Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

split front dump, into an unknown full 3 inch system straight through to a rear HKS super dragger. (howler!!)

haha got a sound clip..

gay i know.. but i wanted to hear what it sounded like out of the car, as im the only one who drives it :D

Edited by jake33

3inch coby extractor no cat small 3inch resonator, pipe then comes out along my sill to a 3inch straight flow muffler which ends in front of my rear wheel mean as !!!!

Edited by STLKHR

current system: Stock dump front and cat.. to 3" "apex" Exhaust. Complete with cracks and leaks, it is so busted that the internals of the muffler are coming out.

Observe photo.

jasmaplate.jpg

DSC01251-1.jpg

System waiting to go on..

Stainless steel batmbl split dump front pipe, into stainless stell 3.5" straight through exhaust with an CV (but not electric cable controlled) and no Resi. Lucky there's a muffler though..

Fullpipe.jpg

And now in the market looking for manifold and external gate....

full 4.25 inch with a 5.5 inch cannon in the rear, no cats (not necesary here) just a huge cannon in the rear with 5.25 exit diameter. and not to forget in the front the 60mm wastegate screamer into atmo. the car is deep noted till the turbo kicks in, after that its pure hell 124dB in the cabin with the windows open.

Mines a custom 3.5 inch dump to a 3' in 5.5'body 3' out magic cat. 3 inch piping to rear cannon 7' body 6' tip

no that loud in car really growly down low, sounds awesome outside

sound clip :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mw29efACWYY

Xforce 3" stainless steel dump/front pipe, 3" mild steel decat pipe, HKS silent high power stainless steel catback.

Sounds awsome, not to loud/drony when cruising but really opens up at about 4000rpm.

full 4.25 inch with a 5.5 inch cannon in the rear, no cats (not necesary here) just a huge cannon in the rear with 5.25 exit diameter. and not to forget in the front the 60mm wastegate screamer into atmo. the car is deep noted till the turbo kicks in, after that its pure hell 124dB in the cabin with the windows open.

haha, I'd love to hear that.

full 4.25 inch with a 5.5 inch cannon in the rear, no cats (not necesary here) just a huge cannon in the rear with 5.25 exit diameter. and not to forget in the front the 60mm wastegate screamer into atmo. the car is deep noted till the turbo kicks in, after that its pure hell 124dB in the cabin with the windows open.

haha

soundcliporban!!!

jk

sounds like a real doosey, farken awesome.

Edited by Oblivion

ill try to record it with my cam and post it up, but in my country we dont have fast internet so uploadung the clip will be a pain in the ass. If you are familiar with audio competition then you know the meter that they hang on you windshield to measure the sound output of yours subs. a friend owns one of those devices and he sat with me one day and asked if he could measure the sounds pressure on the windshield. i tiold him go ahead beacuse its impossible to have a conversation when pushing the car full throttle. we set it up and on full boost it was 124 db, mind you guys that i run a T04Z along with a monster exhaust that has to scrape evry friggin speedbump in my country, the best part is the wastegate when the eninge hits 10k and the turbo is screamin full revs. its orgasmic pleasure :P:;):D:D:D:D

hks super dragger 3.5" catback, xforce hi flow cat, aftermarket front pipe & xforce dump pipes - r32 gtr

my old r33 gtst had, kakimoto n1 3.5" catback, xforce hi flow cat, nismo front pipe, hks dump.

How loud is it?

I have the same cat-back with stock front and stock cat, It's a bit quiet for my liking..

Race car= 80mm Trust full titanium cat back (no cat) i wanted the 90mm but after dno testing it made the same power as the twin 3" open pipes anyway so i left it. One gripe is they are a bit quiet probaly 100-odd db....

the street car run's a Trust PeII

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...