Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm a bit off topic here, but what the hell...

2 years ago i ditched the rb20 for a 25 and was a very happy boy. Admittedly my rb20 was shagged.

There are only 2 rb20's i know of that make me wonder if i made the right decision. Roy's with his stock bottom end and 260 odd rwkw and Legend01's built 2.1L with 300 plus and silly good response/midrange considering the size of the turbo.

Back on topic, get the car you like. If you like r32's or cef's then there are people out there doing pretty good things with rb20's, or you could go a 25det conversion. If you like 180's, then don't, whatever you do, put an rb in it. I hang around with way too many s chassis owners and i can tell you that up to 230rwkw on a stock bottom end sr is easily acheivable and a hell of a lot of fun with excellent midrange power and torque. If you buy the right car with the right mods on it to start with you will be able to do a hell of a lot with it before you spend your way through 23k

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you wanted to buy a car just to sound good then buy a cheap aussie V8 with a big exhaust.

Personally i buy cars to perform, not for the sound.

Was a joke :kiss: Just cant stand the sound of them.

If I was to buy a car on sound of a car would be a massive - cammed ls1, so you can see it hasnt influenced my decision :D Especially as I use to own an Ls1!

Whos to say teh SR is so great? weak rocker arms ... 4cyl motor...

they may be one hell of a good motor... but at the end of the day why diss the RB20???

it makes more power than an SR stock...

its more reliable... 6cyl meaning it can handle larger amounts of power alot better than the SR... so reliability wise id be choosing the RB ... in fact i did :kiss:

my RB is in the process for 300rwkw... in my 1via...

and best part of all $600 to replace a motor... swap mods across yourself... way better option IMO ...

Love the RB in my Sil...

But we really want to know where you can get a 300rwkw capable rb bottom end for $600 :D

You will laugh, provided you can get a turbo to do it and not rev over 7,500rpm i think the engine would take it. I have often thought about throwing away my 20G and going T67-25G. Just for shits and giggles, as im curious to see how it goes myself. My thinking is it would probably be ok. Look at Ad4m, he is a nutter, running 24psi through a std RB20 with the same turbo as me to make 282rwkws. Thats getting close to 300rwkws and he has been running flat 12 sec 1/4 mile times in a manual 4 dr R32.

So i dont think its the 300rwkws that will hurt the RB20 (std bottom end). Its the power delivery and the need to rev the thing to well over 8,000rpm to get a good power band. Much easier to put forged pistons in it and run 24psi on a smaller turbo, something like a GT30R or a TD06-20G will bag you between 280-300rwkws. Do the same thing on a std bottom end and you are likely to get plenty of fun out of the motor. But based on what i have seen i think that may be pushing too hard from a std motor. Time will tell, i plan on upping boost to 1.65bar when i get the new gearbox and suspension in. Will thrown it back on the dyno and see what power it makes with the extra 5psi. If it makes 285rwkws or thereabout then thats what i will run.

If it makes that power for 5-6 track days then that will make up my mind to just stick with the std RB20, just be happy with 20psi and 260-270rwkws :)

i gotta say i never bothered to reply to this gay thread...

...but i love the rb20? i don't get why everyone bags it out?

i see no problem with it, mine's an rb20de+T and it runs sweetly i wouldn't change it to an SR for the world somply cos i just think everyone nutrides the SR for no good reason!

Whos to say teh SR is so great? weak rocker arms ... 4cyl motor...

they may be one hell of a good motor... but at the end of the day why diss the RB20???

it makes more power than an SR stock...

its more reliable... 6cyl meaning it can handle larger amounts of power alot better than the SR... so reliability wise id be choosing the RB ... in fact i did :)

my RB is in the process for 300rwkw... in my 1via...

and best part of all $600 to replace a motor... swap mods across yourself... way better option IMO ...

Love the RB in my Sil...

Well we have what i would consider the perfect 300+rwkw onevia... super responsive... loves to rev....makes a super lazy 312rwkw on literally std wastegate pressure... big dollar suspension.... but it still sucks to fang round a track compared to the built SR that proceeded it, dont get me wrong the power is nice but the package is not, it is handicapped by the weight over the front wheels.

Remmeber this post is about whether a rb20 in a s series is a good idea... i cant think of one unless the car was CA18DE to start with.

RB20 is good....rb20+s series chassis= poo...

Remmeber this post is about whether a rb20 in a s series is a good idea... i cant think of one unless the car was CA18DE to start with.

RB20 is good....rb20+s series chassis= poo...

agreed^^ f.y.i the cars that my mates rb20 went up against had tomei cams,t28 steel wheel turbo's on close to 20psi some of them with power fc,z32 etc nizmo 740 injectors, << that was one particular car. my mates car has stock standard rb20, microtech ecu, r34 neo turbo on 16psi,fmic etc the usual stuff and made more power, lets get off the sr20 love boat for a secoend and realise that the rb20 can be a good thing..

Is starting or ending a sentence with 3 dots a new fad? Or does it strengthen an argument? Let me try ;) I feel the need to fit in...

Comparing stock to stock is irrelevant as the engine will have bolt ons...mod for mod is where it's at as dead 32 has indicated with his example...

Though i'm pretty certain cubes is right about the rb20 having higher peak torque (when stock)...

nah, the dots don't work for me. :)

Edited by BHDave
Is starting or ending a sentence with 3 dots a new fad? Or does it strengthen an argument? Let me try ;) I feel the need to fit in...

nah, the dots don't work for me. :)

:nyaanyaa:

Actually the reason is, because we are reading and not actually hearing another person talk, it simulates a person pausing for a moment during his sentence. This pausing can indicate the person is thinking during his sentence. Or alternatively, it can indicate an unfinished sentence.

This can be due to the person typing having either:

1. Further thoughts on the matter but not typing them.

2. Not knowing what else to say/type or is still thinking.

3. Leaving his sentence open to someone else to complete, or in other words, leaving a window open for the next person to continue on on the same thought.

Eg. Little Johnny yelled out to his father "But dad I......but I didn't.......I think I didn't.......maybe I did do it."

Or

"If Johnny did do it, maybe it was because he wanted to, and for no other reason..."

I hope that makes things easier to understand :domokun:

Ok kids that's our English lesson for today.

Anyway back on topic. SR20 vs RB20....:cheers:

Edited by KeyMaker

Actually, come to the SAU drad day at Heathcote next weekend (sat) and lets line them up. I dont care who is quickest, it will be fun to line up the cars and have a laugh at GTR owners munching gearboxes, R32 GTSt owners crying about nursing gearboxes and R33 owners complaining about wheelspin the whole track with only 180rwkws :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...