Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 539
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

full boost is in the high 3k 3600-3800 i don't know why it looks that way on the dyno sheet but its way earlier than 5k.

also for every ones interest my mod to the air box is real dam good dyno run with the box and without was the same,we took the filter out and ran it and put it back in and it was the same power.

so my gamble was 110% right.

Edited by WARLORD

Ah ok, thats interesting.

The dyno is indicating a powerband from 120-180kmh, so 1/3 of the rev range (roughly). If you were to do it basically 8200/3 = 2733, x 2 = 5466. So the sheet is saying its on power at 5500 if its revving to 8200.

Is it possible that graph is for a lighter ramp rate or something like that?

on the ecu maps its set a 9000rpm as i have just looked at the tune so i have NFI why or what id love to really tell you what i think at the moment its easier if i just pm you about things i also have haltech reviewing everything as we speak online.

yes you are correct 4820rpm full boost of 23 psi the build up is so fast that you could swear its much earlier its tuned in ve mode (volumetric efficiency tuned)which is new to me.

That's good power for 98. I'm guessing its on full pelt about 5k? When does it start to get urgent?

Edited by WARLORD

Your setup is screaming for E85 Nick, that turbo is capable of making big numbers for its size.

I think 35R size turbos and bigger are wasted on setups that run moderately low boost levels. Chasing response is not really a goal anymore and you will only get frustrated doing so.

Very nice power but I am so far fairly disappointed with the lag, feeling reasonable considering how late the turbo comes on is more of a credit to the rest of the setup in spite of as opposed to thanks to the turbo. Unless there is a setup issue responsible of course, that is definitely laggier than just would have expected!

i think its probably normal for a gtx of that size, my gtx3076 on 98 was a late turbo, 18psi at 4000rpm but probably 4400ish til the back tires broke free.

E85 and more boost helped alot, but would do on most turbo's anyway.

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Very nice power but I am so far fairly disappointed with the lag, feeling reasonable considering how late the turbo comes on is more of a credit to the rest of the setup in spite of as opposed to thanks to the turbo. Unless there is a setup issue responsible of course, that is definitely laggier than just would have expected!

disappointed nar its not that bad it really doesn't feel laggy honestly has anyone else had there car tuned on ve cos ive been in cars with lag but this feels different it could be set up.in the top end you see the torque drop of it was explained to me that its cos of the cams need to be bigger tuning in volumetric efficiency calculates the amount of air that can flow throw the engine and cos the head is ported the cams are my restriction ..............true or not i have NFI..lol thats the only set up issue that i can think of

That's odd, its on fairly late. Yet if it feels like its on much earlier I'm guessing it actually has good pull before being on boost?

its hard to explain it does not feels as it looks or sounds buy the dyno or the full boost by 4800 i need to do a vid on the car

If the efficiency of the engine drops off your VE numbers will tend to flatten out and sometimes run backwards.

That torque curve says it all. Add some more boost if you have a decent controller with rpm correction at the point where the torque curve falls over (150km/h). Power will keep climbing and torque curve will stay flatter.

Edited by Shane_954

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...