but has a very twisty infield that makes it a bit hard on brakes.

  • 4 weeks later...

Advice on new Pads (and braking issue).

R32 GTR - 330 awkws

ABS

Brembo Calipers off an r33 GTR V (fully refurbed by PBR)

New DBA4000 wiper sloted rotors

New HEL Braided lines

New BM57 (match calipers 17/16")

New 600FF fluid

New Bendix Ultimate pads (absolute shite, spongy as and I don't know why).

Edit: Pedal doesn't reach the floor and neither is it hard as a rock. Just SPONGY.

I need to feel the brakes and I'm nervous when I use them as pulling up is a task @ 80-100+ kmph. It stops but just no where fast enough and without feeling like stopping.

Bled 5 times (by 3 different shops, last time pressure bled. Changed fluid 3 times, No Vac leaks, no brake fluid leaks, valve works. ABS works and sensors fine, Booster is working. All tested time and time again.

Correct bleed order followed, including ABS system.

So now I'm changing the pads F+R. Trying to achieve better feel and better stopping.

Spirited street and country driving and hoping to track 4 times a year. if I can be confident it will slow/stop!!

So questions.

  1. Will changing pads make a difference to feel and stopping power (it's very pedestrian feel at the moment :( )
  2. What pads recommended based on above info and
  3. Anyone recommend adjusting the push rod and/or pedal ?

and the big question - What da fuq is wrong (no it aint me :P)

  • Like 1

Advice on new Pads (and braking issue).

and the big question - What da fuq is wrong (no it aint me :P)

Hey mate,

In short, the pads are your problem and new ones will change the feel and stopping power. Bendix ultimate should never be fitted to a car as heavy and powerful as yours ;)

I have DS2500s on my 32r and even they have the same issue to a lesser extent than you.

On my old car I became accustomed to using race pads at all times, once you get used to race pads it feels like you cant stop when switching back.

At the moment im choosing between Ferodo DS Uno (replacement for DS3000) or some Endless PC35. If the were the same price I would choose Endless for sure, but the DS Uno are $269 and PC35 around $420 from local shops in my pad shape.

Thanks mate - appreciate the response.

I'm hopping it is the pads and maybe poor bedding in by me.

Putting on Project Mu's HC+ early next week. Likely overkill for what I need and hoping they run ok on the street as well as the track.

I Didn't know about the squeal these pads make until after purchase. So going to have to get the Anti Squeel shims. Hopefully wont be too bad.

  • Has anyone heard of bleeding GTR brakes with engine running ?
  • Has anyone heard of bleeding GTR brakes with engine running ?

No problem! Given your brakes have been bled a few times I doubt mistakes would have been made every time.

Im sure the HC+ will fix the problem but I have heard those pads squeal badly, hence why I would rather just go for a full race pad rather than a street/track pad that squeals anyway :)

Btw in case you are used to non ABS Nissan brakes, all the ABS equipped cars do feel heaps spongier in general. Because your new pads will have heaps more bite it will cover this up a bit.

Im going to try out the PC35s on a mates car tomorrow before making up my mind.

yes ABS so likely part of my concern also

post back and give us a view on PC35's if you get them please.

I went for a drive in my mates car with the PC35s but wasnt able to get them hot (light car, big brakes, urban driving!) they felt very aggressive when cold and squealed heaps, very similar to the DTC-60s I used to have on my old car. I have driven another car with the PC35s and they felt great but not sure if its comparable since that was mid engine.

Interestingly, I also tried another car yesterday which had DS2500 (same as mine now) and they felt way more aggressive, im pretty sure my current 2500s are stuffed since they feel nothing like they should. I overheated DS2500s in the past and they still worked fine but fell off off the backing plate in fiery chunks so I cant imagine what has happened to this set lol.

  • 3 weeks later...

So i went ahead and ordered a set of Endless N35s which are meant to be slightly less aggressive and more progressive than the PC35 however handle the same heat (around 800 deg). Should have them in around 3 weeks.

So i went ahead and ordered a set of Endless N35s which are meant to be slightly less aggressive and more progressive than the PC35 however handle the same heat (around 800 deg). Should have them in around 3 weeks.

Plan failed, cant get the right pads from Japan and dont want to pay $430 locally so im looking into other options.

In case anyone needs new pads, Nengun is doing an awesome deal:

http://www.nengun.com/project-mu/brake-pad-campaign

Buy a front set get a rear set free until mid June.

I've ordered some Project MU RC09 Club Racer Pads front and rear from Marty at Motorsport Brakes, they are a new compound from the same stable as the PMC pads the V8 Supercars use.

They are a stage up from from the HC+ pads so should be good, hopefully still ok for the road too.

So i'm looking at doing my brakes at some stage soon, wanting to get DBA 4000 Series T3 rotors all round. Pads wise i'm looking at EBC Redstuffs. Anyone have any experience with this setup?

I liked the look of the Project MU deal above too, quite cheap, but wouldn't have a clue what "series" to go for. Car is street only, no track at all.

So i'm looking at doing my brakes at some stage soon, wanting to get DBA 4000 Series T3 rotors all round. Pads wise i'm looking at EBC Redstuffs. Anyone have any experience with this setup?

I liked the look of the Project MU deal above too, quite cheap, but wouldn't have a clue what "series" to go for. Car is street only, no track at all.

Hey mate, Red stuff is probably too much for street only. If you dont drive the car hard on the street then I would say go for a less aggressive pad. I have had bad experience with red stuff so generally wouldn't recommend EBC but for street only purposes im sure they would do the job.

For a street only driven car I would bother with getting pmu pads from japan, there is decent cheaper alternatives locally like EBC, Ferodo, QFM etc.

Thanks for that mate. It's interesting that when you look at any of the common performance workshops around and what they stock, none stock EBC pads. Either PMU, Ferodo or Bendix. Makes me think the EBC hard to get, unproven or not that good on rotors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
×
×
  • Create New...